converting a ZC alcove over to wood stove , adequate output without electricity

[CMG]

Hello I have reading numerous threads to get some insight but we have no experience with a wood stove or the skills to do any of the labor involved in tear out or build.
After a few discussions with some stores that sell and install I still have questions. I will pay to have them come out to measure but I wanted that to be after hearing what they thought " looked like" it would work but needed confirmed by doing measurements .

Goal is to be able to heat WITHOUT electricity during a cold snap ( so no blowers I assume) in the event there was a disruption of natural gas or a furnace breakdown. This is in NE Ohio and although not routine, in 2015 we had minus - 17 F and we get these cold temps every so many years ( -11 to -20 F) actual temp not wind chill. The BTU calculator arrived at 120,000 BTU for the region, sq ft, good insulation, amt of double pane windows and a patio door in a colonial built in 1998. Looking at wood non cat due to reading ease of operation, no blowers and ability to hold over heat overnight if needed although this would not normally be the case. Read often after wood burning for comfort, many decide to use the wood burner more to offset heating the house for the winter. Like the look and type heat I have read on cast iron ( over steel ). I have seen the Pacific Energy Alderlea and very much like the idea of the ability to cook on the top if needed. I even like the idea of stoves that allow baking but have not found anything with the BTUs in that range or that would look appropriate in a not very rustic Family Room so far. Family room has a prefab firebox. Room is at the end of the house, exterior wall cantilevered alcove with a non masonry metal chimney pipe in a surround , clad in siding. I live in an association where all the chimneys are sided like this. My understanding is that the prefab unit and metal pipes going up the chimney would be taken out. If any of the alcove could be used partially to allow for more floor space that would be preferable but want to do what is safe and will work if we had a extended cold snap without a furnace or electricity. I saw in a thread on similar situation on wood stoves that say you can install in alcoves when the space was opened up further in height and perhaps the sides to meet manufacturers requirements for clearances. I have read steel could be used inside rather than wood studs to meet clearances. I am not concerned with having a TV above. I am more concerned with not having too large of a wood stove taking up floor space if looks too large for the room which is 15 wide x19 L. Regular height ceiling in this Family room but has two long double pane windows. It also has a large open entry to the adjoining kitchen which is only slightly narrower and that has a doorway entry to a Dining room. Dining room large open entry to Living room, open hallway to stairs no doors on either end. Wanting what would actually perform in event became sole heat in cold temps with no electricity. If we could keep the main floor somewhat comfortable at least, 9bedrooms are upstairs) and avoid bursting of water pipes in any part of the house, basement or upstairs . The family room with alcove prefab unit does not have any rooms above it, and the basement does not extend under it, except it probably just sits on the lip of the basement wall.
If taking out the alcove wall to the ceiling is necessary or preferable to do that is ok too. Want to know if doing any certain type of install with mentioned units would allow the stove to be placed closer to the exterior wall so as to not take up as much floor space. Currently there is a wood mantle and regular wall past that, but it does not have to stay that way, and could be re done in non combustibles. Does rear venting vs vertical venting or type install of either of these stoves make a difference as far as gaining floor space, either partially, if in or out of an opened/expanded alcove?

I have not seen the Jotul v 55 Carrabassett except in pics but read about it. It says it only requires ember protection. Says it rear vents . I think it is 88,000 BTU , hopefully has the air wash glass. Does the rear vent, only ember protection play into positioning it as to gain more floor space ? aside from its dimensions? or better fit ? We currently have floor tiles that extend 16 inch out from the front of the opening of the ZC FP and extend just as long as the FP mantle & side wood legs. The v 55 Jotul weighs less than the T6, and has slightly smaller width. Was wondering if size, rear vent, would fit better but still put out enough heat as wanted to prevent pipes bursting & heat the main floor in a particularly cold winter snap ? Can you use pots pans on top of it if needed to cook? Read somewhere about testing allowing for lower clearances done on this brand due to being used in Europe, and more commonly done there within existing fireplace space .

