Cool old Brick Oven - get it working again

[ctyankee]

And yes... the "warmers" on the pipe.... what are they used for? Plates??

Yes I think they are just platforms for plates, bowls, etc, warmers right up against the hot pipe. Folding gets them out of the way when not in use. Some other devices were made that actually tapped into the flue gasses --- which enables more creosote farther up the pipe.

 

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

There may (maybe it's still there but likely it was filled in at some point) have been a smallish opening in the main firebox/hearth floor. Excess ash would be swept down it. Falling down to the arched base. The ash would be used to make lye (for soap making). A cauldron would have been used to make the lye. In front of that trash can, is that recess open enough to build a small fire in. If so, I'd guess this allowed for heating the cauldron above. Or maybe there was just a fire made on the platform. Another rabbit hole! Thanks for the info and updates.

Ha. Yesssss. There is an opening to the basement which was probably originally just masonry and eventually ended up with a metal grate over it. It is sealed up. I was tempted to open it up... but it would also involve making a hole or grate from the brick oven into the storage chamber below in order for it to be useful. I don't know if it is so important to do that... considering that I am discarding the ashes, and not using them in the basement as they would have nearly 200 years ago. I am attaching a photo.

There is a brick arch design that holds up the hearth. it is really smart. These designs involve a lot more than sticking a metal pipe up a chimney. I've done a bunch of engineering calculations and I am surprised just how accurate and functional these fireplace and chimney designs are. Of course there are a ton of advantages to steel liners that obviously make them absolutely ideal for wood stoves. But... there are very few people around that still know and/or care about the old masonry techniques used on these fireplaces and brick ovens. I am really torn between finding someone to line original chimney with cement vs. just putting a steel liner and a stove (and brick oven). It is really going to depend on which one will make the brick oven function best. I can't figure out if it needs a small flue like a wood stove, or huge flue like a fireplace. Anybody know?

And yes, one would have made a fire in the space below the cauldron, as you noted. There is the square flue in the corner. But they ruined that flue when they installed a liner for the furnace.

An exterior photo or 2 may help. Also, windows are usually changed throughout the years, but not always. So it's worth knowing what style windows are in this part of house. Maybe they were changed 10 years ago, or are original. I'd be curious what's there now.

It has old 12 over 12 windows with putty... that I have gradually been reglazing. And yes it is old plaster in this house... with horse hair! (or some animal hair) to hold it together. It is so annoying that they stuck drywall over some of it in some places, which messes up the profile of the wood trim. I mean, drywall is fine for doing things cheap with new construction. But it kills me to see contractors smashing out old plaster and lathe on some of these old houses and proudly putting up DRYWALL, citing how smooth it is. Uggggg.

Don't even get me started on people throwing out awesome wood windows (divided light windows... especially those with wavy glass) because they have been sold on the idea that vinyl is somehow better. All they really need are storm windows for winter. Again, fine for cheap new construction, but an absolute abomination to do on a historic property. They all have mismatched fake bright white vinyl window trim, which does not coordinate with any other paint on their house.

Yes I think they are just platforms for plates, bowls, etc, warmers right up against the hot pipe. Folding gets them out of the way when not in use. Some other devices were made that actually tapped into the flue gasses --- which enables more creosote farther up the pipe.

Amazing how long the old stovepipe has held up on this one and my other antique stoves.

I'll see if I can round up some photos.

 

[bholler]

Ha. Yesssss. There is an opening to the basement which was probably originally just masonry and eventually ended up with a metal grate over it. It is sealed up. I was tempted to open it up... but it would also involve making a hole or grate from the brick oven into the storage chamber below in order for it to be useful. I don't know if it is so important to do that... considering that I am discarding the ashes, and not using them in the basement as they would have nearly 200 years ago. I am attaching a photo.

There is a brick arch design that holds up the hearth. it is really smart. These designs involve a lot more than sticking a metal pipe up a chimney. I've done a bunch of engineering calculations and I am surprised just how accurate and functional these fireplace and chimney designs are. Of course there are a ton of advantages to steel liners that obviously make them absolutely ideal for wood stoves. But... there are very few people around that still know and/or care about the old masonry techniques used on these fireplaces and brick ovens. I am really torn between finding someone to line original chimney with cement vs. just putting a steel liner and a stove (and brick oven). It is really going to depend on which one will make the brick oven function best. I can't figure out if it needs a small flue like a wood stove, or huge flue like a fireplace. Anybody know?

And yes, one would have made a fire in the space below the cauldron, as you noted. There is the square flue in the corner. But they ruined that flue when they installed a liner for the furnace.

It has old 12 over 12 windows with putty... that I have gradually been reglazing. And yes it is old plaster in this house... with horse hair! (or some animal hair) to hold it together. It is so annoying that they stuck drywall over some of it in some places, which messes up the profile of the wood trim. I mean, drywall is fine for doing things cheap with new construction. But it kills me to see contractors smashing out old plaster and lathe on some of these old houses and proudly putting up DRYWALL, citing how smooth it is. Uggggg.

Don't even get me started on people throwing out awesome wood windows (divided light windows... especially those with wavy glass) because they have been sold on the idea that vinyl is somehow better. All they really need are storm windows for winter. Again, fine for cheap new construction, but an absolute abomination to do on a historic property. They all have mismatched fake bright white vinyl window trim, which does not coordinate with any other paint on their house.


Amazing how long the old stovepipe has held up on this one and my other antique stoves.

I'll see if I can round up some photos.

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Look at all of the modern ovens built with a very similar form. They all use smaller liners mostly 6"or 7" the liner should be sized according to the firebox opening. By properly sizing the liner you can actually make it work much better than it did originally.

 

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

Look at all of the modern ovens built with a very similar form. They all use smaller liners mostly 6"or 7" the liner should be sized according to the firebox opening. By properly sizing the liner you can actually make it work much better than it did originally.

Okay cool.
Based on a 11 x 15 inch opening, it seems a very small exhaust would work, and a 6 inch liner would be entirely sufficient. Although I may be able to use an old 7" liner that is currently in the chimney once I change some things around. I am thinking bigger is better... because there is a sliding metal damper, which I can close down partially to get the right amount of draft, if I have too much. Is this correct thinking?

With that damper, it should be able to close the flue completely, right? As it is now the damper slides in and out to close the flue from the bottom. However, the area behind the damper is completely open, essentially allowing smoke to escape that way. I THINK that area was filled in with bricks and mortar.... and I can repair it. It would not make sense for the damper to shut off only HALF of the outgoing air in its fully closed position, would it?

 

[N.E.K. - D.D.S.]

It works so well.
I am worried about messing with it.