Damper construction 1979 Resolute

[Jrzgrl]

Been burning my wood stove for a while now, love the heat. The damper handle on the side only goes to the 5o'clock position and meets a lot of resistance. I know it is suppose to do this, then with more force go to the 6 o'clock position but I can't seem to force it any further. Anyway, now I can't get it to open. It is stuck at 5 o'clock. Any suggestions what I should do? Can't open the door to put more wood in because the smoke will come out. I will let the fire go out, but what should I look into doing when I can open it up? Should this part have been oiled or treated somehow to be easier to maneuver? Thanks for any help you can send my way.

 

[homebrewz]

Something is hanging up in there. These are old parts and there might be a little bit of play in them leaving room for something to hang up. Also, sometimes the damper plate can become warped especially if the stove was over-fired by previous owners. Take a look around and see if you see any place where the handle and the two ears of the damper plate are hanging up. Remove loose pieces of creosote and check for warping.

 

[Jrzgrl]

Something is hanging up in there. These are old parts and there might be a little bit of play in them leaving room for something to hang up. Also, sometimes the damper plate can become warped especially if the stove was over-fired by previous owners. Take a look around and see if you see any place where the handle and the two ears of the damper plate are hanging up. Remove loose pieces of creosote and check for warping.

Thanks for responding. I'm the original owner and it's never been over-fired. Tried looking in through front door but can't get a good look. My friend is thinking of taking the back off and looking. Is this a good idea or should I have him forget that idea? We were able to get the handle to move again so we can open and close the damper . The damper plate just doesn't seem to close tight. There is a very small gap.

 

[homebrewz]

I would avoid taking the back off unless you want to partially disassemble the stove and give it a good cleaning and replace the gaskets, which is probably not a bad idea at some point. Fly ash accumulation in air passages will eventually lead to lower performance.

Can you look at the damper surface from the door or the griddle top? The damper surface will probably have a gasket. It's possible that has become dislodged and will need to be replaced.

 

[Jrzgrl]

I would avoid taking the back off unless you want to partially disassemble the stove and give it a good cleaning and replace the gaskets, which is probably not a bad idea at some point. Fly ash accumulation in air passages will eventually lead to lower performance.

Can you look at the damper surface from the door or the griddle top? The gasket surface will probably have a gasket. It's possible that has become dislodged and will need to be replaced.

Thanks again. We will keep the back on for now. I can see the damper plate move up close and lay flat when open but I don't see a grove for a gasket. I'll have to see if I can find a diagram of how the inside should look. I have the books that came with the stove but no diagram of the damper assembly. Thanks again for your suggestions.

 

[homebrewz]

You're welcome. I'm sure with a little looking around you will get it sorted out.

It sounds like the damper may not have a gasket then. Check this article out. It has instructions for cleaning around the damper area.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/operate-an-older-vc-resolute/

You might be able to find a parts diagram by looking up your stove here.

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/catalog.aspx

 

[fbelec]

not sure if your stove is like mine but i run a 1978 defiant and there is no gasket for the damper in mine. it just sits against the lip that is attached to the top on mine. i was thinking the same thing when i rebuilt my stove and found some flat gasket at the stove shop and cemented the gasket all around the damper for a tighter seal. the stove was not meant to have a tight seal. why is beyond me. but installed gasketing all around the damper and got the stove to run smokeless. if your damper is getting stuck in position most likely if your stove is built like mine is you have a warped fireback. all it needs to do is move 1/4 inch and your done.

 

[defiant3]

If it has a single front door, and the fireback has never been replaced, then it's likely time for a fireback kit. KInd of a nasty job.

 

[TonyP]

I would avoid taking the back off unless you want to partially disassemble the stove and give it a good cleaning and replace the gaskets, which is probably not a bad idea at some point. Fly ash accumulation in air passages will eventually lead to lower performance.

Can you look at the damper surface from the door or the griddle top? The damper surface will probably have a gasket. It's possible that has become dislodged and will need to be replaced.

Could be a damper linkage issue. I replaced mine, and will tell you that if the nut holding the linkage together is out of place, you're getting nowhere without disassembly.