Converting a multi-fuel to woodburning

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scaryflame

New Member
Apr 15, 2023
54
Ireland
Hello folks!

I've had a multifuel stove for about a year. I only burn wood and only intend to ever burn wood (in hindsight I should've got a woodburner, next time!).

This is my stove: http://henleystoves.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/MANUAL_ARKLOW_5_2018_FINAL.pdf (I'm aware it's not a great stove :))

For efficiency, I'd like to make it more like a woodburner, ie. burning on a flat surface rather than directly on the grill that would air coming in underneath etc. I did stick some firebricks on the grill plate but it eleveates the wood too high over the fuel retainer (3 in pdf).

So I'm thinking of removing the grill plate entirely and just lining the bottom of the stove with firebricks. I'd also need to put some on the left & right side as the left/right firebricks(13 & 14 in PDF) only come down about halfway.

Am I wasting my time considering there is a vent (1 in pdf) that I can close but I'm sure still let's some air in?

Basically, I'm sticking with this stove for the time being, wood only. Is this a good/stupid idea?

Thanks!
 
I'd just take the grate out and fill the bottom up with ashes and go from there. Also avoids any ash door leaks if any. You'd have to scoop ashes out from now on, but I find that easier anyway.

The point is to kill all air from the bottom, if possible.
 
I’m going p second letting fill up with ash. How much control do you do you have of primary air? And secondary? With a good bed of coals can you get 80-90% of the flames at or near the top of the fire box?
 
I suppose the reason I'm talking about firebricks is because and this may be stupid, I'd be afraid the fire would be too hot for the bottom of the stove or the sides. No?

Edit: It's an EPA rated stove so my understanding is you're not 100% losing the primary/secondaries. Also with regards getting the flames near the top of the firebox - is that what I'm ultimately aiming to do? Get them to hit the baffle plate?
 
I suppose the reason I'm talking about firebricks is because and this may be stupid, I'd be afraid the fire would be too hot for the bottom of the stove or the sides. No?

Edit: It's an EPA rated stove so my understanding is you're not 100% losing the primary/secondaries. Also with regards getting the flames near the top of the firebox - is that what I'm ultimately aiming to do? Get them to hit the baffle plate?
Yes you want flames on/from the baffle and from the tertiary air. It was designed as a multi fuel that means wood too correct? If you are concerned you could fill up the bottom with sand.
 
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Interesting, I never knew you wanted the flames to be hitting the baffle, always wondered if that meant the flames were too high considering it's an insert...

Yes correct, it's a multifuel so can take wood too. So the bottom would be safe enough then and the sides? If you can see on the pdf I posted above, it's half side bricks (well, from the grill up), brick at the back and then nothing on the bottom bar the grill.
 
Interesting, I never knew you wanted the flames to be hitting the baffle, always wondered if that meant the flames were too high considering it's an insert...

Yes correct, it's a multifuel so can take wood too. So the bottom would be safe enough then and the sides? If you can see on the pdf I posted above, it's half side bricks (well, from the grill up), brick at the back and then nothing on the bottom bar the grill.
I would get a thermometer. Flue temperature is best. It can be done on an insert.
 
How?

My stove is like this: https://sprattfireplaces.ie/shop/st...s/inset-stoves/henley-arklow-5kw-inset-stove/

I have an infra-red heat gun, I just point it at the top of the door and base my heat on that.
You can drill and insert thermocouple probe I use the Auber at200 wire would need to be routed out of the surround.

image.jpg
 
Coal fires are hotter for the stove floor than wood fires..

Air from below is needed for coal, and wood fires work best with air from above.
So fill the bottom up with ash or sand, and your stove should work fine.
 
Coal fires are hotter for the stove floor than wood fires..

Air from below is needed for coal, and wood fires work best with air from above.
So fill the bottom up with ash or sand, and your stove should work fine.
Thanks and this is probably a stupid question but here we go... if I line the bottom with sand, have a few fires and then go to remove the ash, I'd imagine I'll be scooping up sand.

So is it just a case of replacing / topping up the sand every now and again?
 
Thanks and this is probably a stupid question but here we go... if I line the bottom with sand, have a few fires and then go to remove the ash, I'd imagine I'll be scooping up sand.

So is it just a case of replacing / topping up the sand every now and again?
I leave 2” of ash in the bottom of my stove. I have an ash grate and pan. So yes. you would but leave some ash. Ash is a better insulator than sand. The more insulated a firebox the better the stove runs. Hence the fire bricks. Don’t over think this part. Concentrate on dry wood and clean burns.
 
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You could top it off indeed.
I'm not sure if sand would lead to more clinkers in the ash (fused clumps of ash, ascribed to silica and other mineralsl content).
So I'd do ash instead of sand as ebs-p recommends
 
I leave 2” of ash in the bottom of my stove. I have an ash grate and pan. So yes. you would but leave some ash. Ash is a better insulator than sand. The more insulated a firebox the better the stove runs. Hence the fire bricks. Don’t over think this part. Concentrate on dry wood and clean burns.
So hang on.. I'm talking about removing my grate, the ashpan sits directly underneath it. So I was going to remove the ashpan as well and just block up the ashpan opening (with firebricks for example).
 
So hang on.. I'm talking about removing my grate, the ashpan sits directly underneath it. So I was going to remove the ashpan as well and just block up the ashpan opening (with firebricks for example).
No just leave it all in place. That’s what I would do. Fill with sand or ash.
 
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