Clearance question front of stove/not hearth

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BuoyTen

Member
Jan 6, 2015
12
CT shore
I do have the proper floor protection, and the protective wall with air space, including rear and bottom shields. My question is, how close could a wooden post be situated at the front of the stove. Not directly in front- but somewhat diagonal. All clearances so far have been attained through the manual. Jotul F100.

Thanks. BT
 
Your manual states 16" in front (from glass) but I would be cautious and not go any closer than 3ft
 
Typically 36" is what they want to combustible objects in the room.
 
That's not often documented. Diagonal front distance even less so. I think 48" front clearance is required is for uncertified stoves. Measure the surface temp of the post after the fire has been burning hot for hours. If it's over 170F consider shielding it too.
 
The hickory post is 24" at it's closest point from the glass.

I have been burning the stove in this configuration 24/7 for 18 months now- temp of post gets near 100 degrees.

Insurance underwriter did not like it.

Thanks for all insight.

BT
 
Perhaps the underwriter would be satisfied if the post was shielded. This shield could be made of metal (painted or maybe copper?) with an airgap behind it.
 
That's not often documented. Diagonal front distance even less so. I think 48" front clearance is required is for uncertified stoves. Measure the surface temp of the post after the fire has been burning hot for hours. If it's over 170F consider shielding it too.
Many installation manuals state that furniture, curtains, etc should be 36" away. I think this would fall into that category. But you will never see this particular senerio in a manual.
 
The key word is "should".

You're not moving the post so if the underwriter or you are unhappy with a shielding plan then pick a better insurance company. I switched companies for a woodstove issue a few years ago.
 
It is true this scenario is not addressed anywhere- at least that justifies the asking of a rather trivial question on my part : )

True also I could wrap the post, except it is in place both structurally AND aesthetically.

And Yes, I'm not moving the post. Although perhaps I can adjust it to provide for 36".

I could also put in a steel post for the upcoming photo-documentation.

And lastly, this insurance company has actually saved me money on my flood and auto and business policies thus far. I shop my policies yearly due to the fact I have paid out over almost a million dollars in premiums over 30 years and have never had a claim.

Rant over. BT
 
What is the post used for? My wood dining room table and chairs are about 5 feet in front of my stove door and they get warm when the stove has been burning for a while. Nowhere near combustible warm but my concerns are more for the wood drying a and splitting. 24 inches seems really, really close.
 
Insurance rant well recieced here! Believe there well may be others here who have also spent a fortune on insurance for little or no reason. Bussiness owners here will really get a chuckle out of this post (as well as everyone else).
 
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I shop my policies yearly due to the fact I have paid out over almost a million dollars in premiums over 30 years and have never had a claim.

I've also never made a claim on any insurance ever. I've only been paying for only 23 years though. I do not see this as a reason to shop and change every year. What makes me shop and change is when some stupid underwriter comes up with a stupid rule that does not work for me.
 
A nice shield could be made out of copper, anodized or painted steel, etc.. With a little creativity it might even enhance the post.
 
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A nice shield could be made out of copper, anodized or painted steel, etc.. With a little creativity it might even enhance the post.

^^^ That ^^^

I did something similar for the mantle over my insert. Installation met code, yet I didn't like the fact that the wood mantle was getting pretty warm directly over the stove. So I made a simple shield out of aluminum, folded the edges so it wasn't sharp, sprayed it black and mounted it on the underside of the mantle. Just enough air gap to allow some ventilation, and angled to direct the rising heat away from the mantle. You can't even see it unless you're looking for it.

Maybe not required by code, but my common sense insisted. :)
 
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I agree with Chimney Smoke and Begreen. I also like Iml999's approach. While the post seems rather close I see no reason why the problem could not be mitigated with a rustic application of some sort of sheet metal. I would think copper would look mighty cool, but then I'm not living there either.
 
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