We bought a country hearth 2000 from tractor supply 2 weeks ago. From the get go we have had nothing but problems trying to get it to burn. We even have a temporary outside air intake in place. This hasn't helped at all. Any suggestions on how to correct this problem? Any help would be much appreciated. I have 3 videos but I'm not sure how to post them. Thanks in advance for any help.
country hearth 2000 wood stove problems
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embers aplenty
Burning Hunk
Sorry to hear that. I had one of those stoves in my garage for a while. Other then it being a bit small for my drafty garage, it burned fine. Do you have good draft through your chimney? How about your wood, has it been cut, split, and stacked up off the ground and top covered for at least a year?
More times then not, it ends up being a fuel "wood" problem. You might need to tell us more about your set up and what is going on. Are you giving it full air and leaving the door cracked a few minutes at startup? If you have good seasoned wood and good draft, she oughta burn good.
More times then not, it ends up being a fuel "wood" problem. You might need to tell us more about your set up and what is going on. Are you giving it full air and leaving the door cracked a few minutes at startup? If you have good seasoned wood and good draft, she oughta burn good.
Yeah we need a whole lot more info to be able to help you at all. Type size and height of the chimney type and configuration of the stove pipe. Type size and moisture content of wood or if you don't know that how long has it been cut split and covered?
Auzzie Gumtree
Minister of Fire
- Oct 17, 2012
- 535
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
I had the bigger brother 2500 for a couple seasons, the stove was a pretty good heater, was a decent price because of budget, but literally fell apart on me and did not last, I learned a very valuable lesson, never buy something as vital as a wood stove when its made in China.
To the OP, please read and re-read your manual, make sure you have a minimum 6" flue / chimney height of 12ft (ideally 15ft minimum for best performance) Make sure the baffle boards are slid as far back into the stove as possible, make sure the door gasket is in place, when lighting the stove make sure the air control is pulled out as far as possible.
Use dry wood only, buy a moisture meter and measure the moisture on a fresh split, you should have readings of 20% or lower, anything higher will only give you problems with heavy smoke, no heat, no flames.
Plan on buying a better stove in the near future, the factory door gasket is one of a kind, 1/2" to small 5/8" to big (if I remember correctly) the screws that hold the air tubes in place will eventually strip out and break, the air tubes will eventually start to corrode, the baffle board will start to crumble from the center out. I mention this because to do a proper cleaning you have to remove the air reburn tubes and remove the baffle board, plan on getting a good drill bit and good drill to retap screw holes for the air tubes.
To the OP, please read and re-read your manual, make sure you have a minimum 6" flue / chimney height of 12ft (ideally 15ft minimum for best performance) Make sure the baffle boards are slid as far back into the stove as possible, make sure the door gasket is in place, when lighting the stove make sure the air control is pulled out as far as possible.
Use dry wood only, buy a moisture meter and measure the moisture on a fresh split, you should have readings of 20% or lower, anything higher will only give you problems with heavy smoke, no heat, no flames.
Plan on buying a better stove in the near future, the factory door gasket is one of a kind, 1/2" to small 5/8" to big (if I remember correctly) the screws that hold the air tubes in place will eventually strip out and break, the air tubes will eventually start to corrode, the baffle board will start to crumble from the center out. I mention this because to do a proper cleaning you have to remove the air reburn tubes and remove the baffle board, plan on getting a good drill bit and good drill to retap screw holes for the air tubes.
I have the Country Hearth 2000. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PRODUCT/STOVE ! Do not buy it unless it's for a small work room or very small tightly sealed garage.The blower is almost useless.Doesn't hold any heat. Not good for any home use. A waste of money!. It is meant for a small space and there is barely any heat from this stove. very disapointed. Junk.
