Hello All, Brand spanky new member who is planning his own woodstove install. I have done research - stove is a used VC (read my manual - <1995, "like new, only burned on sundays) defiant encore 0028 w/ cat. The person I bought it from threw in the pipe and chimney (class A Selkirk 8" Sure-Temp equivalent - back then it was called something else, but Selkirk told me it was the same), enough for the install in my single floor sun room. The intent is to complement an oil forced hot air heating system for my downstairs sunroom, kitchen, dinning room and livingroom (I put returns for the furnace and larger vent ducts in and the sunroom just will not heat up in the winter because of the 8 windows and 2 skylights - thermostat in kitchen) Here is the question for the experts. My sunroom is a single floor addition to the rear of a 1872 Victorian (not an airtight new home) that is 38 feet at the front of the house to the peak. Half way back it is 2 stories (both front and mid house have 1:1 roof = steep) then drops to the sunroom with a 12' cathedral ceiling. I talked with 2 installers (one at a stove store, one an independant). they both stated concern that if I install the stove at the back of the house and use the basic 10-2-3 rule I will have "chimney effect" draft problems. That is the heat rising in the taller parts of the house will pull air from the sunroom and creat a downdraft. This downdraft will make getting a fire going difficult and importantly stink (unacceptable) out the house with woodstove smell when we do not have fires going. Option 1 is to install on back corner of sunroom to code (10-2-3) and have a chimney in the 15-16 foot range. If I do the following will I still have "chimney effect" and draft problems? - I can close a door a the top of the back stairs (off kitchen which is off sunroom) and the doors off dining room and living room to help contain the updraft. Woulld this make a difference or does enough air go through the cracks around doors (old house loose fitting doors)? - open near window with lighting or put in an out side air kit - put in flue damper (stop down draft when stove not in use) - put in extra x feet of chimney (nothing that requires a red blinking light, but and extra 3-4 feet) Option 2 is to locate the stove on the wall shared by the second story, go through the roof on the sunroom and up the exterior of the second floor wall and another 10 or so feet to get 10-2-3 on the second floor roof. this option will make the install much more difficult expensive (around $1000 more is an estimate i have worked up on materials and labor) because of the exterior run chimney will likely need a few 15 degree bends and considerable more height (4 the way I see it now - 2 to get close to the exterior wall for supports 2 to go around the eves - i may find exterior supports that allow me to run it straight at 2-3 feet from the wall - have not found those yet). this alternative would also be less desirable appearance wise and a much harder to clean (from the bottom only and around potenital bends?) I do not want to do option 2 unless I really have to, but am afraid of installing option 1 finding the stove is not working properly (& stinking us out) necessitating option 2 (and a second hole in my roof). Anybody have experience with an option 1 install? Opinions? Thank you for your help!