Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount
Use code Hearth2024
Click here
When I use my depth gauge to file down the rakers on my chainsaw chain, the file of course rubs the gauge itself. I'm assuming that the metal of the gauge is sufficiently hard that I don't need to worry about it getting worn down. Right?
Remember, you need a progressive depth gauge (like the carlton file o plate)........ the ones from stihl and oregon are virtually worthless after the first filing or two as they are not progressive as the tooth length decreases.
edit: The stihl one is great for cleaning the bar groove of debri.
Not to get off topic, but......I've been thinking about an electric grinding wheel. Videos show touching up the rakers with the wheel at 90deg - makes sense. But....do you have to go back and round the front of the rakers by hand? Cheers!
Not to get off topic, but......I've been thinking about an electric grinding wheel. Videos show touching up the rakers with the wheel at 90deg - makes sense. But....do you have to go back and round the front of the rakers by hand? Cheers!
Not to get off topic, but......I've been thinking about an electric grinding wheel. Videos show touching up the rakers with the wheel at 90deg - makes sense. But....do you have to go back and round the front of the rakers by hand? Cheers!
Not to get off topic, but......I've been thinking about an electric grinding wheel. Videos show touching up the rakers with the wheel at 90deg - makes sense. But....do you have to go back and round the front of the rakers by hand? Cheers!
The idea is to "dress" the 1/4" grinding wheel (thicker than what you'd use for the cutters on just about any chain) to shape the rakers.
We had a dedicated grinder for rakers when I worked for a dealer, was faster than changing the setup of the main grinder. The 2nd grinder doesn't have to be fancy either.
The idea is to "dress" the 1/4" grinding wheel (thicker than what you'd use for the cutters on just about any chain) to shape the rakers.
We had a dedicated grinder for rakers when I worked for a dealer, was faster than changing the setup of the main grinder. The 2nd grinder doesn't have to be fancy either.