What space are you trying to heat? What type size and height chimney do you have? What species and moisture content is the wood you are burning? How are you running the stove? Beleive me i am not a fan of us stove company products but heat output usually is not an issue with these stoves. Durability is the problem
Hello.The space is actually the whole house. It's a two-story, older(100 yrs old) cedar shake colonial. The woodstove was purchased approx 3 years ago at a Tractor Supply by my neighbor for me.Honestly I thought he had better judgment and knowledge. The chimney is relatively new. 4- 5 years old. Originally there was a very good old cast iron stove that was in need of repair. When working properly was great for heating the entire house. Should have held on to that one. I burn mixed hardwoods that are always seasoned. Ash, Red oak, maple. Local seasoned wood. The woodstve and chimney is cleaned every year at the start of the season.
redktmrider
Burning Hunk
What is your definition of seasoned wood? EPA certified stoves need wood with 20% moisture or less, with most hardwoods this requires more than 1 year of the wood being cut, split and stacked outside. Oak often requires 2 years or more to reach this moisture content. A good place to start is to purchase a couple pack of compressed sawdust logs (I believe they are Redstone or Ecobricks at TSC) an give them a try by following the directions on the package. They can be hard to start but once burning will burn well and let you know if its the stove or the fuel.
Also purchase a wood moisture meter. Bring a piece of wood inside for 24 hours, split it, and check the freshly exposed surface with the meter. Properly seasoned wood will be 20% or less.
Thank s for your response. It's not the wood. The people and friends I deal with are in the business of selling seasoned wood and I'm pretty picky. The red oak was seasoned for more than 2 years as well. The problem is this woodstove.
redktmrider
Burning Hunk
The next place I would look is to read the manual (if you have one) carefully and make sure you meet the minimum chimney requirements. If you don't have the manual it is available online at http://www.usstove.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=72_76 .
How high is your chimney, does it have any offsets?
Ok what exactly is going on with the stove? Like i said these are not great stoves but the issues are not with heatoutput. We are willing to help you get it working correctly. But we need to have more info about how you are running the stove and about how it is set up. If you want it to work right we can help. If you just want to complain about the stove let us know that and we wont waste our time.
Yeah but heating a two-story, century-old house might be a struggle for that stove. The old "cast iron" stove they had maybe heated it, loading often enough, or maybe had a bigger box..
Wow...color me confused. I see the OP was from March 2016....he never answered anybody and then someone finds the thread and jump starts the conversation! It's late and I'm tired from shoveling snow. I'm easily confused.
Helen's Hint probably found this thread when searching the forum for her(?) stove, and is obviously not happy with the heat output. She thinks her wood is dry, but won't know for sure without, as redktmrider said, getting some of her larger splits to room temp, re-splitting, and testing on a freshly exposed face with a moisture meter ($14 at Harbor Freight.) She may have been getting away with burning marginally dry wood in the old cast iron smoke-blower stove, but it ain't gonna fly in a modern stove that relies on re-burning the smoke to produce heat. My cat stove, with wood that was around 20% or slightly over, would only get to about 450 on the stove top, over the cat. With the 16-17% wood I'm now burning, that spot on the stove top will go 600+. Heat output loss might not be quite as bad with her tube stove, but it will still make a difference.
@Helen's Hint, are you getting big secondaries shortly after you load the stove?
Take it back immediately and do not replace it with another
It only has a 30-day warranty which is equal to nothing.Get something substantial. there has been nothing but problems and insufficient heat output with this stove. i called TractorSupply and they asked me if i had read the reviews beforehand? I had not. As I said this is not a good woodstove for any home or anyone. Take it back ASAP.Thank you. It could be that the seals need replacing as well. The handle is loose. The chimney is new. The hookup and placement, well it's all spot on according to code.
The old cast iron one was a little larger and held the heat much better. This one just doesn't radiate out much heat or hold it for very long.
How are you running the stove? What temps are you running at on the stove top and the pipe? How far and when are you shutting it back?
It may be to code but that does not mean it is the proper height size and type for your stove.
blacktail
Minister of Fire
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