Confused Whitfield

[jcleese01]

I have a Whitfield Optima 3 insert that is six years old. This is the first year I have problems with it. And do I have problems. The stove will start and run for about 20-30 minutes and then go out. During the burn session the fire will burn nice like it should then die right down to almost nothing then feed more pellets and then be OK for a short period. So I figured the flame sensor was the culprit. So I replaced the sensor and cleaned the lens. No luck, same problem. So after checking the forum, I read of problems similar to mine and they suggested changing the 2 thermal switches, so I did, no difference. I made sure the stove is good and clean, the flue is clean, checked the pressure switch and that is OK. Now I don't know what to try other than replace the control, which everyone knows is a bit pricey, so I figure I would see if anyone had any suggestions that maybe I missed before I take the big plunge. Any suggestions at this point will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Charlie

 

[jtakeman]

Welcome Charlie,

I too am from northwestern CT. Glad you could join us here. Lots of info and friendl people. There are a few knowledgeable Whitfield owners and repair people that will chime in and help you.

I just wanted to be the first to welcome you.

Hope you get it going soon,
jay

 

[krooser]

Are you sure you've cleaned out all of the ash that's in the stove behind the firebox? If the stove has cleanouts, tap the inside of the firebox with a small hammer. I bet you'll see lots of ash falling into the ashpan. Use a long bottle brush or coathangar to dislodge the built-up ash and get it vac'd out.

If that helps, use the "leafblower trick" to really clean out the stove...

 

[jcleese01]

Thank you for welcoming me to the forum, and thank you for the recommendation on cleaning the stove. At lunch time I will go home and give that stove the cleaning of a lifetime and let you guys know how I make out.

 

[Delta-T]

Usually when you get the shutdown right at the 30 minute mark its indicative of the Proof of Fire switch.If its on the 15 minute mark its usually indicative of the photo eye (I could have those reversed photoeye 30 min., POF 15min.). Double check to make sure its looking straight into the flame and theres not some sawdust or something in the chute obscuring its line of sight. It can also happen that if you have a bit too much combustion air that the pellets burn up faster than they feed eventually leading to burning itself out. This is not uncommon when running on the lowest setting. Just close up the damper a bit to solve that one. Good luck.

 

[lpgreg]

Update - 12-'03: Your Whitfield pellet stove runs for only 30 min. then turns off even with pellets burning in the pot. Easy fix! Need a "low heat temp" switch. Gotta have heat. You can (for a couple of days) jump over the switch screwed on the exhaust fan to keep the stove running until the part arrives. Click here to see photos of how to do this (assuming you have tools, knowledge and the replacement part)


http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm

 

[jcleese01]

I gave that stove a cleaning that it may never recover from, I know it will take me awhile to recover myself. On the Optima 3 there is no proof of fire switch, just the fire eye (replaced) and two over temp switches (also replaced). Stove is still shutting down after about 20-30 minutes. When the stove burns it burns great, just like when it was new, but then it just stops feeding and dies out. Still open for recommendations, Charlie

 

[dandb819]

Have you put a meter on the leads going to the auger motor to see if it is still getting a signal to run from the control card? Have you ran it with the pressure switch hose pulled off just to see if it will run any longer with that pulled?

 

[rap69ri]

Just had a Whitfield T300-P doing the same thing, and it turned out the previous owner had the damper frozen in the full open position. How's your damper working? You cleaned your stove, but did you pull out the fake brick and doors behind the brick to clean?

 

[hearthtools]

Update - 12-'03: Your Whitfield pellet stove runs for only 30 min. then turns off even with pellets burning in the pot. Easy fix! Need a "low heat temp" switch. Gotta have heat. You can (for a couple of days) jump over the switch screwed on the exhaust fan to keep the stove running until the part arrives. Click here to see photos of how to do this (assuming you have tools, knowledge and the replacement part)


http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm

This stove does not have a Low limit it uses that dumb photo eye for proof of fire.

 

[hearthtools]

Update - 12-'03: Your Whitfield pellet stove runs for only 30 min. then turns off even with pellets burning in the pot. Easy fix! Need a "low heat temp" switch. Gotta have heat. You can (for a couple of days) jump over the switch screwed on the exhaust fan to keep the stove running until the part arrives. Click here to see photos of how to do this (assuming you have tools, knowledge and the replacement part)


http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm

This stove does not have a Low limit it uses that dumb photo eye for proof of fire.

photo eye test
http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/photo_eye_test.pdf

 

[jcleese01]

So from a few posts ago, I checked for voltage at the auger motor, voltage is present at start-up, then is present for a couple of more times before the fire burns out.
When I cleaned the stove, I removed everything that was screwed down, and cleaned every nook and cranny.
Tonight I will go home with my trusty DVOM and test that fire eye. maybe it is adjusted improperly, hopefully that is all that is wrong with it. I will let you know how I make out tomorrow. Thanks for the advice, Charlie

 

[jcleese01]

Hey Doc, I have tried to measure the voltage several different ways, and without a pic or a description on how to put the jumper wires in place I am at a loss. All I can get is either 5 volts or 0 volts. So if you could try to describe how to place the jumper and the meter it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again and I hope all of you have a great Thanksgiving, Charlie

 

[jcleese01]

After much deliberation and a few aggravating nights we finally got it. Many thanks to the infinite wisdom of Doc for if not for him I would still be cold. Here is the solution to the enormously confusing problem: BROKEN WIRE. The yellow wires from the photoeye to the control, one of the wires had a break in it about and 1 1/2 from the eye. Replaced the two wires and now the stove runs like new. Thanks to everyone who helped, Charlie

 

[hearthtools]

After much deliberation and a few aggravating nights we finally got it. Many thanks to the infinite wisdom of Doc for if not for him I would still be cold. Here is the solution to the enormously confusing problem: BROKEN WIRE. The yellow wires from the photoeye to the control, one of the wires had a break in it about and 1 1/2 from the eye. Replaced the two wires and now the stove runs like new. Thanks to everyone who helped, Charlie

Happy Dance

 

[rap69ri]

After much deliberation and a few aggravating nights we finally got it. Many thanks to the infinite wisdom of Doc for if not for him I would still be cold. Here is the solution to the enormously confusing problem: BROKEN WIRE. The yellow wires from the photoeye to the control, one of the wires had a break in it about and 1 1/2 from the eye. Replaced the two wires and now the stove runs like new. Thanks to everyone who helped, Charlie

Congratulations, broken wires are a pain to troubleshoot.

Enjoy the heat.

 

[joedirt]

gotta love a cheap fix