cdw fa264ccl catalytic bypass gasket

[raybonz]

For some reason I thought this stove had a gasket there at one time however I looked and don't even see a trace of one ever being there.. I do not even see a place to install a gasket yet the manual mentions one but there are no pictures of one in place.. The seal from what I can tell is metal to metal and seems to work OK.. Can anyone shed some light on this matter for me? Something tells me the gasket they mention may be used in this area but not for the damper itself..

Ray

 

[raybonz]

I posted this Oct. 20 and not one reply? What I need to know is there a gasket where the catalytic damper contacts the stove when running through the cat?

Thanks!

Ray

 

[certified106]

Mine definitely has a gasket there and i replaced it this year. There isn't much of a groove there for the gasket and it can be hard to see if the gasket material is gone. Clean it really good and hopefully you will be able to see the outline where it lays. I was actually suprised at how little of a groove there is for the rope gasket to lay in when I replaced mine but I guess the gaskt does lay flat there so it shouldn't be to hard to keep it there

 

[raybonz]

Mine definitely has a gasket there and i replaced it this year. There isn't much of a groove there for the gasket and it can be hard to see if the gasket material is gone. Clean it really good and hopefully you will be able to see the outline where it lays. I was actually suprised at how little of a groove there is for the rope gasket to lay in when I replaced mine but I guess the gaskt does lay flat there so it shouldn't be to hard to keep it there

Thank you for posting!! There is no gasket mat'l at all on mine but there is a groove along the long side opposite and parallel to the hinge side of the bypass, is that one short length the only piece it needs? The 2 short sides have no groove that I can see and the hinge side has no groove either is it the one long side only that gets the gasket only? Our stoves are very similar and other than yours needing a longer gasket (you have an 8" flue correct?) they are virtually the same..

Thank You!!
Ray

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Ray, sorry as I did not see this thread earlier.

If it has a groove, then it no doubt needs or should have a gasket. Not sure what size though. Can you check the manual?

 

[raybonz]

Ray, sorry as I did not see this thread earlier.

If it has a groove, then it no doubt needs or should have a gasket. Not sure what size though. Can you check the manual?

In the manual it states it uses 25" of 3/8" gasket however this nowhere near that long.. It looks like it only uses it along the side opposite the hinge side of the damper.. I just want to confirm this with someone who has this unit.. I may have lost the gasket for a period of years when I couldn't remove the exhaust cast iron piece.. I managed to finally get it off so now I can get to it..

Ray

 

[certified106]

I'm pretty sure the gasket goes all the way around.

 

[raybonz]

I'm pretty sure the gasket goes all the way around.

Thanx Cert my manual doesn't have that pic.. My stove is older than yours and a bit different but the damper looks similar.. There isn't much of a groove on this stove, is yours that way too?

Ray

 

[raybonz]

I'm pretty sure the gasket goes all the way around.

Thanx Cert my manual doesn't have that pic.. My stove is older than yours and a bit different but the damper looks similar.. There isn't much of a groove on this stove, is yours that way too?

Ray

 

[certified106]

Mine definitely has a gasket there and i replaced it this year. There isn't much of a groove there for the gasket and it can be hard to see if the gasket material is gone. Clean it really good and hopefully you will be able to see the outline where it lays. I was actually suprised at how little of a groove there is for the rope gasket to lay in when I replaced mine but I guess the gaskt does lay flat there so it shouldn't be to hard to keep it there

Thank you for posting!! There is no gasket mat'l at all on mine but there is a groove along the long side opposite and parallel to the hinge side of the bypass, is that one short length the only piece it needs? The 2 short sides have no groove that I can see and the hinge side has no groove either is it the one long side only that gets the gasket only? Our stoves are very similar and other than yours needing a longer gasket (you have an 8" flue correct?) they are virtually the same..