The PE Alderlea I have seen and like the ability to use the top for cooking. Obviously the swing arms would have to be able to be swung out and depending on the alcove and size unit you may or may not be able to do that. Even if setting in front of alcove does any of these stoves seem to be the better for the situation. Does the top vent ( PE stoves) or the rear vent ( Jotul v55 ) in this case give any better floor clearance ? but still give adequate heat needed?
The T6 is 99,000 BTU, the T5 is 72,000 , The FR is tacked on end of the house, does not have any of the second floor above it and the FP lip area may just sit over the basement wall but there is no basement below it. The FP alcove cantilevers out from the house as measured from the exterior siding 24 inches and the lower width before the chimney tapers & narrow is 59 inches wide outside. I need to measure how high before it tapers into the chimney stack.

There is also a weight difference with the Alderlea T 6 @ 585 lbs. being heaviest. T5-523 lbs. Jotul 55 Carrabassett 475 lbs. Mention because of the cantilevered alcove if used.

Want to know doing what type of install and stove would achieve what we are looking for. If it is redoing the size of the alcove, building out, whatever it is I would like to know . I have read of people not getting what they initially wanted and ending up tearing it out and redoing it later . If the heat output with our house (using the alcove) or opening it up or setting the stove in front of it. If none of these seem right option to not oversize the room but still avert pipes and people freezing, I would rather not spend the money if looking at the wrong option. But know it would be better than what I have now in prefab.

In my area there is not one dealer carrying both of these brands so I would have to get two estimates from two different stores who install them. And I was trying to narrow down which stove might look closer to working and go with that dealer. The dealer who carries the PE is cordial, has all good reviews but they are farther out about 100 miles and estimate to come out to measure is $160 and I could not get an answer on if I needed the higher120, 00 BTU or not as explained. They did not seem familiar as far as opening up an alcove and replacing with steel studs. It may of just been who I had spoke with that day and needed to speak to the installer , or I did not explain correctly. And maybe they would not do that type install. They did discuss the opening of the alcove to the ceiling but said it would not gain much floor space to be worth doing it , and to just set the stove in front of it. So if higher BTU s are needed, that would be a larger stove taking up more floor space and maybe that is the case, but I wanted to see if anything could be done on gaining floor space by using the alcove at all. Because seeing some doing on this site but do not know the output of their stoves. The other dealer that carries Jotul is much closer . I have been there in person three times and spoke to sales person, but missed the installers call twice ( babysitting ) but called back and did not get a return call back. I did not know about the v55 when we were out there, but have since read about it.
-Do I need 120,000 btu or will lower BTU still prevent pipes and people from freezing cold snap if no electricity....2076 sq ft colonial NE Ohio, unit in FR end of the house tacked on? The basement edge sits just where alcove opens to family room but does not extend under it but inches. The second story does not sit above it.
- rear vent vs top vent. Will this aid in getting better clearances especially depth? or make possible use of former ZC alcove to gain floor space?
- is it safe to use an alcove even partially if meet clearances but there is no blower, no electricity . I know there are very small non electric stove fans
- any suggestions on the stoves mentioned and if you think they would get us through an emergency without damage to the house pipes. and give us comfortable temp on the main floor , even if cooler upstairs
Thank you , sorry if did not provide useful info or posted incorrectly. First timer
CG

 

[EatenByLimestone]

How big is your house?

 

[CMG]

How big is your house?

2076 sq ft colonial. approximately 1314 main level, 762 second floor and only 4 BR up ( error on original post was supposed to be a parentheses and typed # . Center hall with half bath with open stairway not framed in top or bottom has high sloped ceiling. Open spindled stairway on one side for about 1/3 its length , 2/3 walled the rest. Largest room on the main floor is the FR 285 sq ft with the prefab( alcove) which is tacked on back , on the side of the house, side wall of FR North side has attached garage. other side two double paned long windows. Wide open entry to kitchen which is only slightly less width, then to open door frame to DR. That opens to the LR , the center hall and stairs. Winds generally travel strongest from the front of the house to the back . House face turned slightly NE, back is slightly turned SW. Chimney on the back & side* of the house facing more NE.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

3 cubic foot stove.

172k btu is way too much. Stoves are space heaters though. They won’t work like your furnace. Your stove room will be warmest, and rooms further away will be cooler.

Get your wood up now. It takes time to dry and firewood sellers, regardless of what they tell you, have less than ideal wood.

Check alcove requirements for stoves. Many don’t allow alcove installs. You may want to tear it out so you can get the stove you want.

