Hi, looking for some advise as to what options we have available to us when looking at a potential new stove. We purchased this home last winter, and quickly found out that the 'fire place' that was installed when the house was built wasn't meeting our expectations, and I don't believe the previous owners ever used it. What's currently there is a Martin SB4800 zero clearance fireplace.
I really liked sitting by the fireplace in our last house, and my wife would like something that looks better in the living room, so we'd like to pursue something like the following. This is just a random pic of pinterest.
The question I have pertains to the chimney. We've settled on either the Green Mountain 60, or if we can't source that the Hipster 20, with 6 inch chimney requirements. Here is the current chimney stack, the top of a new stove to the top of the stack is about 21ft.
When we started down this project, I didn't realize that connectivity to the old chimney was going to be an issue. To replace the whole stack with a new 6 ID class A chimney we were quoted about $3400. Not an inexpensive proposition. It was suggested to run an insulated liner down the current chimney, and the place we got the quote from confirmed today that can be done, but there isn't a way to support the old chimney, thus can't do it.
Conceptually this is what I picture. We don't have a second story, but we have a vaulted ceiling and the chimney is hidden in the wall. The wife doesn't like the look of a completely open alcove and the stove pipe running to the ceiling.
1)I'm going to be removing the old insert and framing out the alcove, if its a matter of supporting the stack can't that be accommodated with the reframe?
2)Is it a matter of no UL listed connections available?
3)Is it a way to up-sell?
4)Which sections need to be class A, the part hidden in the wall until it enters the attic, or the whole chimney?
Looking for education, not to be difficult. If consensus is the whole chimney has to be replaced, then thats what it is. If there are alternatives it would be appreciated because ordering a liner appears to be about 1/3rd of what they quoted us. And if ordering our own parts for the class A and installing ourselves is significantly cheaper, then we're down for that as well.
Much obliged for the help,
David
I really liked sitting by the fireplace in our last house, and my wife would like something that looks better in the living room, so we'd like to pursue something like the following. This is just a random pic of pinterest.
The question I have pertains to the chimney. We've settled on either the Green Mountain 60, or if we can't source that the Hipster 20, with 6 inch chimney requirements. Here is the current chimney stack, the top of a new stove to the top of the stack is about 21ft.
When we started down this project, I didn't realize that connectivity to the old chimney was going to be an issue. To replace the whole stack with a new 6 ID class A chimney we were quoted about $3400. Not an inexpensive proposition. It was suggested to run an insulated liner down the current chimney, and the place we got the quote from confirmed today that can be done, but there isn't a way to support the old chimney, thus can't do it.
Conceptually this is what I picture. We don't have a second story, but we have a vaulted ceiling and the chimney is hidden in the wall. The wife doesn't like the look of a completely open alcove and the stove pipe running to the ceiling.
1)I'm going to be removing the old insert and framing out the alcove, if its a matter of supporting the stack can't that be accommodated with the reframe?
2)Is it a matter of no UL listed connections available?
3)Is it a way to up-sell?
4)Which sections need to be class A, the part hidden in the wall until it enters the attic, or the whole chimney?
Looking for education, not to be difficult. If consensus is the whole chimney has to be replaced, then thats what it is. If there are alternatives it would be appreciated because ordering a liner appears to be about 1/3rd of what they quoted us. And if ordering our own parts for the class A and installing ourselves is significantly cheaper, then we're down for that as well.
Much obliged for the help,
David
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