Thank You!!
Ray

Sorry I should have read further and I would have seen your last post. When I installed mine you could barely even tell there was an indent on the sides and the back closest to damper hinge but it was there after I cleaned up the cement. I would expect your gasket to go all the way around the damper also. Yeah our stove are basically the same exact stove except for mine has a larger firebox and my windows are curved instead of square (they even run the same size cat). They say the XL needs an 8" chimney however I run mine on a 6" without a hitch. There are two main reasons for the 8" chimney suggestion....
1) they need plenty of draw (of which I have more than enough with my 6" chimney setup)
2) They come with a screen for running like a fireplace which I have no desire to ever use. (However if you want to run my stove like a fireplace it must have an 8" chimney or it won't be able to draw all the smoke out due to the size of the firebox)

You should see quite a bit of difference once you replace that gasket and all the draft is being pulled through the catalyst. One thing that should be noted about replacing the gasket is that initially it will extremely hard to get the damper to lock down due to the gasket size and you may have to loosen the lock up. However, about two weeks into burning with the new gasket you will probably have to tighten the damper locking mechanism up again due to compression of the gasket. I tend to cheat mine when I replace it and leave it to the point that I can't get the final click and lock into place knowing that in about a week it will close fine.

 

[raybonz]

Mine definitely has a gasket there and i replaced it this year. There isn't much of a groove there for the gasket and it can be hard to see if the gasket material is gone. Clean it really good and hopefully you will be able to see the outline where it lays. I was actually suprised at how little of a groove there is for the rope gasket to lay in when I replaced mine but I guess the gaskt does lay flat there so it shouldn't be to hard to keep it there

Thank you for posting!! There is no gasket mat'l at all on mine but there is a groove along the long side opposite and parallel to the hinge side of the bypass, is that one short length the only piece it needs? The 2 short sides have no groove that I can see and the hinge side has no groove either is it the one long side only that gets the gasket only? Our stoves are very similar and other than yours needing a longer gasket (you have an 8" flue correct?) they are virtually the same..

Thank You!!
Ray

Sorry I should have read further and I would have seen your last post. When I installed mine you could barely even tell there was an indent on the sides and the back closest to damper hinge but it was there after I cleaned up the cement. I would expect your gasket to go all the way around the damper also. Yeah our stove are basically the same exact stove except for mine has a larger firebox and my windows are curved instead of square (they even run the same size cat). They say the XL needs an 8" chimney however I run mine on a 6" without a hitch. There are two main reasons for the 8" chimney suggestion....
1) they need plenty of draw (of which I have more than enough with my 6" chimney setup)
2) They come with a screen for running like a fireplace which I have no desire to ever use. (However if you want to run my stove like a fireplace it must have an 8" chimney or it won't be able to draw all the smoke out due to the size of the firebox)

You should see quite a bit of difference once you replace that gasket and all the draft is being pulled through the catalyst. One thing that should be noted about replacing the gasket is that initially it will extremely hard to get the damper to lock down due to the gasket size and you may have to loosen the lock up. However, about two weeks into burning with the new gasket you will probably have to tighten the damper locking mechanism up again due to compression of the gasket. I tend to cheat mine when I replace it and leave it to the point that I can't get the final click and lock into place knowing that in about a week it will close fine.

Once again a big thanx!! I don't think my damper is adjustable and it looks like replacing this gasket may be a pain in the butt to install but worth the trip.. I will have to wait until the stove is cold so it will have to wait until next week as I work the next 6 days..

Ray

 

[certified106]

Yeah I guess you are right about the damper not being adjustable as I checked my service manual and one of the listed upgrades for 1990 was an improved adjustable damper linkage. I attached a list of the differences between our stoves.

 

[Hardrockmaple]

I just replaced the damper gasket in my 1995 Dutchwest (small). It is not that bad a job. I removed the damper by removing the two 7/16 screws with tabs on the pivot point., removed the damper rod and picked the whole thing out completely. I found on mine that the gasket groove did go completely around the damper (as shown in the previous pic). I wire brushed and picked the old cement out of the groove with a pointed screw driver and replaced as per Dutchwest gasket package instructions.

One thing I did was when replacing the damper I found that when the two pivot point screws were tightened up the damper itself would bind on those tabs and not close entirely. What I did was grind a couple of washers to fit and installed then below the tab, tightened up the two pivot point screws and all is well. The damper now falls flatter and more evenly and gains a nice snug fit every time.

Hope this helps.

Terry C.