Choosing an axe / maul size.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.
Dec 17, 2013
29
Potsdam, NY
I've decided I'm going to treat myself to a bit of a luxury and buy a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe or maul. (I understand its not the most cost effective way to split wood, I'm investing a small portion of the money I've saved burning wood on something I'll enjoy).

Although I have a decent amount of axe experience from my teens, I haven't used one much since then (currently 28). I'm trying to decide what axe weight / length / type is most appropriate for me. I understand this is largely user preference, but I'm hoping people can share their experiences as a starting point for me. 6'2", 195 lbs, average fitness level. The stuff I'll be splitting will probably never be significantly larger than 18" - 20" rounds, perhaps a rare 24".

The two choices I'm looking at now are the large splitting axe and the splitting maul

Large Splitting Axe: 3.5 lbs head, 27.5" handle.(broken image removed)

Splitting Maul: 5.5 lbs head, 31.5" handle.
(broken image removed)




If I like the splitting axe or maul as much as review have lead to believe, I may also get a felling axe that will be used occasionally for its intended purpose, but also as a decoration. It'll be used for tree's anywhere from 8" - 24" Trying to decide between the Scandinavian Forest Axe and American Felling Axe

Scandinavian: 2 lbs head, 25" handle

(broken image removed)

American Felling: 3.3 lbs head, 32" or 35.5" handle.
(broken image removed)
 
Who can say what's right for someone else but I have the small splitting axe and like it. Axe is more versatile than a maul so can be used for making kindling or resplitting so that's my choice.
 
Just get a Fiskars X27, a 8 lb splitting maul from Lowes with sledge hammer and call it day ;) I split a 36 inch douglas fir with the X27 alone and I'm 6' hence my avatar picture.
 
I know the Fiskars is the most financially logical choice, but its rare that the difference between a the normal product and a hand made heirloom quality version is $100. I'm buying it as more of a present to myself than because its the logical thing to do. I'm just wondering about sizes, every other time in my life the size axe I used was whatever axe we had.
 
Love the look of the american felling axe, and the large splitting axe over the maul. I have about 30 hours in the ridiculously inefficient tool in my avatar. Wouldn't trade it for the most efficient "logical" one in the world. :)Go for it, and enjoy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Makers Mark
Of the two components in the energy required to split wood, velocity (head speed) and mass, velocity is the most important. So you want to be able to whip around whatever maul you use, and not just once but for round after round. Of course, if you have the upper body strength and stamina, more mass will help. I am thinking you would probably like an eight pound maul, give or take. I simply cannot swing an eight pounder fast enough, so I prefer my Stilh 6.6 pound. I have a couple of grand nephews - both 6'3" high school athletes - who prefer a 12 pound maul.

I have to say I like the looks of Council Tools products, from North Carolina. Like (broken link removed to http://www.counciltool.com/product.asp?pg=product&item=80MA)

You only regret buying quality once and that briefly, but you can enjoy guality for a lifetime.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Makers Mark
I've decided I'm going to treat myself to a bit of a luxury and buy a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe or maul. (I understand its not the most cost effective way to split wood, I'm investing a small portion of the money I've saved burning wood on something I'll enjoy).

Although I have a decent amount of axe experience from my teens, I haven't used one much since then (currently 28). I'm trying to decide what axe weight / length / type is most appropriate for me. I understand this is largely user preference, but I'm hoping people can share their experiences as a starting point for me. 6'2", 195 lbs, average fitness level. The stuff I'll be splitting will probably never be significantly larger than 18" - 20" rounds, perhaps a rare 24".

The two choices I'm looking at now are the large splitting axe and the splitting maul

Large Splitting Axe: 3.5 lbs head, 27.5" handle.(broken image removed)

Splitting Maul: 5.5 lbs head, 31.5" handle.
(broken image removed)




If I like the splitting axe or maul as much as review have lead to believe, I may also get a felling axe that will be used occasionally for its intended purpose, but also as a decoration. It'll be used for tree's anywhere from 8" - 24" Trying to decide between the Scandinavian Forest Axe and American Felling Axe

Scandinavian: 2 lbs head, 25" handle

(broken image removed)

American Felling: 3.3 lbs head, 32" or 35.5" handle.
(broken image removed)
Wow, I have been splitting wood for a long time with a variety of tools and I have to say, these are some fine looking tools. I have had Stolz Monster mauls, generic mauls, fiskars, and the list goes on, but those are some fine looking tools. I know I am going to get beat up here, but I have always loved a finely made tool, and these certainly look to be good ones!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Makers Mark
Wow, I have been splitting wood for a long time with a variety of tools and I have to say, these are some fine looking tools. I have had Stolz Monster mauls, generic mauls, fiskars, and the list goes on, but those are some fine looking tools. I know I am going to get beat up here, but I have always loved a finely made tool, and these certainly look to be good ones!

If you appreciate a well made tool, a visit to their website (Gransfors Bruks) is pretty cool.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firewood Bandit
Of the two components in the energy required to split wood, velocity (head speed) and mass, velocity is the most important. So you want to be able to whip around whatever maul you use, and not just once but for round after round. Of course, if you have the upper body strength and stamina, more mass will help. I am thinking you would probably like an eight pound maul, give or take. I simply cannot swing an eight pounder fast enough, so I prefer my Stilh 6.6 pound. I have a couple of grand nephews - both 6'3" high school athletes - who prefer a 12 pound maul.

