I got one of those chain sharpeners from Northern Tool, I think it was. I have pretty much figured out how to use it, but I don't think I'm getting the best results I could be. It seems the chains could stay sharp for longer than they do. One of the biggest issues I see happening is that no matter how I do it, the thing burns the tips of the cutters. Fast pass, slow pass, very shallow cut, etc., nothing seems to change that. So what, are you supposed to spay some sort of coolant on it?
Chain Sharpening
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I'm wondering if you are taking too much material off at each sharpening. It should just be kissing the cutter.
Also, you are using a depth gauge and keeping the rakers down (25 thousands I believe is standard) right?
Also, you are using a depth gauge and keeping the rakers down (25 thousands I believe is standard) right?
No, and not really. But I do know that I should be paying better attention to the rakers. It seems that no matter how small a cut I take, the teeth blue.
Also, I have noticed that the left and right teeth seem to be off in length. The LH teeth are one size, and the RH teeth are a different size. Not sure why this is, if I start with a new chain, and set the depth of cut when I start, and do the whole chain, L & R with that depth of cut.
It takes a light touch to keep from bluing the cutters.I have a Silvey 600 and never blued any cutters.
You will have to do a bunch of adjustments and refining to get your grinder to work properly.It's a cheap grinder,but can be made to do a good job.What color wheel?Some are better than others.Just light taps with the wheel on chain,if it's blued already nothing you can do to put the temper back in the tooth.
Thomas
You will have to do a bunch of adjustments and refining to get your grinder to work properly.It's a cheap grinder,but can be made to do a good job.What color wheel?Some are better than others.Just light taps with the wheel on chain,if it's blued already nothing you can do to put the temper back in the tooth.
Thomas
The chain is Oregon, I believe. The wheel is the pink colored one that came with the grinder. Salecker, using a "light touch" how long does it take to sharpen your chain? How long is the chain? I have also noticed that in the past, when I used to have chains sharpened at the local shop, they never seemed to come back blued. If I'm not mistaken, most of the shops use basically the same tool I have, just a much better version of it, no? And, when done, do you guys clean the chain with anything?
Firewood Bandit
Minister of Fire
You need to very lightly hit the cutter several times which allows the cutter to cool.
I made a bushing to use worn out Silvey wheels on mine. The pink wheels are real hard. The charcoal grey wheels are much softer and run much cooler.
I made a bushing to use worn out Silvey wheels on mine. The pink wheels are real hard. The charcoal grey wheels are much softer and run much cooler.
If you lived closer I'd bring you some chains to sharpen. These days I've all but given up on sharpening chains. I buy two Stihl chains early spring, and they get me through until winter as long as the wood is clean and I don't hit anything too hard. Seems when I sharpen them they cut great but dull quickly....much quicker than when they were new.
Where in NH? LOL, when I have a sharp chain, it lasts sometimes only a day. (I tend to be pretty abusive). LOL, since when have you known firewood to be "clean"? Most of the wood I've cut has had dirt issues...
Standingdead
Burning Hunk
I wonder if most touch up with a file every 3-4 hours of cutting, or do you just keep using the chain until its dull and then regrind?
I personally have no use whatsoever for a file when it comes to saw chain. I've tried, it's a waste of my time.
D8Chumley
Minister of Fire
Haha I'm trying to learn on my bigger saw with 3/8 chain. How do you like that Echo? I was nose-poking around CL yesterday and saw one that caught my CAD eye
(broken link removed to http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tld/4394787955.html)
I thought about this one also (broken link removed to http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/4399671269.html). Sorry for the hijack, just looking for an Echo users opinion for a spare saw
Standingdead
Burning Hunk
I personally have no use whatsoever for a file when it comes to saw chain. I've tried, it's a waste of my time.[/quote
There some good youtubes on the 4 stroke each side method. My concern would be grinding so much would use up the chain pretty fast. I got a real cheap grinder though and so maybe I try to avoid using it.
What is CAD eye?
Echo...I think it is a very quality saw. It starts VERY easily, runs pretty good. Sometimes, it does take longer to warm up than I think it should. It has been back to the dealer I bought it from several times because of this. They have taken care of it every time, at no cost to me. Echo products have a 5 year homeowner warrantee, and a 2 year commercial warrantee. That's a lot, IMHO. I think it's a good saw. Would I buy another? No. I still prefer Stihl. The Stihl dealer was closed on the day I NEEDED the saw, and the Echo dealer was open...I prefer the OEM Stihl chain, it's beefier, and the cutters are bigger, plus it's about a dollar cheaper. But I also can't speak to Stil's recent reliability, ease of start, dealer support, etc. I think you probably couldn't go wrong with an Echo, as long as you buy it from a dealer, & not Home Depot. Here's a hint; if you get an Echo, buy at least the CS400. Anything under that, and it'll have plastic parts on it the should be metal. I also wish I had bought the next model up. The 400 comes stock with an 18" bar. I had them put a 16" on it, and I STILL wish for more power.
