do you silicone your black pipe connections?

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slickschoppers

New Member
Dec 1, 2017
65
iowa
i'm going through the manual for the Englander 30-nc and I want to verify the following...

"Chimney Connector Pipe The black pipe must be six inches (6”) in diameter and at least 24 gauge steel pipe. Do not use aluminum or galvanized steel pipe, as it will not withstand the extreme temperatures generated by the stove. Also, do not use single wall connector pipe as a chimney -- you must connect your stove to a chimney comparable to those listed earlier in this manual. The crimped end of your pipe should be inserted into the flue collar and, by doing this, all the pipe will be reversed. If you use this method the creosote will run back down the inside of your pipe and not out of the joints onto your stove. As a safety precaution, all joints should be sealed with high temperature silicone (AC-RTV3) and secured with sheet metal screws."


so? you put high temp silicone on all of the chimney joints? that silicone is only rated to 425 degrees?

I didn't think you needed to put ANY sealant on the single wall, just assemble with a tight fit and 3 to 4 screws per joint???
 
I do use high temp silicone from Rutland. The clear stuff. Also screws. I leave one joint I'm the middle not silicone for cleaning purposes. This is where I take it apart. Also I silicone where my pipe goes into my masonry chimney really well to prevent draft problems.

Don't start the stove until the silicone is cured or it will bubble and look bad.
 
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I use the black high temp from O'reilly auto parts. I think it's good to 650 degrees. It's held up for 5 years so far.
 
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Mine seems to be holding up fine and I will always use it on my pipe. I like my pipe to be as sealed as possible.
 
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Mine seems to be holding up fine and I will always use it on my pipe. I like my pipe to be as sealed as possible.
It it totally unnecessary and in most i have seen it ends up burning out and smelling awful
 
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No
 
ok,,, I'm going to go WITHOUT any type of sealer, and just make sure my pipes fit snug like they should, and have 3 to 4 screws per pipe.

I'll start a post with pictures and details when I get all of the parts in and start the project....
 
It it totally unnecessary and in most i have seen it ends up burning out and smelling awful

Maybe people are using regular silicone not high temp? Not sure. Never had an issue. Maybe it's not needed but I like it. Every spring when I clean my pipe I pull off most of it and reapply it.
 
I've never done it myself.

It's not code up here to do it. Three screws is all. Irks me though that it's right there in the manufacturers instructions which in chain of code command is where the buck stops.
 
Maybe people are using regular silicone not high temp? Not sure. Never had an issue. Maybe it's not needed but I like it. Every spring when I clean my pipe I pull off most of it and reapply it.
No even high temp can easily be overheated. What temps does your pipe reach?
 
I've never used sealant there. Sometimes furnace cement may be necessary at the flue collar, but not at the pipe joints. If there is leakage then it is indicative of another problem.
 
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When I do my morning blazer my pipe can get above 500 measured with a magnet thermometer. Usually it runs around 300 though.
 
No sealants of any kind . . .