Country Canyon ST310 - should we replace it?

[hailingsummer]

Hello,

We purchased a home earlier this year. It had a rough-looking Country Canyon ST310, probably installed in early to mid 2000’s. It’s our first time owning a wood stove. We had it inspected and the chimney swept, and then re-painted. We got some firewood and I have built a number of fires, learning along the way. We enjoy the ambiance, but…there are a few things either missing or (maybe) need replacing, and with the cost of parts, I’m wondering if replacing the stove would be a reasonable consideration.

Issues with existing stove:
1. The fan’s controller/thermostat system is absent. A power cord that leads directly to the fan is plugged in or unplugged to turn the fan on or off, and it is loud and has no adjustable speed that I can see. Replacement fan kit $700-900
2. Baffle blankets need replacing; it looks like half is missing. Falls apart easily and not laying flat. Cost confusing based on oem or aftermarket
3. Baffle bricks may need replacing - some cracked/broken/missing. Looks like now they use 4 baffle boards instead? Cost $100-250 based on bricks or baffle board/blanket set.
4. Secondary burn tubes do not look original (no center support bar, also in rectangular housing?? There are 4 tubes, but holes aren’t all facing forward as install instructions I found indicate, plus a couple look badly rusted or damaged). Replacement set with 4 included cut firebricks, $500
5. It appears aftermarket firebricks have been put in (some of which have chipped or cracked - I can see the back of the firebox due to one of the chunks missing); several are different than the diagram, and it seems to be missing some of the specially cut bricks, and the angled ones in the front under the air hole; there’s an inch or so gap. New pre-cut OEM firebrick set: $400+
6. We had our favorite painter prep and repaint it with stove bright hi temp paint, and I followed the curing process to the best of my ability, but it’s already flaking in a few places. So might have to have them do that whole process again eventually… $300-500 ish.

So with looking at around $2000 in replacement parts to get it in tip top shape, I’m wondering if maybe that $2k would be better used for a newer stove? I have not been able to find many prices listed online for newer models.

Here’s our usage environment:
1. We have a brand new heat pump so we don’t need it to heat the house unless there’s a power outage, but we like the ambiance when we’re hanging out in our living room.
2. It puts out more heat than we typically need. To get it quickly burning in the “ideal” temperature range according to stovetop thermometer, I have to load it pretty full, and it can get uncomfortably warm in the area, needing to keep a window open. We keep the house a cooler 65-67 degrees; this can bump the thermostat reading about 40 feet away to 75 which is too warm for me personally!
3. We have a grand piano across the room about 20’ away and it’s better to keep humidity and temperature somewhat controlled.

I’ve been loading N-S, top down, usually fitting 3 bigger logs or splits on the bottom, with 3 smaller logs or medium splits next, and kindling etc on top of that, and usually that lasts a whole evening. If I start it earlier in the day (like on Thanksgiving), I’ll add one or two more. We don’t have wood put up so it’s about $8-10 for a fully loaded firebox for an evening fire. I try and keep the stovetop temp around 400-450, and that’s with the air mostly closed. When the air is open it can get up to 550-600, sometimes higher if I’m not careful, which is when I start adjusting down the air and/or running the blower.

The bottom line is, if I could get it to burn efficiently but more slowly and less hot with a smaller load of wood, I’d be happy with that. If that’s unlikely for this stove, then I’m not sure I want to put in all the money for new parts etc., however I wouldn’t want to replace it with a too-dinky stove that would look like it’s being swallowed up in the brick surround (see pic).

If you’ve read this far thank you. Here’s a pic of this beast. Sorry it’s a bit dark; I want to add some down lights above the stove to help with that soon.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Amazon product ASIN B01E4RZPOA
Add this instead of a new fan kit. If you really want to get fancy, see the thermal switch in the wiring diagram.

Do you have any pics of the inside, I bet we can whittle those costs down a bit more.

 

[hailingsummer]

I have a few stills of the inside from when I took a video, and could take more later.

 

[hailingsummer]

Here’s a few additional screenshots from the video I took earlier

 

[Caw]

Given your description of liking a cooler house and humidity/temp controls for your piano I think you're going to struggle with a wood stove unless you get something very small. It's just the nature of wood heat. Whatever room the stove is in will be significantly warmer than the rest of the house. We like to keep the house around 70-72 on average which means the stove room is 78 and the far rooms are 65-68. It gets warm in the stove room for sure. Id certainly just purchase a new stove before spending $2k to fix an old one myself though. Just in general. You can get something nice for only a little extra $.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

It looks like your tubes are fine. I wonder if the blanket wasn’t added by a previous home owner. It’s interesting that the brick goes all the way up to the baffle. That’s unusual.

Do you happen to have a manual?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Ok, bricks and blanket are stock.

You can often get blanket material from any stove shop.

 

[hailingsummer]

Given your description of liking a cooler house and humidity/temp controls for your piano I think you're going to struggle with a wood stove unless you get something very small. It's just the nature of wood heat. Whatever room the stove is in will be significantly warmer than the rest of the house. We like to keep the house around 70-72 on average which means the stove room is 78 and the far rooms are 65-68. It gets warm in the stove room for sure. Id certainly just purchase a new stove before spending $2k to fix an old one myself though. Just in general. You can get something nice for only a little extra $.

