Double barrel wood stove DIY plans?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
As a long time owner of a double barrel stove, I gave you some good advice. You ignored my advice and argued against it.
Since you are a self proclaimed "do-it-your-selfer" I figured I would let you do it yourself.
 
I used Red RTV rated to 650 degrees It seemed to work fine all summer no burn off issues. The connection collar is 6" ID and my upper and lower barrel are about 4-5" apart.
 
Simonkenton said:
As a long time owner of a double barrel stove, I gave you some good advice. You ignored my advice and argued against it.
Since you are a self proclaimed "do-it-your-selfer" I figured I would let you do it yourself.
Click to expand...

I asked why it was necessary to be able to take them apart. You never responded. Other than that your advice was to use a particular brand of stove and buy the kit. That wasn't an option.

So exactly what good advice did you give?

By the way, when you commented about welding the connector pipe in, it was already welded in, the previous day in fact. I would have considered what you had to say as to why it need to be not welded but you never replied.

So I ask again, why do they need to come apart?

Nobody replied to my baffle question, nobody replied to my vent pipe in the top or the back question. What exactly is someone supposed to do that's building one when nobody replies? I was very clear about the time frame I had to work with...still nothing.
 
Owen1508 said:
I'll have to measure the distance between the two when I get home. The ID of the connector is 6"
Click to expand...
Owen1508 said:
I think that is correct.. I put the connector collar to the rear, I didn't install a smoke stack on the upper barrel, If I were I would put it in the front
Click to expand...
I answered what I knew about nothing more
 
  • Like
Reactions: jaded13640
Owen1508 said:
I used Red RTV rated to 650 degrees It seemed to work fine all summer no burn off issues. The connection collar is 6" ID and my upper and lower barrel are about 4-5" apart.
Click to expand...


Thanks owen. Is that the orange hi temp gasket sealer you're talking about? The reason I ask is because I've never seen it by rating before, just the old rule of thumb, blue for water, black for oil and orange is good for higher temp applications.

Wayne
 
Owen1508 said:
I answered what I knew about nothing more
Click to expand...

That comment wasn't intended for you. You have replied to direct questions. I appreciated it too. I started to get confused about your situation because you're using yours as a barbeque and I wasn't sure if I could use the same information. But as far as the basic consctruction is concerned you've been quite helpful.

Thanks,

Wayne
 
  • Like
Reactions: Owen1508
Owen1508 said:
http://www.zoro.com/i/G2726263/?utm...hopping_Feed&gclid=CKGR1P3B3sECFW4F7AodjB8AWQ

You can also try MilPac it is a resin (in a tube like caulking) it is rated to 1050 Degrees
Click to expand...


That would be a great idea for up where the stack comes through the roofing. Keep the elements out and tollerate the heat. On the stove I used last year I ran the vent pipe up about 6 feet with a dampner then out the side of the building and straight up above the peak about a foot. The new stove will be more toward the center of the building and so the vent will need to go straight up and through the roof.
 
Just use the 3-2-20 rule. 3 foot min. from roof penetration and 2 feet higher then anything within 10 feet
 
Can anyone help me with posting images? I put it on photobucket and pasted the URL in like I always do when I want to post a pic on other forums but it's not working here. What's the trick?
I'd like to post the pictures of the finished stove in action but I can't figure out how.

Is anyone able to answer my question about baffling? I was considering doing some baffling work in the upper barrel. It would be pretty easy work given that the barrels are of the removable lid type. I was thinking about doing something like the inside of a car muffler. Just basically a maze for the heat to go around so that it stays in the upper barrel a little longer allowing it to radiate out instead of just up the chimney.
Has anyone else ever done this?
Even if you've never done it or don't know anyone who has, throw out some ideas that might work. Like for example maybe just puting in square pieces of sheet metal by welding them in at the corners would slow down the flow of heat enough to "steal" a little more heat before it escapes up the stack. BUT maybe any restriction up there would screw up the draft and defeat the whole purpose.

By the way, the stove works awesome! I can't believe the amount of heat it puts out! I'm working in an old pole barn with ZERO insulation other than some plastic sheating I put up on the celing and hung from the celing as a partition wall. The building is 30 feet deep and 80 feet long. With no insulation it would be a loosing battle to attempt to heat the whole place. So the partition is a necessity. The plan is to do some more insulating now that I have a new roof on the shop but I've been so insanely busy for the past 2 months I haven't even been able to keep up with my work let alone work on the shop. Last weekend we put a roof on the other pole building because it needed to get done before it got any later in the winter. The roof on the shop I'm working out of is done other than some of the corner trim along the gables. Getting those up will help reduce the wind blowing in.

Simonkenton, I'm still waiting to hear what advice you actually gave other than to buy a particular kit and that the barrels needed to be removable. I asked why because I can only imagine cleaning and service being a reason to remove the barrels. Just because I'm a "self proclaimed do it yourselfer" doesn't mean I know how to do everything.

Forums used to be for people to come and ask questions and get answers as in, "I don't know anything about this, how do I do it?" They used to be for the DIY'rs and people were members to help them. But they've evolved into groups of people that don't want to share ideas other than say things like, "as a diy'er I thought I'd let you do it yourself". That's not what forums are for. The "do it yourselfer" thing was obviously about building it myself. I was very clear about not knowing exactly how to do so. I posted questions that needed answers right away, not a week later and not "you shouldn't weld them together" without explaining why or why not.

Wayne
 
Wow I really want to see this thing. Try copy/pasting just the url without the IMG or URL tags. We should be able to click on those no problem.
 
Here's what I have
 

Attachments

  • Smoker back.jpg
    Smoker back.jpg
    224.6 KB · Views: 320
I would be putting a setup like this into my barn. I too hate salamanders with a passion.
 
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Ashkapp
Barrel stove in a greenhouse
Replies
25
Views
690
Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)
Ashkapp
Ashkapp
J
New member- new to wood stoves
Replies
20
Views
1K
Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)
BKVP
BKVP
O
First wood stove, converting an old church into cabin with 60s firewood view stove. Many questions, please help :)
Replies
2
Views
754
Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)
bholler
B
F
8" Double Wall stove pipe fit Hutch Rebel
Replies
1
Views
387
Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)
begreen
begreen
J
DIY Furnace
Replies
11
Views
1K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
JayG
J
Top Bottom
Back