 

[CMG]

BTU calculator said 120,00. The stoves mentioned are 99,00 Pacific Energy Alderlea T6, 88,000 Jotul v55 Carrabassett, 72,000 T5 They all have alcove installation listed . The Jotul clearances broken down as alcove double wall pipe to non combustible and then also alcove double wall pipe with wall protection*. The PE Alderlea gives clearances to alcove double wall pipe to combustibles only, but says nothing about with wall protection. Attached i a photo from the manufacturer of Alderlea in what I picture a former ZC space if taken out may look like. I am inquiring about if is possible to do with any of these models . If right off the bat someone can see they are too big to fit with clearances to present space ( T6 ? ) or would not work well ( too low of BTU) . Or if installed like this would be unsafe without electricity so no blower. I was trying to get the most BTU because of what the BTU calculator said and if possible not take up as much floor space by using some of the former alcove.
Also this picture seems to have closer side clearances than what stated for the T6 alcove double wall pipe to combustibles sides is 16inches is why asking if there is a clearance to " wall protection" like the V55 Jotul lists theirs on the sides as being 6 inches alcove double wall pipe with wall protection. The Alderlea T6 would be preferred because of the BTU and ability to cook on. I did not want to have them come out to measure if right off the bat someone can see they would not give heat needed or unsafe without blower in the alcove just by the size and clearances. T 5 is 72,000 BTU. vs Carrabassett 88,000 lists alcove double wall pipe with wall protection* . The Alderleas do not say with wall protection, but that picture looks like closer side clearances than 16 inches with wall protection
Exterior size of our alcove 24 inches deep by 59 inches wide.
Thanks for former and and other replies
PS. firebox is 3 on the T6. I thinks 2.9 on the Jotul Carrabassett. Read slight protrusion in inside of the back inside firebox where need to angle the wood a bit.

 

[stoveliker]

The pic above may simply be a proper brick wall without combustibles (studs) in there. Clearances are always to the nearest combustible and do not pertain to empty space. So in the case of the pic one can't judge whether the clearances are met.

I have a 1700 sq ft home plus an additional 825 sq ft basement.
I use a stove that does 36000 BTU per hr per the mfg and I can keep my home at 70 at 5 F gale wind Northeaster.

I don't think you need 100,000+ BTU.
And if you go that high your stove room will be a miserably hot place. My basement where my stove is will be nearing 90 at the above conditions.

 

[CMG]

Thank you for the replies Eaten by Limestone & Stoveliker info on your stove output, sq ft. & weather conditions, which seems to be working for you. The stove room would be on the floor level desired to be the warmest ( main ) rather than the basement. I understand if running in the basement to run it hotter so as to get your upper main level warm. I was thinking ( and maybe this is incorrect) we would not have to run it that hot, if that is possible? But still would have the capacity to do so on occasion if temps were really low, with having a larger firebox. From what I have read, people have stated they were able to do smaller fires with the PE models without a problem, I'd have to check on the Jotul about that. So if that is incorrect and in fact the stove room would be too hot most of the time and be uncomfortable to sit in , even with a somewhat smaller- medium fire with these models that have bigger firebox 3 c. or close, I would like to know that. I was thinking a medium size fire most of the time for comfort but having the capacity to go larger if needed . Also read people suggested larger fireboxes for ease of not having to get smaller pieces of wood cut, ability to do North South loading and capacity for bigger load of wood if temps got really cold. Also saw a video where a man although not in a cold a region as we are, had the experience of unusual low winter temps and was without electricity. His wood stove got him through the emergency but he was having to reload it every two hours overnight, and found it exhausting with all the other extra things he had to do in that situation. So even though a rare event, and a warm region he replaced that stove with another with much larger firebox.
If you think the T6 or Jotul v55 still way too hot to use comfortably most of the time in stove room, my type floor plan with a medium fire let me know, anyone. Stove room would be in an open area 15 x19 with wide open entry into adjoining room almost as large both 8 ft ceilings leading to reg. framed doorway to DR, but large open entry from DR to LR , large open entry LR to center hall to mostly open stairway whose ceiling is the same one as the second floor. Considered T5 but question smaller firebox 72,00 BTU and did not know if in emergency would do the job in below zero temps without electricity no blowers. Not just to keep us warm but prevent water pipes from freezing. We have a basement and was told that if we could keep the main floor fairly warm the basement would be warm enough the pipes would not freeze. No mention of the upstairs ones but thought the basement was the ones of concern because they enter there. Maybe someone else experiences below freezing temps without electricity* to move the stove air with similar size home with basement. I am appreciative of the past replies and considering what all has been said.


