Cleaning question w/oval connector.

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bsa0021

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Oct 1, 2008
406
Ohio
Is there an issue cleaning a liner that is round at the stove, oval through damper, back to round up the chimney? I want to be able to clean this myself.
Thanks!
 
What size is your flue pipe? You could clean from below (perhaps if it is accessible) up to the oval pipe and then clean from the top down to the oval pipe. Follow this method up with a smaller diameter brush just to make sure you did not create a plug of ash/soot at the ovalized part. Or oversize your round brush (using a flexible poly bristle brush) and clean the entire flue from top to bottom or bottom to top (which ever is easier). Hope that helps!
 
The installer uses 6" round and oval and oval boots according to the estimate. Isn't standard practice to use oval pipe throught the damper?
 
Every installation can be different and present different challenges for the installer. In your case it sound like you have a 6" round outlet on your stove and they converted to an oval to pass through the damper and then back to round. Is your entire chimney lined? Do you have a flexible liner? It makes no difference really now that it is installed. If you use a larger brush with more flexible bristles it should not be a problem. Barring a buildup of creosote in your flue, more flexible bristles work just fine for cleaning. Does the stove vent out the top or the back of the appliance? If from the back, and you have a 90 degree elbow installed, just make sure that you clean this section out and vacuum all the debris as this can build up and choke off your draft.
 
I am in the process of buying a PE Super and I want to ensure that the installer is going to complete the job properly (Sorry for not being clear). The stove vents out the top with a 6" flue I have a lined chimney but I am having a insulated Olympic liner installed along with a block-off plate kit (at the damper) The installer came out for a job quote he showed me the oval section that will go through the damper which will then connect to both the stove and liner with 6" adapters.
'
 
Sounds like he is doing it the right way. Without cutting out a section of the damper (extremely difficult if not impossible) the round pipe must get ovalized to pass through the damper and back to round... This is very common as almost all dampers are less than 6" wide which results in all retrofits and relinings requiring an ovalization of flexible liner or if using rigid pipe, then boots are necessary to make the shape change.
 
I feel better about the installer now. Thanks for answering my questions.
 
I have the same setup. I installed a direct connect for a few years and switched to a full liner. When I installed the full liner I used the oval pipe and block-off plate from the direct connect to pass thru the damper. Bought the brush and rods from Northline Express. They pass the round-oval-round every time.. (cleaning from the bottom up)
 
CK-1 said:
I have the same setup. I installed a direct connect for a few years and switched to a full liner. When I installed the full liner I used the oval pipe and block-off plate from the direct connect to pass thru the damper. Bought the brush and rods from Northline Express. They pass the round-oval-round every time.. (cleaning from the bottom up)

CK, Which brush did you use from Northline? 6" Poly , Prefab or not?
Thanks!
 
bsa0021 said:
CK-1 said:
I have the same setup. I installed a direct connect for a few years and switched to a full liner. When I installed the full liner I used the oval pipe and block-off plate from the direct connect to pass thru the damper. Bought the brush and rods from Northline Express. They pass the round-oval-round every time.. (cleaning from the bottom up)

CK, Which brush did you use from Northline? 6" Poly , Prefab or not?
Thanks!


1 - 6" Round Prefab Poly Chimney Brush
7 - 4' Rod .440" Diameter - 3/8" NPT
 
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