Castle Serenity Pellet Stove - Stove shuts down as it goes into Heating mode - STILL AN ISSUE after installing new Interface Module & exhaust fan

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Matt D

New Member
Dec 6, 2022
4
Hedgesville WV
Nagging issue has me at wits end (Serenity Model 12327 ) Stove shuts down as it goes into Heating mode
Called their Helpdesk multiple times and worked thru diagnostics and stuff with them
Received and installed the new exhaust motor This is after installing a new Interface module. The motor starts up a lot quieter, but again the SAME RESULT..!!. Same result - stove begins to shut down when exiting Ignite mode, and entering Heating mode.
Does anyone have any recommendations? We've focused on making sure there are no leaks, we checked the Vacuum Switch, and installed two new parts per their recommendation, all with the same result stated above

Steps we took:
Installed the new exhaust motor today - went thru startup - same result
Installed the Interface Module - ran diagnostics, startup etc - same result
WE bypassed the Vacuum Switch, and the result is still the same...!
Troubleshooting steps already taken:
1) Cleaned auger, feeder = works fine
2) Cleaned vents, ashpan, firebox, etc = looks good
3) Checked front door and other areas of stove for leaks = looks good
4) OLD Exhaust motor/fan - checked and cleaned = looks okay (but we replaced anyway with the one I installed today)
5) Vacuum switch - checked/tested to see if switch works - looks like it
6) Per user manual trouble shooting guide, ran diagnostics:
A) All elements work EXCEPT for:
b) When I test the exhaust fan, the vacuum does not come on successfully
c) per online help, we bypassed the vacuum switch, and the stove still shut down when in Heating mode

Help I am wit's end on what to do - thank you...!
 
Have you tried switching to the secondary proof of fire switch
 
Have you tried switching to the secondary proof of fire switch
Yes - a few times - also the same result -
I am ordering a new 'Ribbon' (connector between the IM and the control panel) to see if that is the issue, but I'm concerned that that might not be the issue either - what is confounding is that we have bypassed the vacuum switch in testing several times, but again the same result .This stove has not been too heavily used over the last 3 years, so the box and front door panel etc all are in good shape..
 
The secondary proof of fire switch could also be bad. Just because it is not hooked up, it is sitting there in the heat, opening and closing all the time. Try jumpering it for a test.
Castle had a few models of bad or poor switches.
 
Thanks for the input - I jumped via using a paper clip for the two connectors - using that method, I couldn't get the stove to initiate the start-up process. The exhaust fan kicked on, and the blower kicked on, but nothing else happened.
At this point (quite frustrating, but still determined) - any other ideas?
 
Ah, just noticed this--
b) When I test the exhaust fan, the vacuum does not come on successfully
Now I know they have good phone support for their units, but perhaps this is not getting across. I see where there have been stoves "losing" signal, from the vacuum switch to the module where it plugs into. They list the small harness separately, in the most common parts , so might be a thing. I would suspect a poor/intermitten connection where this plugs to the module. Probably poor connections on the small pins, or just they got a bad batch of terminals. You could try to jumper vac. switch, at those 2 pins on the module, but that might be hard to do if you don't have assorted small termianals to make a jumper. Or you could remove it, and try to bend terminals with a pin or such, to give them more tension. Or just order a new harness, it looks very cheap to buy. Or/and call them again, and run all this by them.
 
Ah, just noticed this--
b) When I test the exhaust fan, the vacuum does not come on successfully
Now I know they have good phone support for their units, but perhaps this is not getting across. I see where there have been stoves "losing" signal, from the vacuum switch to the module where it plugs into. They list the small harness separately, in the most common parts , so might be a thing. I would suspect a poor/intermitten connection where this plugs to the module. Probably poor connections on the small pins, or just they got a bad batch of terminals. You could try to jumper vac. switch, at those 2 pins on the module, but that might be hard to do if you don't have assorted small termianals to make a jumper. Or you could remove it, and try to bend terminals with a pin or such, to give them more tension. Or just order a new harness, it looks very cheap to buy. Or/and call them again, and run all this by them.
Thanks Mt Bob - I went back and checked the connections, and the harness - still the same result - They have been somewhat helpful when I call(ed), but at this point, they suggest replacing w/new parts. I then install them with the same result. So far, the Interface Module and Exhaust Motor, and now I am awaiting a new ribbon (that connects the IM and Control Panel), and am awaiting a new Vacuum Switch...Will install those, check the connections, and if that doesn't work. I will order a new harness per your suggestion. If all of that doesn't work, I may consider buying a new control panel. I have checked and rechecked (over many times) for leaks, and all looks good there. I am wondering if the control panel may have an issue, but you can't test that...