chimney too short for a liner?

[jsandlin0803]

I have a chimney that is going to be lined with a SS flex liner. The total height from the top of the wood burner to the top of the chimney is around 13'. Is that too short to work properly without extending?

I have other threads about extending the flue, but I don't want to extend if I don't have to. I just don't have the money right now.

I can get a 6"x20' liner with insulation for $635.

I put together a kit that would extend my flue 3 feet higher on chimneylinerdepot.com and the price would be $1111.79 for everything that I would need. Big price difference there.

The $635 is for a 20' kit with everything to terminate at the top of the chimney.

The $1111.79 has the following:
- flex liner
- insulation
- tee with cap
- 8" anchor plate
- 8"x36" duratech pipe
- 8" duratech rain cap


Any ideas if just a standard liner at 13' would work okay?
If not, any ideas on cutting the cost of extending the flue?


Thanks
Jason

 

[BrotherBart]

Were it me, if I had fifteen feet from the bottom of the stove firebox to the top of the chimney I would give it a shot to see how it burns before figuring out how to extend it. Give Glenn at Chimney Liner Depot a call and ask for a quote on a 15" liner kit. I bet he has'em available even if it isn't listed on the web site.

Then if need be you could put a Extenda-Flue on it. They are made and sold by the webmaster here at hearth.com.

 

[atvdave]

Riding along.

I too have a short chimney. The people who installed my insert & liner didn't think it was a problem. My chimney is only about 12' from the exit of the insert to the top. I've been burning like this for 2 months now and never ran into any problems, as far as I know.

My chimney does meet the 3-10-2 rule

I really have never seen and draft problems, even when it's windy out side.


If you don't have draft problems what would be a benefit of extending the liner/chimney?

 

[EddyKilowatt]

What kind of stove? Is it one known for drafting well, or for drafting poorly?

I ran my Avalon Pendleton up a twelve-foot liner and chimney and there was plenty of draft to run the stove good and hot, and to operate the secondary combustion system (i.e. to suck air into the fire through the secondary pipes). Cold fire-ups were a little dicey and I nearly always burned a wad of newspaper up the flue before lighting the stove. Of more concern was that I had pretty bad smoke (and fly ash) roll-out whenever the door was opened. Gotta blame that mostly on the short chimney, though the low firebox height of that stove played a role as well. Nevertheless I heated successfully and safely for several years using that set-up.

I'm currently running a pre-EPA Jotul via direct connect to an even shorter chimney... I haven't measured but I'd be surprised if it was more than ten feet to the top. I'm actually planning a two-foot extension above the top of the flue, but that's more for roof-clearance reasons. The stove itself runs fine and puts out plenty of heat (and not too much smoke). Again, start-ups go better with help from a paper wad, and this is an older stove with easy smoke flow paths, no secondary pipes that need air sucked thru them, and a big 7" stovepipe diameter... but it works fine despite the direct connect and the stumpy chimney.

My suggestion would be "try it"... go for the 13-foot liner and see how it works. You may be fine (again, I don't know what your stove is), in which case you're ahead of the game. If you're NOT fine, you'll still probably be able to get heat out of the stove, you'll just have nuisance issues like hard starts and smoke roll-out, which you can probably deal with for long enough to save the additional $$ to extend your flue by a couple feet.

Eddy

 

[jsandlin0803]

Thanks for the replies.

The stove is a Englander Summers Heat 1800sq. ft stove from Lowes. It is model number 50-SNC13LC. I just bought it a few days ago.


It does have the tubes for secondary burn.

Also want to mention that the top of the chimney does not go 3' above where it exits. It only goes up around 8 inches or so. Would you try it considering the circumstances? The ridge is about 3.5 - 4 feet up from the chimney.

Thanks
Jason

 

[Hogwildz]

Thanks for the replies.

The stove is a Englander Summers Heat 1800sq. ft stove from Lowes. It is model number 50-SNC13LC. I just bought it a few days ago.


It does have the tubes for secondary burn.

Also want to mention that the top of the chimney does not go 3' above where it exits. It only goes up around 8 inches or so. Would you try it considering the circumstances? The ridge is about 3.5 - 4 feet up from the chimney.

Thanks
Jason

No go, get that stack at 3' above any surface within 10 foot radius of top the stack. And I believe it must be 2' above where it exits the roof at highest point.

 

[bluefrier]

I have a chimney that is going to be lined with a SS flex liner. The total height from the top of the wood burner to the top of the chimney is around 13'. Is that too short to work properly without extending?

I have other threads about extending the flue, but I don't want to extend if I don't have to. I just don't have the money right now.

I can get a 6"x20' liner with insulation for $635.

I put together a kit that would extend my flue 3 feet higher on chimneylinerdepot.com and the price would be $1111.79 for everything that I would need. Big price difference there.

The $635 is for a 20' kit with everything to terminate at the top of the chimney.

The $1111.79 has the following:
- flex liner
- insulation
- tee with cap
- 8" anchor plate
- 8"x36" duratech pipe
- 8" duratech rain cap


Any ideas if just a standard liner at 13' would work okay?
If not, any ideas on cutting the cost of extending the flue?


Thanks
Jason

I'm running the same stove and my chimney is an "evil" outside chimney with a little less than 15' of liner with no insulation.
My draft is sweet, I can even damp the stove down on a warm 50 degree day. Try that chit first and see how it runs before extending
the flue. I picked up a 15' liner on ebay (why buy a 20' kit and then cut off almost a third of it). Good luck

 

[atvdave]

Thanks for the replies.

The stove is a Englander Summers Heat 1800sq. ft stove from Lowes. It is model number 50-SNC13LC. I just bought it a few days ago.


It does have the tubes for secondary burn.

Also want to mention that the top of the chimney does not go 3' above where it exits. It only goes up around 8 inches or so. Would you try it considering the circumstances? The ridge is about 3.5 - 4 feet up from the chimney.

Thanks
Jason

No go, get that stack at 3' above any surface within 10 foot radius of top the stack. And I believe it must be 2' above where it exits the roof at highest point.

I think it's 3' minimum hight, and 2' above the roof within a 10' radius

(broken link removed to http://www.usinspect.com/car/0104TechJargChimneyHeight.asp)

 

[Hogwildz]

Thanks for the replies.

The stove is a Englander Summers Heat 1800sq. ft stove from Lowes. It is model number 50-SNC13LC. I just bought it a few days ago.


It does have the tubes for secondary burn.

Also want to mention that the top of the chimney does not go 3' above where it exits. It only goes up around 8 inches or so. Would you try it considering the circumstances? The ridge is about 3.5 - 4 feet up from the chimney.

Thanks
Jason

No go, get that stack at 3' above any surface within 10 foot radius of top the stack. And I believe it must be 2' above where it exits the roof at highest point.

I think it's 3' minimum hight, and 2' above the roof within a 10' radius

(broken link removed to http://www.usinspect.com/car/0104TechJargChimneyHeight.asp)

I stand corrected, good catch. Still, at 8" above the roof where it exits, that ain't gonna cut it.

 

[joemeintzer]

You might try calling a local chimney contractor they might have a left-over piece to suit your need. You could also try rockford chimney supply for a 15' kit