Echo...I think it is a very quality saw. It starts VERY easily, runs pretty good. Sometimes, it does take longer to warm up than I think it should. It has been back to the dealer I bought it from several times because of this. They have taken care of it every time, at no cost to me. Echo products have a 5 year homeowner warrantee, and a 2 year commercial warrantee. That's a lot, IMHO. I think it's a good saw. Would I buy another? No. I still prefer Stihl. The Stihl dealer was closed on the day I NEEDED the saw, and the Echo dealer was open...I prefer the OEM Stihl chain, it's beefier, and the cutters are bigger, plus it's about a dollar cheaper. But I also can't speak to Stil's recent reliability, ease of start, dealer support, etc. I think you probably couldn't go wrong with an Echo, as long as you buy it from a dealer, & not Home Depot. Here's a hint; if you get an Echo, buy at least the CS400. Anything under that, and it'll have plastic parts on it the should be metal. I also wish I had bought the next model up. The 400 comes stock with an 18" bar. I had them put a 16" on it, and I STILL wish for more power.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Very interesting, I have been contemplating getting one of the electric sharpeners from northern tool, it seems that its more of a science to get good results, unless you spend the big $$$ on a good pro sharpener. That's not really for me though, I prob only cut about 8 cord of logs a year. I did buy one of those husquavarna 2 in 1 hand sharpers, I have been getting real good results, for the 5 min of effort, you get a factory sharp chain, and its real easy, the files, round and flat sit in a jig, the flat file is at the correct height (lower than the round) to adjust the rakers. I think the total cost was around $15.00, and the thing paid for it self with in the first couple weeks of cutting, got about 8 cords cut with one chain.
D8Chumley
Minister of Fire
Chainsaw Acquisition Disorder. I'm always looking on CL for that "I just can't pass this up" kinda deal
EDIT: The Stihl dealer I go to, nice Mennonite fellas, have all 3 flavors available for sale. I have had an Echo straight shaft weedwacker for years now and I love that thing
EDIT: The Stihl dealer I go to, nice Mennonite fellas, have all 3 flavors available for sale. I have had an Echo straight shaft weedwacker for years now and I love that thing
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Ahh, I have a friend that has that. He's got a thing for large old saws. Recently, he bought a BIG Husky saw at a junkyard, not running but with good compression, no bar, no chain. He cleaned it up cosmetically, and it's currently sitting on E-Bay at $305. He paid the junkyard 20 bucks for it.
Kennyp, sounds like that filer is just about right for you....
Kennyp, sounds like that filer is just about right for you....
Firewood Bandit
Minister of Fire
I am not meaning to be critical, but good results with grinders are had by those with a good understanding of hand filing.
Firewood Bandit
Minister of Fire
I can't imagine cutting 3-4 hours without filing a chain. At the absolute max I have ever run is perhaps 3 tanks, but generally I file almost every tank. The wood I cut is off log landing with skidded logs. Sure it is real hard on chains, but a tank also cut 2 face cords and I can do that in about an hour of getting it, cutting it and unloading. (the logger boys load my trailer with the forwarder) You can see the dirt in the logs in the picture.
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Well, it's true that I do not know everything there is to know about saw chain. I know the basics. Seems to me that if you have the right width grinding wheel, and both angles are set correctly for the chain, that's a lot of it. I don't really see what understanding hand filing has to do with understanding machine grinding. Simply understanding the geometry of the chain is what matters.
Seems like some of my problem is the machine. The instructions were lacking, to say the least. I knew this before I bought it. Like I say, my biggest problem is bluing the teeth. I get that's bad. I'm just not sure how to make that not happen. I have some chains to sharpen today, I will try taking off a very small amount & going slowly, and see if that works.
Firewood Bandit
Minister of Fire
I agree, the directions are somewhat lacking on some of the grinders.
The wheel needs to be correctly profiled, the it should match the cutter face exactly the same way as a file does. That means 20% of the wheel or file needs to be above the cutter. If you go to deep into the gullet you are grinding with the side of the wheel rather than the radiused edge. When you clean out gullets you go deeper and DO NOT hit the cutting edge.
Just out of curiosity - does your grinder grind the same direction (away from or into) on both sides?
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