Cub Cadet won't start.

[lobsta1]

Posted this on tractorbynet & thought I would also give it a shot here.

My 15 year old CC has been having intermittent problems turning over. This is on a 12 hp Kohler. Finally had to resort to jumpimg the solenoid today. Got a bunch of the yard done today & took a break. Tried to start & no go. Even jumping the solenoid wouldn't work. Found no spark to the plug when turning over & headlights were off. Replaced the solenoid & no change.

Don't have a wiring diagram. Pulled the ignition switch out but with no diagram I don't know what is supposed to make to what. There is also something that looks like an old horn relay with two red wires on it.With the key on, I do have 12v on the red wires. Also have 12v at one of the red wires in back of the switch.

If I jumper direct from the battery to battery post to the starter, the motor cranks but no spark at plug & no headlights & no reading on volt meter.This is with the key in any position. Same thing if I pull the little wire off the solenoid & put jumper on the small lug.

As you can see, I'm just fumbling here. Could I have the battery wires reversed on the solenoid? Reason I ask is the replacement has the small lug in line with the post going to the starter. The original has it in line with the post to the battery.

Please Help
Thanks
Al

 

[kabbott]

If the solenoid operates with a jumper from the battery positive to the small terminal it is working, if not the ground(mounting bolts ?) may be bad.
If i remember correctly it doesn't matter which big post you use on a solenoid with one small terminal.
the small relay may be just for the ignition, not sure. My cub is much older and totally different.
The newer (relative to mine) cubs with the electric PTO clutch run from the ignition switch through the PTO switch and also seat safety switch when
the PTO is on. It could be the PTO switch, I have replaced one on my sisters twice.
Sorry I cant help with the diagram but you should be able to find something with google.

 

[lobsta1]

I'm wondering if the "horn relay" is actually a shunt for the meter. No electric PTO & I disabled the seat switch years ago. After I came inside tonight I thought of putting a ground jumper to the solenoid case. Will try that in the morning.
Thanks for the reply.
Al

 

[fbelec]

is the motor turning over when you turn the key?
also if it is turning over the motor (spinning the motor) and there is no spark you need to check the coil where the spark plug wire goes to, and the spark plug wire itself. you can check the coil with a ohm meter. if it has points check and make sure that the contacts are not gray. if they are gray change them and gap them. if electronic ignition you might need to replace the pickup at the flywheel. the pickup at the flywheel gets turned on everytime the flywheel makes 1 revolution. might be a alum flywheel with a piece of cast iron or steel at one spot on the flywheel. that has a certain gap also. but the first thing that i would do is with a volt meter make sure you have voltage coming out of the starting key switch. if nothing, it's a nice easy change out and your on your way. btw, my tractor will not turn on the headlights if the motor is not running .

 

[fbelec]

I'm wondering if the "horn relay" is actually a shunt for the meter. No electric PTO & I disabled the seat switch years ago. After I came inside tonight I thought of putting a ground jumper to the solenoid case. Will try that in the morning.
Thanks for the reply.
Al

that relay my be for the headlights. unless you have a horn. horn might not be a bad idea. it could be be a (get me a beer please) option

 

[lobsta1]

Came up with a wiring schematic. The "relay" turned out to be a deck switch even though it was under the dash panel. Discovered there is also a neutral safety switch under the chassis.Started jumpering & bypassing everything I could. Found that the no headlights was a red herring. Turns out they only work when the ignition switch is turned from the "run" to the "light" position. Never noticed that before since I don't cut the grass in the dark.

Just got it started. Don't know if it was my reconnecting all the mate-n-lock connectors, my probing around or the neutral switch. Think it was a combination of everything with a leaning towards the neutral switch.It was a little to wet & cold to be laying on the ground pulling the deck & trying to pull the switch. It was all I could do to get my fingertips on it to poke around. I think I will pick one up & replace it anyways.
Al

 

[colebrookman]

Pick up some electrical grease, small tube, and use it on any connection. We started to use in on our plow and sanding trucks and it saved a lot of headaches from corroded contacts. Be safe.
Ed