That’s what I was wondering. I’ll keep it in mind.
It does sound like some of the things I thought might be issues might either be fine or could be replaced with cheaper alternatives. If I can’t get a slower/cooler-but-still-efficient burn figured out, i can modulate it with an open window.

 

[hailingsummer]

Ok, bricks and blanket are stock.

You can often get blanket material from any stove shop.

View attachment 319592

You mean they’re a standard size, right? There are several odd size cut bricks. I’m not sure I have the tools to cut firebrick. The oem part number bricks I’ve found are $24 per each individual brick 😳 or $400 for a set. There is a “cut pieces only” part number but I didn’t have any luck finding it anywhere.

Link to parts list/diagram:

Ironstrike Country Series Canyon Free Standing Wood Burning Stove (ST310)

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I bet those are standard firebricks. They can be found at concrete brickyards cheap. A quick search shows them at Home Depot and tractor Supply too.

I’ve used tile saws to cut them and angle grinders. I bet you can pick up an angle grinder cheap at Harbor Freight.

5 Amp, 4-1/2 in. Slide Switch Angle Grinder

Amazing deals on this 4-1/2In 5Amp Angle Grinder at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[EbS-P]

I say it’s not worth the money to fix up. Did you have the flue cleaned and I inspected by a chimney professional?

Honestly take your pick wood stove or a really well treated piano. My parents will be getting their turn of the century upright back after a compete restoration. I wouldn’t want it in the room with a wood burner.

If I really cared about it I’d have a good dehumidifier and humidifier.

 

[begreen]

The Canyon is a very good heater. The stove looks to be in much better condition than indicated. If the paint is flaking I suspect the painter messed up at some point in the preparation and left a spot that didn't bond well. Just that area needs to be redone.
Stock firebricks are fine for replacement. They are only about $3 each at a good lumber and masonry supply store. Most of the bricks still look ok. I would fill the bottom layer gaps with ash. The broken baffle bricks should be replaced along with the baffle blanket. That's the most serious issue and easily fixed. Kaowool (ceramic wood) 1/2" blanket is sold online via Amazon. It can be cut to size if necessary. The total cost for a few bricks and the ceramic blanket will be well under $100.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

And the rheostat is $20. I think your stove is good for just maintenance at this time!

 

[begreen]

Yes. They make plugin speed controllers too.
Amazon product ASIN B07T9BLJ7L

 

[hailingsummer]

Thanks so much everyone! I’ll get the cheaper fan part alternatives, and kaowool ceramic blanket material to start, rearrange the baffle bricks properly and check the secondary tube setup, and reduce my initial load and see if that lowers the heat and extends my burns, and eventually look for some firebricks and try my hand at cutting replacements at some point. I’m so relieved to have an option to spend a much lower amount at this point to make meaningful improvements on it!

As an aside, I’m burning seasoned/dry cherry wood, alder, and some oak. (But fir is more common/cheaper here and I have some (free) rounds at my folks place that was cut down recently that will need to season but it burns faster as a softwood). Using cedar for kindling, and I have some unfinished hickory and a tiny bit of walnut hardwood flooring scraps from our flooring install for an initial boost (until I run out).

Any other tips or recommendations? Thank you everyone again for your input and advice!

 

[hailingsummer]

I took out the baffle bricks and old blanket, which had so much ash on it (and ash on the bricks where there was no blanket). Is this normal for the top/sides of the firebox? Should I clean it off? I got the front 3 air tubes rotated properly, but the back one won’t budge yet. I think because the back wall firebricks aren’t the right size. (Too tall in the back)

 

[begreen]

The stove has not been burning properly due to the baffle gaps and shot blanket. It should burn hotter and cleaner once these issues are taken care of.

Doug Fir is a fine firewood. We have been burning it exclusively. The Canyon stove was made in Auburn, it will burn fir fine.

 

[hailingsummer]

i discovered the secondary tubes were not put in in the right order so I took the front 3 out, and still trying to get the back one loose. I took out the upper side bricks as well. There is some pretty bad rust behind, with chunks flaking off… do I need to do something about that?

 

[cahaak]

Interior rust is really not an issue. Anyone with even a cheap tile saw can cut firebrick to size. I would R andR on the cheap per the suggestions you have. Our piano is in the same room as our wood stove, on the opposite side about 20' away. There are really no issues as the piano sits on the floor and the hotter temps are up higher and it's located too far away for direct radiative heat. So, depending upon room size, a piano can be located in the same room without issues.

 

[hailingsummer]

Interior rust is really not an issue. Anyone with even a cheap tile saw can cut firebrick to size. I would R andR on the cheap per the suggestions you have. Our piano is in the same room as our wood stove, on the opposite side about 20' away. There are really no issues as the piano sits on the floor and the hotter temps are up higher and it's located too far away for direct radiative heat. So, depending upon room size, a piano can be located in the same room without issues.

Appreciate your response! Onward I go…