Just bought a new hp42 alpine. All hooked up ready to go. Running diagnostics mode to check the exhaust. Manual states that the bubble next to vacuum should be darkened, it is not. I bypassed the vacuum switch by removing the 2 wires and connecting them with a jumper. Vacuum bubble turned dark. Assumed it was a bad switch so had another delivered. Same problem exists. Comfortbilt tech was emailing my wife and wanted us to go into safe mode and all this other stuff to run it without using the vacuum switch. It's brand new and I don't want to rig it to work. It should just work the way it is intended. I checked the exhaust for blockages and none exist. Rubber hose from vacuum switch is also clear and I tapped on the switch to free up the insides. I have googled and googled with no answers. I would hate to return it as it was kind of a pain to get in the house and get installed. Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix it? Wifey getting nervous with cold weather coming
Comfortbilt hp42 diagnostics mode vacuum help
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Does the exhaust fan (combustion fan) come on?
Is the door closed and latched?
Is the hopper lid closed?
Is the ash drawer closed and latched?
Welcome to the forum
Is the door closed and latched?
Is the hopper lid closed?
Is the ash drawer closed and latched?
Welcome to the forum
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
Check your manual to see if the vacuum can be measured in your stove. If you look at my Harman P43 instructions that would be an example. You can measure using clear hose filled with water, or purchase a 0-1 inch vacuum gauge
Yes, exhaust fan comes on, door is closed and latched, hopper lid is closed. This does not have an "ash drawer". It has an ash pot that is seated properly
Make sure the silicone hose to the switch is not crimped or plugged,
And the connection at the stove is clear. Make sure that the air system
is clear from the intake to the exhaust termination.
Is your house well sealed ? Do you have an OAK (outside air kit)?
And the connection at the stove is clear. Make sure that the air system
is clear from the intake to the exhaust termination.
Is your house well sealed ? Do you have an OAK (outside air kit)?
All of that seems to be ok, no crimps or blockages anywhere. Yes I have an OAK, also seems to be clear.
Does the stove drop pellets and ignite, keep feeding, and the circ fan comes on?
In other words, does the stove start up and run, making heat?
In other words, does the stove start up and run, making heat?
Well, no. I have yet to put pellets in it as I bought this from Lowes and according to them, if we fire this up they will not take it back. Also, I was not yet at that step. I was doing the initial diagnostics test which tests all exhaust, feed, vacuum etc. The exhaust is extremely quiet(normal?) And does not look like it spinning very fast. I went outside and could not feel any air movement from the exhaust but it is not blocked. With a flashlight I see a clear path to the back of the stove.
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Also noticed slight condensation droplets where the exhaust is attached to the stove, could that play a part in this? I used the recommended silicone and fastened the 3" adapter with a screw(which i also siliconed)
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
You could test the pressure switch by disconnecting the hose from the stove and sucking on it while someone watches the screen to see if the DOT fills. Other than that I'd try to getting into the Set Combustion menu to have a look. There are probably some post on here if you search. The only other thing I'd try is putting pellets in or covering the auger hole opening to see if you are losing vacuum there. As a last resort you could hook up 120V to the combustion blower with a fused lamp cord (5A,120V) and that will make it run at 100% for sure.
If the combustion fan is not pulling enough air from the firebox, the vacuum switch will not open
To allow the auger motor to work, drop pellets in the firebox. Then again, it takes or should take
very little vac to make that switch work. To me, if you jump the vac switch and the circle goes dark,
the switch is bad, or the stove leaks air into the fire box, or the combustion fan is not working as it should
Are the wires in the correct positions on the vac switch? The wiring diagram for your stove is the worst I have ever seen
To allow the auger motor to work, drop pellets in the firebox. Then again, it takes or should take
very little vac to make that switch work. To me, if you jump the vac switch and the circle goes dark,
the switch is bad, or the stove leaks air into the fire box, or the combustion fan is not working as it should
Are the wires in the correct positions on the vac switch? The wiring diagram for your stove is the worst I have ever seen
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
I only speed scanned the manual Johneh, but the way I read it that diagnostic menu is for turning things on, and to look at the status of the switches ie Force combustion blower on, then look at the vac /press dot which should "fill in" .That is where the OP is stuck in the startup guide. For a brand new stove it's strange, as I'm sure they did all that testing at the factory.
I did a system reset. Vacuum switch dot went dark. To see of it was a fluke, I turned the stove off and back on. Dot not dark. Tried reset again multiple times and cannot duplicate.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
Your switch is good .Double check it's still working- perJohneh not sure if it could be damaged.....a gentle suck should be fine
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
It's up to you, but it would be safe to add pellets and try a run. Or try blocking the auger hole to simulate having pellets. Just can't touch the auger in case you pull it in.
Edit - if with pellets you still don't have vacuum, the auger will not go anyway
Noticed the threaded elbow that the tube connects to was loose. Tightened her up.....wouldn't ya know it, broke that right off. Omg this stove!!
ARC
Minister of Fire
Empty hopper can defiantly cause stove to think loss of vacuum.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
Broke half the threads off. Based on the setup, nut on the outside and nut on the inside, i say this does not need to be air tight? I'll find a thinner nut or a washer even, that should suffice. At least we get a 7pm game for once, lets go Toronto!
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
The air hose and fitting must be 100% airtight. 7pm ? Not sure what time zone that is. I am looking at 9pm Atlantic. I am hoping for TO to win big time. What a team. I'm not a sports guy at all I admit, but I appreciate that the guys are trying their best to win for Canada !
I can't imagine the 2 nuts made that air tight? I cut a half inch pc of the vacuum hose, put that where the outside nut would go, put the nut in the inside and tightened her up good on the remaining threads. Seems to be a better seal than 2 nuts. Ahh, 7pm is pregame, 8pm first pitch(eastern time). On the verge of taking this back to Lowes and going to Frost and Flame(an actual pellet stove store as opposed to a box store).
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