Are there any clearances with either brand to non* combustibles?

ex. Walls using steel studs durock cement board construction, or solid brick.....No need to go into proper construction method with air spaces but wondered if there is required clearances of the stoves from those type of total noncombustible walls?

Is either one of these brands with REGULAR constructed walls with some type of covering or" wall protection" as Jotul lists ) allowing for closer clearances than the OTHER ?

It may be semantics or misunderstanding of the word on my part? I pictured wall protection ( listed under Jotul clearances not PE) as some type of non combustible covering over a combustible wall . I thought ex. maybe that was tile or piece of metal , not replacing the parts- studs of the wall. Is that incorrect to think of it that way ? Looked like Jotul allowed closer clearances with "wall protection" than the PE. without replacing, rebuilding a wall.

Or do they come out to similar clearances because PE only lists clearance to combustibles? And anything closer that is noncombustible does not matter, no required clearance to non combustible? This may be incorrect, and I may not be understanding, I am asking. Confusing myself !

And for those who can figure or have seen
Viewing window T6 says 185 sq in T5 163 sq in ( cannot find dimensions) saw awhile ago.
Window view says on Jotul 15 1/2 by 10 1/2 ( cannot find sq in )

Haven't seen in person, the Jotul Carrabassett and wondered how its window viewing compared to the T6 or T5

Thank you !

PS. I know want it all. Really hot when need it, not too hot when don't but want it to not take up too much space. Like wanting a really big vehicle to hold a lot of passengers that fits in a teeny tiny garage : ) Just trying to find out what the options are before close the door on one idea or the other.

 

[stoveliker]

One can burn a smaller fire in a bigger stove. But too small and there won't be secondary combustion and it'll burn dirtier (or with less control as you have to burn all out to keep it reasonably clean).

I would not get a stove for the <5% of the time you need something more than what it can provide 95% of the time with good user satisfaction.
Best to not burn the stove at its (low) extreme all the time when you could instead burn at its comfortable midrange and only occasionally burn at its (high) extreme.

Clearance is always to combustibles. Tile on top of drywall won't make a difference to the distance to that drywall and that.is the only thing that matters.
If a manual doesn't note it's allowed to decrease clearance with shielding, then that's not allowed. Shielding has to comply with specific requirements, e g. a non-combustible sheet offset by an inch in front of a wall,.with gaps at the bottom and top for convective cooling.

 

[CMG]

One can burn a smaller fire in a bigger stove. But too small and there won't be secondary combustion and it'll burn dirtier (or with less control as you have to burn all out to keep it reasonably clean).

I would not get a stove for the <5% of the time you need something more than what it can provide 95% of the time with good user satisfaction.
Best to not burn the stove at its (low) extreme all the time when you could instead burn at its comfortable midrange and only occasionally burn at its (high) extreme.

Clearance is always to combustibles. Tile on top of drywall won't make a difference to the distance to that drywall and that.is the only thing that matters.
If a manual doesn't note it's allowed to decrease clearance with shielding, then that's not allowed. Shielding has to comply with specific requirements, e g. a non-combustible sheet offset by an inch in front of a wall,.with gaps at the bottom and top for convective cooling.

Ok thanks for your reply. I thought the suggested firebox was the larger 3 cf. and they have BTU in the range of 99, 000 , 88,000 for those two mentioned models. I thought that measurement was when they were running at their maximum* with a loaded full up* with wood. I had thought with a medium amt of wood, medium size fire they would have lower BTU ( less heat? ) but still do that secondary burn and be comfortable in the stove room most of the time. I might be misunderstanding the values. I understand the part about your saying less than 5 % of the time if needed more heat. So is that not at their maximum then, that is their average?
Attaching photo of house layout. We have extra long windows double hung windows almost to the floor, two XL in the stove room and 3 XL in the LR. There are two other windows on the main floor for a total of 7 windows with patio door on main level and 6 reg, double hung upstairs.
I also looked up the coldest recorded temps for this area , below zero not highly unusual but usually does not last long maybe a few days to a week. Trying to recollect that part. Minus teens less so but not unheard of and rarer minus twenty. Lowest was minus 27 that I saw. Thank you

 

