Does anyone have experience with the Morso 3100 series (badger)?

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braddock

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I have a cabin in North Mississippi. I'm adding on to the existing cabin and taking it from 400 to 900 sq. ft. The original cabin has a loft and vaulted ceiling. The additions on either side of the existing structure have vaulted ceilings as well. I want this cabin to be as self-sufficient as possible, and I think a wood burning stove would be a perfect heat source. The idea of some venison stew simmering away in a dutch oven on top of the stove is a bonus I can't resist. I have been looking at the Morso line of stoves and I'm leaning toward the 3112. I believe they call this line the badger.

http://www.morsoe.com/us/Products/Stoves/3100/Model_3112/Morsø+3112.htm

I was previously considering the Morso squirrel, but the badger is rated to 1000 sq. ft. The squirrel is only rated to 800 sq. ft. My dealer says that Morso usually understates the sq. footage their stoves can heat though. While the badger does have a slightly larger firebox than the squirrel, I'm still limited to a 12" log length. I'm planning on cutting my own timber so that shouldn't be too much of a problem beyond the low 7 hr estimated burn time.

It's nearly impossible to find any pictures or information on the Morso 3112 on the internet beyond the stock photos and product specs. If anyone has experience with the badger or another recommendation for my situation I would really appreciate it. I've enjoyed browsing and searching this forum, and I can't wait to learn the ins and outs of wood burning.
 
It looks like a pretty small firebox. It wouldn't surprise me if the burn time spec was very optimistic. I'll be installing a small Morso for some friends soon. They have similar requirements and settled on the 2110.
 
Former Morso owner here. After examining the 3112 manual, I would guess that it is a pretty mild-mannered performer. The primary air preheating chamber almost completely covers the entire top plate of the stove. This acts as an insulator to that primary heat exchange surface in a stove (though the intense air pre-heating is good for keeping the front window clean,) resulting in more heat up the chimney than a design that leaves the top plate clear.
 
I have vaulted ceilings and they increase the demands on any stove. Not sure if that stove will be large enough, but I do question Precaud as to the air wash system. Many stoves have air wash systems, looking at the diagram of the 3112 I am not sure it covers the entire top, but looks like it runs down the middle. My 3610 has the air wash system and my stove top is quite evenly hot across the top and similar side temperatures. By closing the draft, you reduce exhaust, and increase heat absorption. By blowing hot air back down the glass and into the stove box, your actually getting a second chance at absorbing more heat, through the sides and again at the top of the stove as it returns.

How else would you run an air-wash system, if not down the front? I am not saying I am right, just that I question if there is reduction of heat from the top of the stove.
 
Smokey said:
Many stoves have air wash systems, looking at the diagram of the 3112 I am not sure it covers the entire top, but looks like it runs down the middle.
I didn't say it covered the entire top. It covers most of it.

My 3610 has the air wash system and my stove top is quite evenly hot across the top and similar side temperatures.
That's not the point. If the airwash channel wasn't covering it, the top would be significantly hotter. Makes sense if you think about it. You can't give energy to preheating without losing it elsewhere.

By closing the draft, you reduce exhaust, and increase heat absorption. By blowing hot air back down the glass and into the stove box, your actually getting a second chance at absorbing more heat, through the sides and again at the top of the stove as it returns.
Unlikely that actually works to the benefit of efficiency.

How else would you run an air-wash system, if not down the front?
Many stoves have airwash channels that run along the front perimeter. Much less efficiency penalty. I've owned several examples of both types of designs (have one of each now) and top plates without any venting channels are much hotter, period.
 
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