I've been burning the entire month of January in my newly installed Lopi Republic 1750 and today I went on the roof to check the chimney. Let me describe the creosote I found: After removing the rain cap I found a pitch black shiny coating on the inside of the chimney with small black ash stuck in it. The rain cap itself was covered with creosote also. I began running my poly brush down the chimney - until I realized that only Heman himself could reverse the brush mid chimney. (I have a 30 degree offset and am worried the brush will get stuck in it. I plan to trim the brush a bit and try again.) The brush didn't seem to scratch the surface of the cresote. I don't think I'll be able to clean this stuff out of the chimney. Is this to be expected? Does this sound typical considering that I'm burning one year seasoned oak? (I am splitting it small and leaving the door cracked until its really burning well.) Any advice?
Chimney cleaning advice needed
- Thread starter ericj
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thewoodlands
Minister of Fire
ericj said:
Oak usually takes two years to season from what I have read on here. I use Anti Creo-Soot which will change any shiny creosote to fluffy ash if you think it's safe to have a fire.
We bought it from our local hearth store.
http://www.chimneysaver.com/anti_creo_soot.html
Zap
bogydave
Minister of Fire
Ouch!
I use a steel wire brush on mine, don't know if your pipe it OK for wire though,
Once you get it clean, burn hotter fires & use well seasoned, dry fire wood.
Even if you have to call a pro, get it clean. Sound like you are very close to a chimney fire.
Zap's idea may be best, just be ready so nothing gets out of hand.
You can try a hot fire, just be there ready to shut it down it catches fire, sometime it'll loosen it up & fall off in sheets. Garden hose & ladder if anything don't look right.
You'll be fine. You found it before it became a serious event. That's one big positive!
It a learning curve most all of us have gone thru, I had a chimney fire, was lucky no damage but it was caught quick.
You'll be another Dry wood convert. & know why.
Oak 2- 3 years to season, depending on several factors, 1 year "it's not ready to burn", now you know.
If it's all you got to burn & have to burn, burn hotter fires & keep a close eye on it, clean it weekly.
Best to get some other wood, well seasoned, & dry.
Keep us posted, good info for everyone.
I use a steel wire brush on mine, don't know if your pipe it OK for wire though,
Once you get it clean, burn hotter fires & use well seasoned, dry fire wood.
Even if you have to call a pro, get it clean. Sound like you are very close to a chimney fire.
Zap's idea may be best, just be ready so nothing gets out of hand.
You can try a hot fire, just be there ready to shut it down it catches fire, sometime it'll loosen it up & fall off in sheets. Garden hose & ladder if anything don't look right.
You'll be fine. You found it before it became a serious event. That's one big positive!
It a learning curve most all of us have gone thru, I had a chimney fire, was lucky no damage but it was caught quick.
You'll be another Dry wood convert. & know why.
Oak 2- 3 years to season, depending on several factors, 1 year "it's not ready to burn", now you know.
If it's all you got to burn & have to burn, burn hotter fires & keep a close eye on it, clean it weekly.
Best to get some other wood, well seasoned, & dry.
Keep us posted, good info for everyone.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
soupy1957
Minister of Fire
Ain't nobody in their right mind would be up on MY roof right now
Plenty of snow and ice on it!!
I wonder if those tubes of whatever their called (creosote buster products that you burn in your fire, once a month), would help break down the creosote? I read an article recently (Consumer's Reports) on these types of products I'm asking about. They did controlled testing and their final report stated that there was no appreciable change to the amount of creosote in a chimney with NO treatment done -vs- WITH a treatment. They tried a half dozen of the more well known, readily available products out there for the study.
-Soupy1957
Plenty of snow and ice on it!!I wonder if those tubes of whatever their called (creosote buster products that you burn in your fire, once a month), would help break down the creosote? I read an article recently (Consumer's Reports) on these types of products I'm asking about. They did controlled testing and their final report stated that there was no appreciable change to the amount of creosote in a chimney with NO treatment done -vs- WITH a treatment. They tried a half dozen of the more well known, readily available products out there for the study.
-Soupy1957
Here are a few links regarding chimney cleaning and creosote that you may find useful.
