Combustible clearance

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

steven90

New Member
Dec 14, 2018
32
Barboursville WV
I was wandering can I put up a piece of sheet metal on a 1" furring strip or maybe buy a free standing heat shield to go around the stove. The wall temps get ridiculously high when I have the stove fire going pretty good. I'm at the min right now with min clearance at 8" according to manufacturer specs if I add furring strip it will take that down to 7" would this be ok. I dont really want to move the stove but if i have to i will.

Pic below is my corner installation clearence of min 8"
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Combustible clearance
    20181114_023851.webp
    42.5 KB · Views: 137
  • [Hearth.com] Combustible clearance
    Screenshot_20181103-203851_Drive.webp
    46.3 KB · Views: 125
For a wall shield to be effective it must be entirely non-combustible. Wood furring strips would not be ok, but metal ones would be ok or use 1" standoffs. The standoffs can be made by cutting up some 3/8" copper pipe into 1" sections or you can buy 1" ceramic standoffs.
The wall shield will need to be 1" off the floor and open at the top so that air can freely convect behind it. You don't have to move the stove with this setup. The clearance to combustible is still to the wall behind the shield.
 
  • Like
Reactions: steven90
When I saw the Ansul I thought WTH? LOL . Dont give the Gov any more ideas pertaining to wood stove installations.
 
For a wall shield to be effective it must be entirely non-combustible. Wood furring strips would not be ok, but metal ones would be ok or use 1" standoffs. The standoffs can be made by cutting up some 3/8" copper pipe into 1" sections or you can buy 1" ceramic standoffs.
The wall shield will need to be 1" off the floor and open at the top so that air can freely convect behind it. You don't have to move the stove with this setup. The clearance to combustible is still to the wall behind the shield.


Thanks for the info I appreciate it
 
For a wall shield to be effective it must be entirely non-combustible. Wood furring strips would not be ok, but metal ones would be ok or use 1" standoffs. The standoffs can be made by cutting up some 3/8" copper pipe into 1" sections or you can buy 1" ceramic standoffs.
The wall shield will need to be 1" off the floor and open at the top so that air can freely convect behind it. You don't have to move the stove with this setup. The clearance to combustible is still to the wall behind the shield.
1/2” emt conduit would be cheaper...
 
Yes, that will work too. Some folks use hat metal for furring strips or metal studs laid flat. Another method is to use cement board. One can create 3" x 3' or 5' strips from 1/2" cement board. Double them up to create 1" furring strips. Then attach cement board or metal on top.