Cutting Ceiling Hole

[porkweez]

Do most folks position the mega-heavy stove in place first, and then measure/cut ceiling hole, etc.... or vice versa? It seems easier to first work on a ladder and prep the stove pipe hole overhead, then move the wood stove into place when ready to hook up.

 

[begreen]

It all depends on how well one measures. We taped out the stove perimeter and flue outlet center on the hearth, then dropped a plumb bob down from the ceiling to locate the hole. Putting the stove there to use as a measuring point is even safer and maybe faster if you have a helper. After that, it will depend on the ceiling joist locations, which may force some adjustment.

 

[Highbeam]

I've always cut out the ceiling before the stove is placed. I'm a plumb bob owner and user. Plus, the clearances are usually written so that the flue pipe controls the stove location. You certainly want a vertical flue pipe so get the ceiling hole right first. Set the ceiling support box. Then go up and deal with the chimney through the roof. Finally, set the stove and last install the connector pipe.

 

[begreen]

Note that when framing in the ceiling support box, use long decking screws to attach the 2x's to the joists instead of nailing. That will stop screw or nail heads popping out on the ceiling.

 

[DougA]

Do the ceiling first, after you find out where the joists are. I was forced to use 2 - 30 deg elbows and a 1 ft piece between them.

 

[porkweez]

I appreciate the quick replies. Great advice. I almost dread moving that behemoth again, but finishing the project will be worth it!

 

[bholler]

We set the stove and use a plumb bob to locate the hole and if it hits framing we usually modify the framing if practical (which it is not always) But we have a stove cart to help with the moving

 

[Highbeam]

If the stove is pretty much where you want it, I would try to work around it. They aren't fun to move. Your ceiling hole needn't be perfect anyway and you can always move the stove an inch or two at the end.

 

[BobUrban]

You can cut a ceiling joist and box in around it so no worries if you land on one and want a straight shot. No need to use multiple elbows and such.

 

[bholler]

You can cut a ceiling joist and box in around it

I know you know better but you didnt state it clearly if you cut a joist you need to transfer that load to the adjacent joists and check to make sure those joists are large enough to take the extra load

 

[Highbeam]

I know you know better but you didnt state it clearly if you cut a joist you need to transfer that load to the adjacent joists and check to make sure those joists are large enough to take the extra load

Here's how I dealt with it in the barn. Use real joist hangers. This is structural.

 

[bholler]

This is structural.

Looks good as long as those adjacent joists are large enough to handle the added load.

 

[Alex C]

I just did a ceiling box install on an already finished ceiling. I have tongue and groove pine ceilings, so an accurate cut was pretty important. I lucked out and placed my stove right where one side of the ceiling box was against a joist. I then boxed in the other three sides with 2x. I was careful to fasten the additional three sides well, as the ceiling box supports the chimney above it. Best of luck with your install.

 

[turbojoe]

Here's how I dealt with it in the barn. Use real joist hangers. This is structural.

That isn't going anywhere soon..lol.. Looks good

 

[porkweez]

Ok, I cut the joist to place the box where I wanted it, and framed in with joist supports, etc, in good carpentry fashion. Cutting the roof went well, and flashing and chimney pipe is all up now. I was able to build a support bracket from angle iron and secure the stack. All that's left is to position the monster and connect stove pipes.