Damper on newer stoves

[Light in the Dark]

Thoughts all? On very cold, and very windy nights... my Jotul damn near rumbles as the air is being sucked through and out of it as fast as it can go. I feel like I would benefit in adding one to my setup (about 8' of double wall black up to a cathedral box, then out to 9' of SS). I can shut the stove damper down as far as it will go, and on these nights... it does nothing. I certainly dont want a runaway situation, and think this can only help?

I see this one (which should work with my piping): http://www.efireplacestore.com/cpf-7740-dspdamper.html#qa

Any of you use one on newer stoves?

 

[CTYank]

What model stove? What do you mean by "stove damper" (which is generally on the discharge side)? Do you mean "draft control"? How do you estimate the air throughput? Or, is the noise coming from the spark arrestor at the flue exit? One problem with dampers is that users forget to check that one is open, on subsequent startup.

On stoves I've run, I'd say a damper is quite unnecessary. Just don't know anything about yours, and hope someone does.

 

[begreen]

If the pipe is very tall and the draft is very strong then a draft damper may be helpful.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Jotul Rangely CTYank. The total chimney, including pipe is 18-20' straight up from the stove, no bends. The stove is hooked up to a long OAK, and you can feel and hear the stove ripping air through it... so I think if I can stop the draft a bit, then I should not only be able to control the fire in a safer manner on those nights, but also potentially slow the draft slightly on other nights to keep more heat in the box.

 

[Sprinter]

That stack height wouldn't normally be high enough to cause excess draft by itself. But with very cold temps and high winds and the right surrounding geography, maybe you would benefit from a key damper. At least it couldn't hurt as long as you only use it when you need it. First, though, make sure your air control is operating properly and not staying open too far.

Oh, also, make sure that the intake for the OAK isn't exposed directly to the wind causing the wind to blow air in!

 

[cheechblu]

I have a high stack also and the draft was over firing my stove to where I've had to redo the inside of my Jotul twice in the past 3 years. I put a key damper in an so far it has been a blessing. After my fire is going good, I've been closing the damper in quarter increments till my stove top is 600*. At that point it's closed all the way and from 550*, I'm doing the same with the stove intake valve. Closing it in quarterly increments approx. every five mins. Now when everything is closed, I'm getting a nice long burn with secondaries dancing around. Using less wood and the stove stays much hotter for much longer. And I'm still learning how to work it best.

 

[Sprinter]

I have a high stack also and the draft was over firing my stove to where I've had to redo the inside of my Jotul twice in the past 3 years. I put a key damper in an so far it has been a blessing. After my fire is going good, I've been closing the damper in quarter increments till my stove top is 600*. At that point it's closed all the way and from 550*, I'm doing the same with the stove intake valve. Closing it in quarterly increments approx. every five mins. Now when everything is closed, I'm getting a nice long burn with secondaries dancing around. Using less wood and the stove stays much hotter for much longer. And I'm still learning how to work it best.

cheechblu: Just curious, how tall is your stack overall? I'm interested in the conditions that can cause excessive draft. This is one place where EPA requirements for new stove design can cause problems, since air intake can only be shut down so far. Don't know if this is part of the OP's problem, and I don't want the thread to go astray, but it could be relevant.

 

[cheechblu]

Sprinter: my stack is 22 feet. Pipe is pretty much a straight run. 2 approx. 20 degree bends.

 

[Scott2373]

Resurrecting an old thread here, since I don't want to start a new one on the same subject. To the OP or anyone who has input, I too have a Jotul Rangeley F 50 TL and was wondering if anyone has had success with a damper on this stove. I have about 25' of stainless double wall Duravent w/ two 45's outside and about 9' of single wall Duravent w/ one 90deg to the thimble. My draft is adequate and I can get some good long burn times using only slab wood from a local pallet maker, but it seems like sometimes it burns a lot faster than normal, probably due to the elevation and wide open land that my house sits on and the insane straight-on winds we get due to no treeline nearby. I'm also using a Vacu-Stack due to wind/starting problems we had in the past and happy to report that this thing is a miracle worker! Thanks very much!

 

[cheechblu]

Scott, our homes have similar situations. Wide open, etc. Slab wood definitely takes off on it's own. I have a different model Jotul, and the pipe damper I had installed this past summer has been a stove AND wood saver. It's true, that you have to pay a little more attention to the stove after re-loads, but it's worth it. It sounds like you are researching this thoroughly, so whatever conclusion you arrive at I'm sure will be the best for your set-up. Good luck.

 

[brad wilton]

i have approx 32ft of flexliner with double wall black pipe from stove never had draft issues ,but it does howl like a banshee in a good wind