[CMG]

Ok thanks for your reply. I thought the suggested firebox was the larger 3 cf. and they have BTU in the range of 99, 000 , 88,000 for those two mentioned models. I thought that measurement was when they were running at their maximum* with a loaded full up* with wood. I had thought with a medium amt of wood, medium size fire they would have lower BTU ( less heat? ) but still do that secondary burn and be comfortable in the stove room most of the time. I might be misunderstanding the values. I understand the part about your saying less than 5 % of the time if needed more heat. So is that not at their maximum then, that is their average?
Attaching photo of house layout. We have extra long windows double hung windows almost to the floor, two XL in the stove room and 3 XL in the LR. There are two other windows on the main floor for a total of 7 windows with patio door on main level and 6 reg, double hung upstairs.
I also looked up the coldest recorded temps for this area , below zero not highly unusual but usually does not last long maybe a few days to a week. Trying to recollect that part. Minus teens less so but not unheard of and rarer minus twenty. Lowest was minus 27 that I saw. Thank you

Ok thanks for your reply. I thought the suggested firebox was the larger 3 cf. and they have BTU in the range of 99, 000 , 88,000 for those two mentioned models. I thought that measurement was when they were running at their maximum* with a loaded full up* with wood. I had thought with a medium amt of wood, medium size fire they would have lower BTU ( less heat? ) but still do that secondary burn and be comfortable in the stove room most of the time. I might be misunderstanding the values. I understand the part about your saying less than 5 % of the time if needed more heat. So is that not at their maximum then, that is their average?
Attaching photo of house layout. We have extra long windows double hung windows almost to the floor, two XL in the stove room and 3 XL in the LR. There are two other windows on the main floor for a total of 7 windows with patio door on main level and 6 reg, double hung upstairs.
I also looked up the coldest recorded temps for this area , below zero not highly unusual but usually does not last long maybe a few days to a week. Trying to recollect that part. Minus teens less so but not unheard of and rarer minus twenty. Lowest was minus 27 that I saw. Thank you

House is flipped from the layout I sent. so every thing on opposite side. and two windows in LR XL and one XL in hall.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Looking at your floor plan, assuming your stove will be in your family room, your living room and master bathroom will be hard to heat. The master bedroom will most likely be cooler also.

The T5 (2cu ft) or T6 (3cu ft) will work, but the T6 will not be run as hard in really cold weather.

Don’t get hung up on btu numbers. You can only fit so much wood in a firebox. You can dump that load in an hour and get great btu numbers, or divide that load up by 8 hours and get smaller numbers. Look at the firebox size to compare stoves. Small fires only work good to a point. Small loads work better in smaller fireboxes than in big ones.

The stove on the first floor will not heat the basement. Without electricity, it’ll be really hard to heat rooms far from the stove, stoves are big space heaters.

Get your wood up and drying last week. Burning wet wood is a very frustrating experience. This is more important than which stove you pick.

 

[CMG]

Thanks for your reply . The basement is not a living space or walk out. One dealer said if the first/main floor was heated ( we are talking in below freezing weather in the event of no electricity ( gas furnace would not work without it or if furnace broke- emergency ) he said the basement pipes would not freeze below ground basement, if the floor above the basement was heated. So I was going on what he said. Normally we should have electricity with back up generator and a working gas furnace but talking about if had neither. So thought of wood stove as back up but thought we could get use of stove also for comfort and ambience in the Family Room even when we had furnace and electricity. Keeping in mind many have said they liked the type heat and started using it more to heat with. As far as comfortable temps the main floor was one most looking for it, in a emergency. Upstairs and basement could be cooler/colder although would be trying avoid damage to pipes.

-Given you could see the layout of the Family Room and larger open area to kitchen and openings to other rooms would a 3 cf wood stove with a MEDIUM size fire, look to be too hot /uncomfortable to sit in the Family room where stove is ?

-Would a Medium size fire whatever that is - not packed to the top like people are showing preparing for overnight burns Cat stove) be enough to run the stove correctly, not cause build up, get secondary burn?

-Or are you saying the fire must be LARGE( filled up with wood) to run a 3cf stove right and with that type of large fire it would be too hot in that room to sit in?

