Chainsaw sharpening

[Bagelboy]

Ok guys, I've got a husqvarna 20" chainsaw with one extra chain. The problem is I can't seem to get the chain really sharp with a file. I'm using a 3/8" round file like recommended, but I think my sharpening skills are lacking. It never seems to really make the chain much sharper. Any recommendations? Anything to recommend a novice sharpener?

 

[JP11]

Ok guys, I've got a husqvarna 20" chainsaw with one extra chain. The problem is I can't seem to get the chain really sharp with a file. I'm using a 3/8" round file like recommended, but I think my sharpening skills are lacking. It never seems to really make the chain much sharper. Any recommendations? Anything to recommend a novice sharpener?

Nothing beats SEEING how to do it. Best bet is go to your local saw store and ask them to show you.

OR.. second best is internet videos. watch a bunch. you'll get it eventually.

JP

 

[billb3]

a fairly common newby habit is dragging the file against the tooth on the return stroke
go get a new file if you've been doing that

and a file does get old, either that or they just don't make 'em like they used to.

 

[Sinngetreu]

Are you using a 3/8" round file, or is the chain pitch 3/8"?
The chains for my Husky are 7/32" kerf diameter with the chain pitch being 3/8". That's for a 20" bar.
That could make a difference.
Do you use a file guide on your file too in order to keep the right angle on both the tooth direction (the 30 degree angle) and horizontally (the difference in the file being level or angled up)? The file should be around 10 degrees with the low end on the handle side.
The top of the file shouldn't go below the top of the tooth otherwise your just digging a pocket on the chain. Also make sure your pressure is back toward the powerhead and not down to the bar.

Check your OM for the specifics. This is the info for mine.

Just a little food for thought. Its tough filing by hand.

 

[Fifelaker]

Get a file-n-joint or a husquvarna file guide or even better a Timberline. The file you need is 7/32" round file Stihl uses 13/64" both would work. The timberline comes with either size carbide. Filing takes some time to master on your own. Find a logger and see if he will show you the basics. I have a timberline and it is the cats azz for getting your angles correct but you still need to do your rackers/depth gauges.

 

[mtarbert]

a fairly common newby habit is dragging the file against the tooth on the return stroke
go get a new file if you've been doing that

and a file does get old, either that or they just don't make 'em like they used to.

If I may simplify .....A file only cuts ONE way. "SAWING" with a file only hastens turning it into a worn out file. If your file "Loads" up with metal dont strike it on a hard surface. It may break and (again) be ruined. To help with stopping a file from loading ...rub it with chalkboard chalk. That will keep the teeth clean. Good Luck

 

[UncleJoe]

a fairly common newby habit is dragging the file against the tooth on the return stroke

Another common problem with someone just learning to sharpen is rounding off the tip. As they come to the end of the stroke and there is more length out front, the file tends to turn a bit from the correct angle. Then you have a slightly rounded point on the tooth.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Lot's going on here. In no particular order.

1) When you're learning chain filing seems like voodoo. It's not. It is a difficult, though learnable skill. Don't give up. Watch some youtube vids.

2) Make sure you have the right size file. My knowledge of saws and saw paraphernalia is not complete and exhaustive, but, I've never heard of a 3/8 file. Also, 13/64 and 7/32 files are pretty much interchangeable (though I prefer 7/32)

3) File your rakers. Your cutters might be razor sharp but that won't matter if they can't reach the log.

4) Re-read #1

 

[jlightning]

When I started out I could not hand sharpen a chain to save my life. i decided at the time that I needed an electric chain sharpener and purchased a cheap one from harbor freight. The grinder works well but in the meantime I learned how to hand sharpen chains from watching videos on you tube. Now I only use the grinder if I seriously rock the chain. Three pieces of advice for hand sharpening are to use a good file w/ guide, to watch your angles, and don't forget the rakers.

 

[Fred Wright]

Great advice here.

I'd like to add, your chain cutters should all be ground or filed to the same size. That's a mistake I made when I started cutting wood some years ago. And it's easy to do if you don't pay close attention while filing. Use the shortest cutter on the loop as a standard to sharpen the rest.

The Huskyvarna roller file guide is a good investment, I've been using one for years. Inexpensive and comes with files, file handle and depth gauge guide.

Hope it helps.

 

[geoff1969]

i would say the 3/8 file = refering to pitch . my stihl files are 200 x 5.2 mm ....77/8 x 13/64'' ...3/8

 

[drumbum]

What saw? IS the chain Vangaurd? Get a Husqvarna filing guide kit. With said kit you can keep a chain cutting BETTER than new until the cutters start breaking off.