Clearance Question #8769328649876432

[The Dali Lima]

OK... so I have an Jotul Oslo and I'm figuring out the clearances. A few questions...

#1, is the clearance for the rear measured to the ACTUAL stove back, or the rear-venting collar? The stove itself is only 17" deep, but when you add the collar for the rear vent you are at 28". Also, I ordered a rear heat shield, so would that also be included in the calculation?

#2, I am planning on building out by 10" from the wall for a fake "fireplace" with a mantel sitting on top of the 10". I am building out of metal studs and Duroc. I can still measure my clearances to the original wall, and not the new wall since the new wall is non-combustable, right? For example, if I were planning on putting the stove 13" from the original wall (and the clearance is 10" per the manual) and build my fake wall 10" off the original wall my stove is actually on 3" from the new wall (which is made of non-combustable material) - would that still be within the clearances set forth by the manual?

 

[The Dali Lima]

Nothing?

 

[rob bennett]

You need to measure from last piece of metal sticking out of the back of the stove, I had the same question and asked the dealer.

 

[The Dali Lima]

Thanks, yeah, that's kinda what I thought.

Also, any thoughts on the clearance issue?

#2, I am planning on building out by 10” from the wall for a fake “fireplace” with a mantel sitting on top of the 10”. I am building out of metal studs and Duroc. I can still measure my clearances to the original wall, and not the new wall since the new wall is non-combustable, right? For example, if I were planning on putting the stove 13” from the original wall (and the clearance is 10” per the manual) and build my fake wall 10” off the original wall my stove is actually on 3” from the new wall (which is made of non-combustable material) - would that still be within the clearances set forth by the manual?

 

[begreen]

That's correct Steve. It's the clearance to combustibles that matters. If you can subtly ventilate that wall with a slot at the bottom and top, all the better. Be sure to document the construction with pictures for insurance and inspection. Once the durock goes up, there's no way one will know whether there's metal or wood studs behind it, (unless those added slots allow one to get down low and see the studs).

Also, will the mantle be non-combustible so that clearances there are not an issue?

 

[The Dali Lima]

There will be ventilation at the bottom and top, and I'll definitely be taking photos

The mantle will clear the Jotul mantel height (which is 30") and will not be directly above the stove anyway (ok, maybe the last inch of the mantle will be, but the rest will be sitting on the top of the durock). But in any event, it will be more than 30" from the stove.

 

[The Dali Lima]

Oh, and thanks for the information. I've learned so much from this site it is amazing. I expect to put the hearth in over the next 3 days so I'll be posting photos shortly.

 

[begreen]

Sounds good. I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

 

[jayheel]

Oh, and thanks for the information. I've learned so much from this site it is amazing. I expect to put the hearth in over the next 3 days so I'll be posting photos shortly.

Hey Steve, if I understand correct you are building a fake mantel so your wood stove looks like a fireplace. Is that correct? the oslo is a free standing not an insert I believe. I am looking at doing something similar, would love to see your pics. Did you have a pre-existing chimney?

thanks

 

[mayor mcheese]

Anybody do this yet.,.Would love to see some pictures