All about chimney cleaning.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/48236/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/65194/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/creosote_from_wood_burning_causes_and_solutions
http://www.csia.org/
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Home-Safety/Fire-Safety/when-to-clean-a-chimney-flue
all about creosote (with pics)
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/4845/
pen
All about chimney cleaning.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/48236/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/65194/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/creosote_from_wood_burning_causes_and_solutions
http://www.csia.org/
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Home-Safety/Fire-Safety/when-to-clean-a-chimney-flue
all about creosote (with pics)
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/4845/
pen
The first poly brush I had would barely reverse after traveling on 6-8" down the Class A. Dad had to trim it up with some tin snips before it was even remotely usable. After that it did the job fine, so that is one option to consider.
Also ponder this: if this is your first time cleaning, consider making the investment in having a professional sweep come out. More expensive? Sure. But you may gain in experience what you pay out in dollars. Typically after one month of burning in my Endeavor (same body as your 1750i), I get about a cup or so (8-12 oz) of fine, brown powder that looks just like coffee grounds. This is burning a variety of woods: pine, maple, gum, red oak, and white oak. This is in a 18' Class A system that is a straight shot from stove to daylight. Based on your description, what you have is NOT typical of an EPA stove 1.)burning dry, seasoned wood and 2.) operated properly (e.g., not smoldering the fire). (Note: this is not a criticism, just an observation.)
There are different stages of creosote, and it sounds like you may have stage 2 and/or stage 3 creosote. There are products on the market that are designed to help turn those types into something more brushable, but at this stage you may be risking a chimney fire by continuing to burn, hence my suggestion of hiring the pro: they have access to a chemical that the general public doesn't, from what I have read, that can help.
I'm sure some experienced members, sweeps, and/or installers will chime in soon, so hang out with us. Also, as suggested, it would be great if you could get a few pics posted for us.
Also ponder this: if this is your first time cleaning, consider making the investment in having a professional sweep come out. More expensive? Sure. But you may gain in experience what you pay out in dollars. Typically after one month of burning in my Endeavor (same body as your 1750i), I get about a cup or so (8-12 oz) of fine, brown powder that looks just like coffee grounds. This is burning a variety of woods: pine, maple, gum, red oak, and white oak. This is in a 18' Class A system that is a straight shot from stove to daylight. Based on your description, what you have is NOT typical of an EPA stove 1.)burning dry, seasoned wood and 2.) operated properly (e.g., not smoldering the fire). (Note: this is not a criticism, just an observation.)
There are different stages of creosote, and it sounds like you may have stage 2 and/or stage 3 creosote. There are products on the market that are designed to help turn those types into something more brushable, but at this stage you may be risking a chimney fire by continuing to burn, hence my suggestion of hiring the pro: they have access to a chemical that the general public doesn't, from what I have read, that can help.
I'm sure some experienced members, sweeps, and/or installers will chime in soon, so hang out with us. Also, as suggested, it would be great if you could get a few pics posted for us.
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
Hopefully you take this as a good learning lesson. The only cure for this is to burn only good dry wood. Although I read that some folks can burn oak after a year, we won't even attempt to burn oak until it has sit in the stack for 3 years.
Good fuel will cure 99% of all wood stove problems. Poor fuel will cause 99% of all wood stove problems.
Good fuel will cure 99% of all wood stove problems. Poor fuel will cause 99% of all wood stove problems.
Ok, I trimmed my poly brush down so I can scrub with it. I also bought some Rutland creosote remover which says it converts glazed creosote to the powdery kind.
After looking at the chimney again, the glazed creosote is mostly on the cap and the first few inches of the chimney. Further down it is a hard, dull kind that is adhered very tightly to the chimney. My poly brush won't do a thing to it. Hopefully the cresote remover will make it easier to remove.
I'm working on next year's wood supply. This year I'm going to use more kindling to get my fire, and flue, up to temp quicker.
I hope the Rutland stuff I bought will work in place of what Zap recommended - I couldn't find that stuff in town.
After looking at the chimney again, the glazed creosote is mostly on the cap and the first few inches of the chimney. Further down it is a hard, dull kind that is adhered very tightly to the chimney. My poly brush won't do a thing to it. Hopefully the cresote remover will make it easier to remove.
I'm working on next year's wood supply. This year I'm going to use more kindling to get my fire, and flue, up to temp quicker.
I hope the Rutland stuff I bought will work in place of what Zap recommended - I couldn't find that stuff in town.
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