Creosote in liner tee/Screwing stove pipe collar to tile/concrete board

[holybuzz]

Hi,

I posted a while back about a funky installation of a liner tee:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/31539/

I have more or less "solved" that problem, although I was forced to go with the install as is, no modifications. The consensus was that the natural updraft and negative pressure would negate any smoke problems caused by a liner tee that "goes downhill" away from the room.

I have two new questions:

1. Given that any creosote in the chimney will probably collect in the "elbow" of my liner (the slope of the tee is too severe to allow the creosote to drip BACK toward the stove), and given that I have no way to get at that join other than disconnecting the stove and reaching "through the wall," what are my requirements for cleaning out the join? How often?

2. (An easy one.) What is the best way to attach my masonry adapter (http://www.bizrate.com/fireplaceaccessories/oid730438005.html) to a tiled wall with Durock backing? Take a look at the part. Note that the collar of the adapter isn't flush with the wall. A little tricky. I'm guessing carbide drilled hole and tapcon screws?

Thanks.

 

[begreen]

The consensus was that the natural updraft and negative pressure would negate any smoke problems caused by a liner tee that “goes downhill” away from the room.

This was not a the consensus at all. Smoke does not like to go downhill. Instead of fixing the problem it sounds like it's now been built-in instead.

 

[holybuzz]

Begreen,

The consensus included a lot more people than just the hearth.com posts. (There weren't that many, actually.) And while I and almost everyone else agrees with you that an installer fix would have been the ideal solution, I wasn't ready for a lawyer and fees and another year without a woodstove.

I had a building inspector look at the liner. He said that although it wasn't ideal (duh!), he thought it was functional. He pointed out that the tee slope robbed probably no more than an inch or so of draft volume—not enough, in his opinion, to require a re-do. I also spoke with Selkirk, the maker of the connector pipe. They also said that, while not perfect, the install could stand.

As for "building in" the error, unfortunately it was already built-in. The vermiculite insulation had already been poured and had dried, and, according a couple of opinions I got, removing it may have compromised the masonry because the vermiculite bonds with the masonry. And it's a 75-year-old chimney.

I appreciate your concern, and I wish I hadn't taken the installer's word for the install, but I am forced by circumstances to move forward.

Any ideas about the other questions I had? The creosote/clean-out question is my biggest concern.

Thanks.

Keith

 

[begreen]

Got it, that's new information. I was hoping that removing some brick below the thimble in order to straighten out the slope was an option. But it sounds like not.

Cleaning, as noted, will require taking the connector out of the thimble and shoveling/vacuuming out the elbow. The best solution is to be absolutely sure that only well seasoned wood is burned. That will help keep accumulations to a minimum. If the stove is burned hot, it may go for more than a year before it needs cleaning.

 

[holybuzz]

Begreen,

Thanks again. My wood is loosely stacked in a VERY airy garage. It is from early this season, but it should be OK. I'll clean out often just to be sure.

What about screwing into tile and underlying concrete board? FYI: the screws will have to be thin, maybe 1'8. For some reason, that's the width of the holes in the collar.

Can't say that I have a lot of good things to say about the Selkirk web site in terms of install info. The screws on the adapter collar aren't even mentioned in the literature. I had to ask tech support about what to do with them, and all they said to do was "attach" them.

Any help?

Keith