This has been driving me more than a little crazy in the past few days. I'm installing clapboards (or trying to) on a vertical wall that is intersected by a roof with an approximately 10 degree slope. There has got to be an easier way than climbing a ladder and trial fitting each clapboard section as I have been doing. How do you calculate the length of each clapboard and the angled cut at the bottom? Thanks for any help.
clapboard installation
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By now you probably have it done, but I would establish the angles and would cut each piece a little longer than you need and test fit each one, mark it and re-cut it. There is probably a way of doing it mathmatically, but for a small area, it's probably not worth it and it would probably not be as accurate as doing one piece at a time. You may also need to adjust your angles now and then as your roof angles are probably not perfect.
Bill
Bill
There is a formula if you're trying to hit the studs sorry but I forgot it but when I first got out of the army in '71 there was a recession and the only job I could find was applying horizontal cedar siding at 14.50 a square that had to pass a bank inspection.
Just measure the length of a couple of courses below and subtract the length of the top course from the length of the lower course. The difference is the change in length from each course as you go up the wall.
You should be able to get a good idea of the fit and finish after a couple of pieces.
Plus even with a 1/4" or 3/8" change in exposure, you will not see the difference from the ground.
J.P.
PS. Or just draw a line at the end of the board to make a right triangle of the end cut. Measure down from the top of the board for the proper exposure. Then make a new right triangle from the intersection of the hypotenuese and the exposure line. Measure the base of the new triangle and multiply by 2 and that will also give you the change in length from course to course.
It is easier to show you than write it down. Sorry if my instructions are unclear.
Give me some time and I could come up with a couple of more ways.
You should be able to get a good idea of the fit and finish after a couple of pieces.
Plus even with a 1/4" or 3/8" change in exposure, you will not see the difference from the ground.
J.P.
PS. Or just draw a line at the end of the board to make a right triangle of the end cut. Measure down from the top of the board for the proper exposure. Then make a new right triangle from the intersection of the hypotenuese and the exposure line. Measure the base of the new triangle and multiply by 2 and that will also give you the change in length from course to course.
It is easier to show you than write it down. Sorry if my instructions are unclear.
Give me some time and I could come up with a couple of more ways.
Cut a piece that that fits well. Make a line at 4" up from bottom (ussually a 4" exposure). Sit yor next piece on top of the cut piece with it's bottom on the line. Mark the uncut piece where the bottom intersects with the angle cut. You may have to adjust once in a while. It makes it so much easier if you have 2 people. Hope this isn't too confusing.
fraxinus problem is that he's doing siding off a ladder...I sympathize with our colleague because that's tough to do it that way...if he was on a scaffold his saw would be at his side and he'd be making production...at this point he's up and down all the time. It's frustration city.
A belated thank you to everyone for your suggestions. The clapboarding job (which was largely piecing in new clapboards at the roof intersection on two opposing walls) is thankfully completed and I'm old enough to know I'll never have to do it again - the repairs will last longer than I will.
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