Ducting heat from basement installed stove

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corkyscott

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Aug 19, 2009
24
Central Vermont
Hi folks, I'm a newbie to this forum, but not a newbie to heating with a wood stove. My question concerns; what is the best material to use to wrap an enclosure around a wood stove such as to duct the heat to various parts of the upstairs.

Here's the background. My wife and I have lived in central Vermont for more than 34 years. We built a small kit log home and have heated it entirely by wood stove for the first 10 years or so, then installed an LP furnace with radiant floor heating. We kept the wood stove because the power in our area is subject to periodic outages, some of which can last for days.

Initially, we owned a Riteway stove which was a sheet steel rectangular design incorporating a magnet and spring to automatically adjust the air flow. It was a beast and a bit scary to operate. We'd pack it with seasoned wood last thing in the evening, get the fire going and then turn the dial down for the night and hit the sack. The fire would eventually die down during the night, cooling the bi-metalic spring attached by chain to the hinged air door. This wound up and eventually overcame the magnet holding it closed and it would pop open, noisily jangling on the chain. This allowed lots of air into the stove and the fire would cook up. All this could be heard from our upstairs bedroom. The fire would roar, the stove would clank and bang as the slab sides heated up and bulged outwards and then the sides of the stove would begin to ominously glow orange. Followed by the air door clanking shut as the bi-metalic spring heated up and unwound after which the stove would hiss furiously as the now thoroughly burning wood sought to draw in air from every oriface.

But it did heat the house for 5 years or so. We were young, split our own log length wood each summer/fall and carried it inside when needed. That got old quickly. When we built the foundation, we put in a smallish door in it which we'd intended to use to chuck wood into the basement for storage.

We moved the stove downstairs, cut a largish hole in the floor above it and covered it with a crate, then tried to heat the house that way. It worked, sort of, but needed improvement to get the heat into the back rooms.

So I built a shroud over the stove to capture the heat and fed it into large ducts that I constructed of used large diameter heating ducting. I figured that the heat would rise up and just flow to the back rooms and up through grates in the floor there. It did.

By this time we were using a locally built stove called the "Freeflow", designed and built by Eric Darnell. It was a very large stove and could take up to 24 inch wood. It was controlled by a single butterfly air valve and we managed with that for many years.

But the stove is a series of tubes welded together and they have cracked at the interior bends which is smokey, not to say dangerous. We have bought a replacement stove from Vermont Castings called the Duthwest model CDW300007. This is a plate steel version and incorporates modern reburn technology. We have no need of a pretty stove, as it sits in the basement and we don't watch the fire burn.

I would like to enclose this stove, like I did the other one, for which I used sheet steel and lots and lots of pop rivets. But 30 years have gone by since I built that and in order to allow for the new stove's installation, I have removed the old shroud.

So back to the question: Is there a material available today that would make a good stove enclosure to capture it's heat so that it flows into the heat ducting? I wrapped fiberglass insulation around the original shroud to keep the heat within the ducting and this worked, but I'd rather not wrap the new shroud the same way. It got covered with dust and probably wasn't a very good idea in terms of safety, although it never burned or smoldered because I kept the shroud away from the stove.

I'm thinking of metal framing at the moment, either metal studs or predrilled thin steel angle and ordinary sheet metal, or fireproof slab insulation for the sides, if such a thing exists. I would frame doors for loading wood into the stove and leave cuttouts along the base to allow air to flow in to be heated by the stove. New to me, I am also planning to duct outside air to the stove so that it does not draw it's air for combustion from the interior of the house. Naturally, this duct will have to have an anti rodent screen over it's outside nozzle, those critters can enter the house from the tiniest openings.

Any ideas?

Many thanks, Corky Scott
 
Before going through all of that, I would just purchase a furnace that is meant to be ducted into ductwork. Most are not too efficient, but effectively heat the home evenly. There are some furnaces that are EPA certified, but of course comes price. Ceiling fans, or box fans can make a world of difference on spreading the heat.
 
laynes69 said:
Before going through all of that, I would just purchase a furnace that is meant to be ducted into ductwork. Most are not too efficient, but effectively heat the home evenly. There are some furnaces that are EPA certified, but of course comes price. Ceiling fans, or box fans can make a world of difference on spreading the heat.

I appreciate your comment but should repeat that the new stove has been purchased. I should also mention that the earlier "Freeflow", with it's insulated shroud which captured the heat from the stove and directed it to the two other rooms besides the main room above it, actually did heat the house to our satisfaction.

It is because of this earlier success, that we plan to enclose our new stove, which although smaller, should burn far more efficiently and with less pollution.

What I'm trying to do is find out if there is a material that I could use to enclose the new stove, that would be a better material than the original fiberglass insulated sheet metal.

Many thanks, Corky Scott
 
When I moved into my house there was a Fisher stove in the basement. The previous owner had setup a hood about 3' above the stove with a duct running across the ceiling pointing into the kitchen. This setup provided little heat. I made some improvements,
I lowered the hood so it is just above the stove, I added a thermostatically controlled fan in the duct, and added a wall of fire brick about 6" behind the stove to retain the heat.