I have to say I like the looks of Council Tools products, from North Carolina. Like (broken link removed to http://www.counciltool.com/product.asp?pg=product&item=80MA)

You only regret buying quality once and that briefly, but you can enjoy guality for a lifetime.

I think the whipping around of a light weight axe/maul style of splitting is dangerous. I prefer a much more vertical motion using my strength for lifting a heavier tool and dropping it straight down through the wood, bending the knees slightly and bringing the handle level with the head at impact. Each stroke is much more predictable, and an easy rhythm with no ricochets is achieved. I also vote for wooden handled tools being pleasant to use and because I like to hang my own handles.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gerry100
Mouse, I have the large splitting ax and the maul and they are great! I use the maul on bigger rounds and ax on smaller. Be careful they are razor sharp and unless you hit ground they will stay that way. I have split 5 ten ft ricks with mine.
 
I think that metal collar near the head would be a source of constant frustration, for me. When considering any hand tool refined over hundreds of years of very heavy usage, I'm very skeptical of any recent addition or modification made by modern occasional users, who might not benefit from the wisdom of those who used these tools all day every day in generations past.

Yes, I know this company has been making axes and mauls for 100 years, but the guy who came up with that sheetmetal collar probably wasn't there that entire time. Anyone old enough to remember when axes were made and used in high volume for forestry work is now retired.
 
Last edited:
I think that metal collar near the head would be a source of constant frustration, for me. When considering any hand tool refined over hundreds of years of very heavy usage, I'm very skeptical of any recent addition or modification made by modern occasional users, who might not benefit from the wisdom of those who used these tools all day every day in generations past.

Yes, I know this company has been making axes and mauls for 100 years, but the guy who came up with that sheetmetal collar probably wasn't there that entire time. Anyone old enough to remember when axes were made and used in high volume for forestry work is now retired.


I'm suspicious of that collar as well. Harder to affix a new handle and would foster dry rot.
 
I think the whipping around of a light weight axe/maul style of splitting is dangerous. I prefer a much more vertical motion using my strength for lifting a heavier tool and dropping it straight down through the wood, bending the knees slightly and bringing the handle level with the head at impact. Each stroke is much more predictable, and an easy rhythm with no ricochets is achieved. I also vote for wooden handled tools being pleasant to use and because I like to hang my own handles.

Probably a poor choice of words on my part - I do not use, nor advocate a roundhouse style swing. Like you, I use a vertical motion, coming directly over the top of my head and straight down into the log. Nevertheless, my point about impact velocity is still apposite, and if I use a heavier maul I just cannot get enough speed on my swing.
 
I'm suspicious of that collar as well. Harder to affix a new handle and would foster dry rot.
it is most likely there to try and survive a missed swing or hard wood rub going thru the wood.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Makers Mark
it is most likely there to try and survive a missed swing or hard wood rub going thru the wood.
Understood, but the fix to the missed swing breakage is putting the tool in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. I could clip the wings off a fly with my favorite 8 lb. maul, without hurting him, if he'd just stay still long enough.
 
Love them collars. Because of:

1. Tiredness
2. Beer
3. Tiredness + beer
 
  • Like
Reactions: EMB5530
...I could clip the wings off a fly with my favorite 8 lb. maul, without hurting him...

[Hearth.com] Choosing an axe / maul size.
 
How much chopping are you doing? Swinging a 6lbs maul for a few hours will do you in. Where the splitting ax at half the weight at least you will be able to chop in consecutive days. My suggestion is buy a good splitting ax. When it comes to a maul just get a cheap one.
 
I think that metal collar near the head would be a source of constant frustration, for me. When considering any hand tool refined over hundreds of years of very heavy usage, I'm very skeptical of any recent addition or modification made by modern occasional users, who might not benefit from the wisdom of those who used these tools all day every day in generations past.

Yes, I know this company has been making axes and mauls for 100 years, but the guy who came up with that sheetmetal collar probably wasn't there that entire time. Anyone old enough to remember when axes were made and used in high volume for forestry work is now retired.
I believe axe collars have been used for a very long time. If you don't like it you don't like it but it's not a new addition AFAIK.
 
Last edited:
The metal collars have saved the handles on mine several times. Wood doesn't always split straight and beer equals aim maybe off. Coming from someone who has bought umpteen handles over past 30 yrs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tfdchief
The metal collars have saved the handles on mine several times. Wood doesn't always split straight and beer equals aim maybe off. Coming from someone who has bought umpteen handles over past 30 yrs.
Hey Makers Mark, off topic but my boss is a Makers Mark man! Sips it straight ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Makers Mark
Good stuff especially on a cold nite in front of a warm fire.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tfdchief
When I was a kid (12 - 15) my grandpa made us fell trees with double bit axes......I have often thought about doing so again (but that Stihl just doesn't like to sit).

If you want my two cents. Get the splitting axe. It is a fine tool. Mauls work better on stuff that is really stringy or tough, but a nice axe like that will do wonders on straight grained wood. It is a real beauty.

As for the american vs. scandanavian.....I would personally go scandanavian. It is lighter and shorter. If you are trying to fell a tree by hand, that smaller weight is much easier to swing and get good bites into the tree. The shorter handle is nice if you are near other trees.

Those are really nice tools. Makes me want to add to my collection of wood cutting/splitting gear.
 
I agree the ax will split most the maul is good for really tough stuff. They make a 31" handle large splitting ax. I have been really looking at those.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.