I was looking to accomplish BOTH- #1 good emergency back up in below freezing weather with no electricity , but still be able to use enjoy other times.
Thanks

 

[stoveliker]

Doesn't need.to be large but two splits is not enough to get secondaries going inna 3 cu ft box.
Medium is perfectly fine and possible.

 

[begreen]

One dealer said if the first/main floor was heated ( we are talking in below freezing weather in the event of no electricity ( gas furnace would not work without it or if furnace broke- emergency ) he said the basement pipes would not freeze below ground basement, if the floor above the basement was heated.

I call BS on that one. There are too many variables involved to make a statement like that. Whether the pipes might freeze or not will have more to do with how cold it gets, pipe exposure, tightness of the basement, above ground exposure, and where the pipes are located. A pipe in an exterior wall or near a leaky sill plate will be the most vulnerable.

Post a sketch of the floorplan and note how tall are the ceilings in these areas if there are high ceilings. Colonials can be tricky to evenly heat without some convective (fan) assistance.

3 dry, medium-sized splits in a T6 will get secondaries going. We burn 4-5 splits regularly in milder weather without issue.

 

[begreen]

The pic above may simply be a proper brick wall without combustibles (studs) in there. Clearances are always to the nearest combustible and do not pertain to empty space. So in the case of the pic one can't judge whether the clearances are met.

Exactly right. I hate when manufactures put images like this in brochures. It looks like a studio shot with the flames photoshopped in.

 

[CMG]

LOL now your making me chuckle, yeah I just ask, who knows if I am getting the right info out there or not ! Floorplan is up there somewhere, scroll back under a download it is attached. Standard ceiling ht. 8 ft main level. I am probably messing your whole site up with my lack of computer skills sorry if did anything wrong or asking repeated dumb as a knot type questions. I was trying to balance in an emergency situation- no furnace working in subzero weather and no electricity thinking I would need* the 3 c f firebox and in non emergency times being able to still enjoy sitting in there & still use it. We have a gas furnace & electricity. There are two X Long windows double pane in the Family Room- stove room and large open entry to adjoining room with glass patio door and another window. House has X Long windows in front also.

So that is why asking if a medium* size fire in 3 c f firebox in that stove room- Family room when non emergency (furnace works) would still be too hot to be comfortable to sit in there?

Concerned in an emergency as sole heat 2 c f firebox might be not enough to prevent damage to pipes/people in subzero temps.

Glad to hear the stove would run correctly with what I am calling a medium size fire and your giving the wood amts/description.

Appreciate being able to read all your info on how to do things( even though I can't do them ) learn a little woodburning lingo, but especially like how the place lights up when you start talking about food cooking ha ha.
Thank you all

 

[stoveliker]

No such thing as dumb questions; education starts with answers to elementary questions.
Many of the answers are not black and white ("will it work" - well, that depends, 2 splits, 4 splits, etc.)

My point is that aiming to be as comfortable in emergencies as one normally is, is a futile approach. Any decent 2.5 cu ft stove will keep you from freezing to death, and keep the pipes (on the main floor and possibly upstairs; heat goes up) from freezing. You might not have your 68 F target temp outside the stove room if it's 0 F, but it's an emergency... You may have to take off garments in the stove room and add them upstairs. It's temporary.

My remark about my basement stove was to show that keeping the rest of the (higher parts of the) home comfortable (stove is used as sole heat in my home when it's below heat pump temps) means the stove room is less comfortable. At least 90 F is not very comfortable to me. (Inside; I lived in TN and liked 90 F outside perfectly fine; much better than 100 F )

I would not sweat - pun intended - ticking all the boxes (being comfortable at all times); an emergency means the family will have to adapt.

It appears to me the cooking thing is important to you. It is my understanding (not personal experience) that the PE stove with the swing out trivets has the best functionality there, because it allows to control the cooking temp. Other stoves would have to do that by adding rings between pot and stove etc.

Finally, I have a small generator (called portable, but a bit heavy to carry...). If the power is out for 8 hrs or more, I run that thing with a cord to my fridge (most important!), a cord to a fan (moving cold air from the living room floor through a duct with fire damper to the basement floor so the warmer air near the basement ceiling gets pushed up the stairs to the living floor - if it's really cold I need this fan to keep the living quarters comfortable), and have some power for the microwave and lights left.
To me that temporary hassle (moving genny out of the garage, cords, noise) is the price I pay to increase comfort during an emergency.
Once you have a stove, you can figure out what would help you in moving warm air to the places that need it most, and have a genny and fan ready for when the power goes out (with the bonus that your food doesn't go bad too). Generally this is done best by a fan that runs slowly (no turbulence) pushing cold air towards the stove room. It'll be replaced by warm air, creating a (forced) convection loop of stratified (hence no turbulence/mixing wanted) cold and warm air.