This made a good improvement, it would heat the upstairs to a reasonable extent. I added a insulated baffle and secondary air tubes
to the stove for some additional improvement.

Last year I got a great deal on a used Regency stove which I installed upstairs in the living room, the difference was amazing, the stove is about half the size of the Fisher, but puts out plenty of heat to keep the upstairs warm.

So the ideal solution IMO would to relocate the stove up stairs.

No stove manufacturer would condone enclosing/ ducting a stove that was not specifically designed for it, also it would likly be a code violation.

That said, you might consider using a hood over the stove and fire brick on 3 sides of the stove, it may be a good idea to leave the front open. Enclosing a stove increases the risk of over heating, and generally not recommended.
 

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Well said. Putting any ducted ventilation system within 10 feet of the stove is a code violation. Heating an uninsulated basement can be silly unless you have a strong desire to keep the earth within a 10' perimeter around the house warmer than ambient.
 
WES999 said:
When I moved into my house there was a Fisher stove in the basement. The previous owner had setup a hood about 3' above the stove with a duct running across the ceiling pointing into the kitchen. This setup provided little heat. I made some improvements,
I lowered the hood so it is just above the stove, I added a thermostatically controlled fan in the duct, and added a wall of fire brick about 6" behind the stove to retain the heat.

This made a good improvement, it would heat the upstairs to a reasonable extent. I added a insulated baffle and secondary air tubes
to the stove for some additional improvement.

Last year I got a great deal on a used Regency stove which I installed upstairs in the living room, the difference was amazing, the stove is about half the size of the Fisher, but puts out plenty of heat to keep the upstairs warm.

So the ideal solution IMO would to relocate the stove up stairs.

No stove manufacturer would condone enclosing/ ducting a stove that was not specifically designed for it, also it would likly be a code violation.

That said, you might consider using a hood over the stove and fire brick on 3 sides of the stove, it may be a good idea to leave the front open. Enclosing a stove increases the risk of over heating, and generally not recommended.

I appreciate the comment and the photo. The enclosure I had made for the stove was a LOT bigger than the hood in your photo, and captured a lot of the heat. It extended down the sides of the stove but not all the way to the floor. Maybe about halfway.

But the bottom line is that it worked fine, I have no complaints with the amount of heat it transferred to the upstairs, the system kept us warm for 5 years until we went to a modern hot water boiler and radiant floor heating. This includes one winter when the temperature never rose above 8 degrees below zero for three weeks from February into March. We were warm inside and the water lines never froze.

I was just wondering if anyone could suggest a new material to use for enclosing the stove.

As to code violations, we have no ventilation system in the house. What ductwork we do have is dedicated to conducting the heat to the three downstairs rooms in the house.

Thanks again everyone, Corky Scott
 
The ducted stove system is a ventilation system. Hope you can understand that while something 'might' work in some instances, we need to stick to safe and legal. We get some pretty wild ideas occasionally about things folks want to tack on their stoves.
 
BeGreen said:
The ducted stove system is a ventilation system. Hope you can understand that while something 'might' work in some instances, we need to stick to safe and legal. We get some pretty wild ideas occasionally about things folks want to tack on their stoves.

Yes, I can certainly understand that. Playing the devils advocate, isn't the system I originally put together very similar to a forced hot air heating system, but without the forced air? All it lacks is a fan in the plenum chamber and I'd have exactly that.

Moving the stove back upstairs is not really an option anymore. We tried that and after five years or so moved it downstairs and created the shroud. We liked having it downstairs much better. It kept the wood, dust and smoke and mess out of the living space and getting the wood in was/is a matter of chucking it through the scuttle opening and then stacking it. A further benefit of having the wood and the stove in the basement was that by January, that wood was so dry that it was like coal. VERY easy to get burning, only takes a couple of pieces of kindling.

The basement walls are insulated with foam board on the exterior, dug down into the dirt and coated with a stucco like fiberglass reiforced cement compound.

The house stays pretty warm in the winter, and cool in the summer. Doesn't take much to get it warmed up, even with the stove in the basement.

When we added two rooms for the kids out back and extended the heating duct out to them, the heat would not travel that extra ten feet on it's own, so I added a small duct fan which we manually turned on when the rooms needed heat and the stove was heating. The kids always dressed standing on the grates. Once we got the radiant floor heating, they always said that they missed the warm air coming up from their heating grates.

Corky Scott
 
Kudos for insulating the basement walls. It makes a very nice difference.
 
laynes69 said:
Before going through all of that, I would just purchase a furnace that is meant to be ducted into ductwork. Most are not too efficient, but effectively heat the home evenly. There are some furnaces that are EPA certified, but of course comes price. Ceiling fans, or box fans can make a world of difference on spreading the heat.


What the heck Layne...we agree!
 
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