Chimney Pipe Penetration

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midrover170

New Member
Sep 21, 2015
12
Idaho
Hi all -

Recently installed my chimney pipe at the cabin. Cathedral ceiling, rafters 12" OC, reduced clearance (10.5") cathedral ceiling support box, 8" outer dia. DuraTech pipe.

At the penetration through roof, I cut the plywood back as close to the edges of the support box as possible. Maybe .5" inches shy of being flush. When I was getting the support brackets on the pipe, I needed to angle the pipe slightly toward one side to get it plumb. This was a little bit of a concern, because regardless of how you install 8" outer diameter DuraTech in a reduced clearance box, you're going to be less than 2" away from the combustible roof deck. This worried me, so I used some z-flashing to face all of the exposed roof deck, applied with high heat silicone. Now, no matter where the pipe sits, it's completely surrounded by a non-combustible material.

Does this seem OK to folks, even if the pipe was resting, or close to resting, on that z-flashing?

- D
 
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No you need 1" from the outside of that pipe to any combustible material. while it is inside that box once it is past the box it goes back to 2"
 
The Z flashing does nothing to reduce clearances to combustibles which are right behind the flashing. The class A chimney pipe needs 2" clearance from the roof decking as it passes through the roof.
 
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Darn... Have a raging wildfire a mile away from the build and was hoping not to have any other issues.

So, if in my shoes, what would you do? Rip up the $100 silicone boot, try to save it, and cut out the opening bigger? Seems like the only option at this point.

The Z flashing does nothing to reduce clearances to combustibles which are right behind the flashing. The class A chimney pipe needs 2" clearance from the roof decking as it passes through the roof.

I suppose my only question is how the support box is any different in a reduced clearance application. It's made out of the same thin material as the z-flashing and there are rafters touching the outside wall.
 
Reasonable question to ask. The main difference is that it was tested safe for the reduced clearance. What I don't understand is why the cathedral ceiling support box was not brought up through the roof and why a silicone boot flashing was used? Is this a metal roof?
 
Reasonable question to ask. The main difference is that it was tested safe for the reduced clearance. What I don't understand is why the cathedral ceiling support box was not brought up through the roof and why a silicone boot flashing was used? Is this a metal roof?

I had to get the support box installed early to be ready for drywall. Pipe/boot wasn't on site (hour from home, off-grid, etc.), so I cut it to the pitch of the roof and installed it flush like I've seen on here. This is a corrugated metal roof.

I just submitted a service request with a local mechanical contractor. Going to have them come up to make it right/safe and prepared to pay for it...

I'm running out of time and need to pick my battles from here.
 
I appreciate you dilemma. A picture or two here would be worth a lot to help see what you are seeing. Normally one would extend the cathedral box out of the roof and fold over the edges to make a flange, but metal roofs present their own challenges.
 
I appreciate you dilemma. A picture or two here would be worth a lot to help see what you are seeing. Normally one would extend the cathedral box out of the roof and fold over the edges to make a flange, but metal roofs present their own challenges.

Guess that's part of the problem now, begreen: it's impossible to see now that the boot is on there. Sheetrook is up so hidden from below as well. This is about the best I have...

[Hearth.com] Chimney Pipe Penetration [Hearth.com] Chimney Pipe Penetration [Hearth.com] Chimney Pipe Penetration
 
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Nice view - nice cabin too. Good luck with the chimney fixes. It'll be worth the extra effort in the end.
 
Yes, that looks nice. Unfortunately we are getting introduced after the installation is complete. The best we can do is suggest the correct way to install. The z metal may help, but there's no way we can know that for sure.
 
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