Chimney and cap repair

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

crater22

Burning Hunk
Nov 23, 2014
179
brookville, indiana
Have not seen any post's regarding the repair and upkeep of the outside chimney bricks and the cement cap. Can someone recommend a sight for questions regarding these issues? Or is it o.k. to post here? Maybe most of the people posting already know how to do this.

Many thanks in advance
 
Have not seen any post's regarding the repair and upkeep of the outside chimney bricks and the cement cap. Can someone recommend a sight for questions regarding these issues? Or is it o.k. to post here? Maybe most of the people posting already know how to do this.

Many thanks in advance
Here's $4400 worth...2 summers ago (3 flu). Connected now to a pellet stove pipe so I guess it counts in this thread...

[Hearth.com] Chimney and cap repair
 
Here's the skinny on masonry chimneys, inspect yearly for cracks or any sign of moisture damage, moisture once inside a crack will cause larger cracks and deeper cracks during the freeze thaw cycle. I will be redoing my skim coat this summer on my boiler chimney, im starting to get cracks near the top part by my cap.
 
Maintain it and take care of any small issues when they come up and a total rebuild wont be necessary. The main thing if keep the water out and dont do it with sealers either they are just a bandaid
 
Many of the chimneys around here that are falling apart is due to poor design. For some reason the mason decided to step the brick out at the top to create a "bell", which is fine. The problem is they step the brick back in at the top, that creates a place for water to enter the mortar joint. They also use mortar for the crown instead of cement. It's all down hill from there! I see it all the time around here.

Mine was also like that. I had to tuck point most of the backside of the chimney, then I cast a new crown in place with cement. The overhang prevents water from running down the bricks.
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Chimney and cap repair
    image.webp
    138.3 KB · Views: 476
Last edited:
Is there any type of sealer that would be ok to use on the crown to prevent moisture damage and cracking. My crown is parged and is unsealed (raw), last time i went up to clean it started to show a few hairline cracks.
 
Very sorry that happened to you. That is why I am asking about preventive measures to keep that happening to me.
Well you did ask for a sight. LOL.

Personally, I found upkeeping brick and mortar chimneys and steps expensive and time-consuming.
There are plenty of home handyman websites and books that address maintenance.
Having done all the above I have torn out two old brick/clay lined chimneys that were getting old and replaced them with stainless stel manfactured chimneys which I believe are safer and less maintenance. ( not 0 as there are still water intrusion issues to watch for )

Get up there once a year and look for crumbling/cracked mortar and loose bricks.
I also like a concrete top and even had a concrete cap once. ( stone chimney, not brick )
 
Is there any type of sealer that would be ok to use on the crown to prevent moisture damage and cracking. My crown is parged and is unsealed (raw), last time i went up to clean it started to show a few hairline cracks.
Yes there are several crown sealing or coating products that can work well if the crown is solid wit ha few hairline cracks
 
bholler, what sealer or coating would you recommend for our area? My crown is in good shape just needs a decent coat or two of something to protect it.
 
crown coat drown seal or any other of the reputable crown coating products i don't really use them very often but the few times i have used them it was crown coat.
 
crown coat drown seal or any other of the reputable crown coating products i don't really use them very often but the few times i have used them it was crown coat.
Thanks definitely will do this when I get back up there in a few weeks. Only some small hairline cracks just would rather do it sooner than later.
 
I've used lots of crown coat, it's made by chimney saver. It's a great product with a great warranty if it's installed right. When you do it, wire brush the crown, then mask off the flue about an inch up from the crown. This makes a nice neat job. Typically the crown was made to taper off to nothing where it meets the brick or stone. At that point there is a small gap that allows water in, make sure to go beyond that point with the crown coat. If it's brick, I typically would also coat the entire top row of bricks along with the crown, it seals it up better and gives the appearance of a big cast crown. Also mask the brick off with some tape.

Make sure to buy enough for 2 coats.
 
I used Chimney saver water based sealant for the brick work on my chimney. Warranty for 10 years, of course I will still probably recoat it in 5 because I like over kill. I used something called "Duck Coat" on the chimney cap. I was impressed with this product because it adhered to the cement really well and really filled up the little cracks in the cement. It is essentially like a rubberized paint. A little preventative maintenance goes a long way.
 
I used Chimney saver water based sealant for the brick work on my chimney.
I really dont like to see chimneys sealed i have found they hold up a whole lot better if they are left unsealed. With a few exceptions some very porous stone and brick can benefit from it but for the most part you are better off without sealants. But atleast you picked a good one to use.
 
I'm perfectly fine with water proofing brick and stone. But like bholler, it's should not be used to band-aid an underlying problem.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler
I'm perfectly fine with water proofing brick and stone. But like bholler, it's should not be used to band-aid an underlying problem.
I am fine with it if you use the right product but if the masonry is done right it is a waste of money and if it is not in good shape it should be fixed and waterproofing wont do much to help
 
  • Like
Reactions: webby3650
I am fine with it if you use the right product but if the masonry is done right it is a waste of money and if it is not in good shape it should be fixed and waterproofing wont do much to help
I appreciate your stance on the subject. Too many chimney sweep companies push waterproofing on customers as something that they must do. It rarely is needed, if ever.
A proper crown is what's typically needed.
 
I am fine with it if you use the right product but if the masonry is done right it is a waste of money and if it is not in good shape it should be fixed and waterproofing wont do much to help
Boy, just like OAK or no OAK, brick sealant is a topic for discussion.... I had it done, but the real problem I had (pic above) was a porous brick that cracked from the inside. Also too, the orig chimney builder filled around the clay tile with about 50 mud buckets full of sand and small rock. My masonry guy had never seen anything like it. Still talks about it to this day.
 
Boy, just like OAK or no OAK, brick sealant is a topic for discussion.... I had it done, but the real problem I had (pic above) was a porous brick that cracked from the inside. Also too, the orig chimney builder filled around the clay tile with about 50 mud buckets full of sand and small rock. My masonry guy had never seen anything like it. Still talks about it to this day.
Sounds like a much better idea than backfilling it with mortar which is more common.

Your brick was cracking from the inside because water was able to find its way through the crown and then froze and busted.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler
the orig chimney builder filled around the clay tile with about 50 mud buckets full of sand and small rock. My masonry guy had never seen anything like it. Still talks about it to this day.
I have seen it to it is a pain but like webby said not really that bad it still allows for expansion and contraction unlike mortar which i see allot more. And pretty much everything else he said was spot on as well
 
Sounds like a much better idea than backfilling it with mortar which is more common.

Your brick was cracking from the inside because water was able to find its way through the crown and then froze and busted.
Yes, all agreed. Cracked crown, internal sand held, retained moisture, expanded, then cracked and popped the brick. Was suppose to be a fairly simple repair but turned into a total rebuild once ripped apart and saw the damage.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.