 

[begreen]

So that is why asking if a medium* size fire in 3 c f firebox in that stove room- Family room when non emergency (furnace works) would still be too hot to be comfortable to sit in there?

Sorry, I've been out camping and the posting has been a bit verbose to read when catching up. I found the pdf that had the floor plan. A stove in the family room will not be heating the whole house due to the closed off areas on the opposite side of the house unless there is forced convection. A 2 cu ft stove would work ok if the primary goal is to warm the family room and kitchen with some heat rising up the stairwell. Again, a smaller load of wood can be burned in a 3 cu ft firebox but if this is the way the stove has to be run 80% of the time then the value of the larger firebox will be more limited.

The rest of the points have been well covered. Stoveliker is right, one can overthink emergency situations. I concur with the suggestion of having a small generator if power outages are likely to be longer than 12 hrs and/or more than once in the winter. The size of the generator will depend on what is essential to power. In our house, it's mainly for refrigeration, but in others there may be a well or septic pump-up that needs powering. Or maybe consider owning an EV with a V2L feature.

 

[stoveliker]

Off-topic: lol, one person's emergency (no power, cooking over a fire) is another person's free time enjoyment (camping) :-D
I love camping!

On topic: that (80% of the time remark and significantly higher stove room temp) was my main point farther above. Get the stove that runs great the far majority of the time, and that one has to push (up or down) the minority of the time. Most folks do the same with their water heater and supplying multiple bathrooms and a kitchen (except for ashful ;-p ).

 

[CMG]

Thank you and sorry for the wordiness, but was trying to give all the info upfront you might inquire on. Stated earlier we have a generator whole house, easy to miss in all the info. Relative had electricity but furnace broke, unsafe. Had to be ordered, so a wait, couple weeks. Used electric space heaters had pipes burst in subzero temps and ended up living in a hotel for a year. So why inquired about if sole heat situation- no furnace capability situation even though had electricity. You already addressed, and thank you.
Saw one ex. on here in WV( slightly milder winters than here) T6 installed in 14x19 area( but I do not know ceiling ht or layout) and said wanted as backup if furnace went out and went with larger unit. We spend most of our time in FR 15x19 open to 13 x19 Kitchen.
Will let others have their turn asking. Just this last one again, if you allow me please
In the stove room,- 3 cf cast over steel stove. Whatever you consider as REGULAR */ I call Medium fire ( 3-4 splits? ) NOT small fire. Assuming dry wood, in non emergency ( we would be using our nat. gas furnace and can adjust T but if wanted more warmth in that area *, Would it likely it would be too hot in that FR ? / Ex 85 -90 degrees room temp in FR/ uncomfortable to sit in given our layout ?

Thank you, appreciate your time and info

Will go back to dipping in and out to read : ) promise

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the summary.

One burns according to one's needs. A 'regular' fire for us is a fully loaded firebox. We only burn partial loads in milder weather. The main reason is that a full load means 10-12 hrs between reloads for us. Smaller shoulder season fires can mean reloading every 3-5 hrs. That gets old on a daily basis. More and more we are using the heat pump instead in that circumstance. Milder weather for us is above 40º.

One difference is that we burn doug fir. In Ohio most likely you'll be burning a good hardwood. That can help extend burn times a bit but the wood may put out more heat. However, I'm sure that there is pine and other lower btu wood around in Ohio so keeping a stash of that for milder weather burning is a possible strategy

The stove will work fine with an initial 4-5 splits fire to build the coal bed and then the reloads can be just 2-3 splits on a hot coal bed. That will produce less heat with more frequent reloads. FWIW, that's the way my wife prefers to run the stove.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Every stove behaves a little differently at every house. Wind, chimney height, inside and outside temperatures, wood burnt, experience, etc all play a part in how a stove reacts. BG’s T6 will behave different from one that you install in your house. Once a stove is installed, it can take a season of burning to get the most out of it. Every variable changes with each load of wood. In my opinion, burning wood is an art based off science.