Chimney cap removal

[pyper]

I was on the roof and looked at my new chimney cap, from the standpoint of thinking about cleaning it.

It's one of these:

(broken link removed)

Apparently after they cinched the three legs over the flex liner, they used silicon to seal the large flange to the sheet metal cover on the top of the chimney. (So there's a metal cover screwed to the masonry, and sealed with silicon, and then this piece sealed to that piece.)

So how do I get it off to clean?

Can I cut the legs under the dome, and then fabricate something to re-connect? I'm guessing not, but that sure would be easy. The whole thing is under a sheet metal cover, so if I just removed the dome the chimney opening would still be covered from rain, but it would need a screen to keep birds out.

It would be easy to cut the legs just under the dome, and then use gravity and a brick to hold the dome in place.

Why is it I have a feeling that none of these easy solutions will be the correct solution?

 

[Hogwildz]

Without a pic, we all van only imagine the situation.
Why can't you loosen the band around the legs and lift it off?
Silicone can always be cut and or removed

 

[pyper]

Without a pic, we all van only imagine the situation.
Why can't you loosen the band around the legs and lift it off?
Silicone can always be cut and or removed

The band is at the very bottom of the cap, around the flex. It's under the part that's glued down with the silicon.

It's dark and raining right now, so a photo isn't an option at the present moment, but here's a sketch:

 

[bogydave]

Your plan sounds workable.
I think the straps/legs are spot welded to the cap. Can you remove the 1-1/2" band, just below the hat, it might be pop riveted, (drill them out) then cut the legs where it was?
cut the legs so you have enough left to splice on both pieces & cut a piece of galvanized sheet metal in strip as wide as the legs. Drill & pop rivet one end of the strips to the cap (2 rivets so it hold good)
then put screws thru the strip to the leg that is attached to the chimney. Then you can take it of easy when you need access to clean it next time.
Might use the band (I think it's a wind band) to be the splice & attach with screws instead of making spice strips.
Sure hate to cut out all the silicone & have to dope it up every-time you clean the pipe.
A good weather job for sure.
The cap you have is made to just clamp to the pipe, this one has the clamp built in. ,mine is about the same but uses a big hose type clamp to hold it on.
If they buried the hold down clamp. time to modify it so you can get in there & clean the chimney.
Good luck

 

[pyper]

Hi Dave,

That sounds like a pretty good idea. I hadn't thought of using the band as the connector. Just get some small SS nuts and bolts. That would have the advantages of keeping all the things in their original configurations and not needing to cut the silicon.

I'd prefer to avoid cutting the silicon and lifting the pipe because I'm sure there can't be much slack in it. That is, lifting it up at the roof end might dislodge it at the stove end.

 

[BrotherBart]

Why do you have a Class A cap on a flex liner

 

[gpcollen1]

Why do you have a Class A cap on a flex liner

Yeah, apparently they used the wrong part - if it was a contractor. On class A, that clamp would be visible and accessible. On the liner, it hides down below the seal at teh top of the chimney.

Bummer!

 

[pyper]

Why do you have a Class A cap on a flex liner

Beats me -- I didn't do it.

Is it a problem? Aside from the one I've discovered, that is...

 

[gpcollen1]

Does not look like a problem except for the fact that you have to modify a cap when you should not have to. Other than that, you just have to make sure no water can get in anywhere. Liner caps are designed with parts to make sure your flue is sealed off with the correct sized top plate...see link...


http://www.chimneylinerinc.com/round-liner-kit.php

 

[bogydave]

i call that:
"Brand new, to be modified, to be useful"