Duravent Plus venting options for barn

[Squiner]

Looking to install a Drolet HT-3000 in my non-insulated barn. Without going through the new roof, I’m looking to go through the wall. Ideally I would go with the black colored option inside and out. That would allow the barn door to open without hitting the pipe and avoid the windows. Downside is I probably need to brace at the roof line.

The other option is in red. This would block the door some but wouldn’t need a roof brace. Are 45’s allowed above the tee support?

Also need to get around the 12” eaves.

Looking for any other options I’m missing. Unfortunately this is probably the best location for through the wall. Don’t want to penetrate the standing seam.

 

[Highbeam]

My stove has a minimum clearance above it to the ceiling. Might not work under the stairs.

Don't think you can get 45 degree bends in class A. 30 degree? I would go straight up.

 

[begreen]

There are no 45º elbows in US chimney pipe and most companies discourage or prohibit exterior elbows. DuraPlus does not come in black.

Is there any place where it could go straight up and through the roof? There are chimney pipe flashings for standing seam that work well as long as it is correctly installed. Under the stairs is not a great location. It brings up clearance issues. Many stoves require 84" floor-to-ceiling clearance.

The stove pipe inside should go up a few feet before the thimble.

 

[begreen]

PS: It's great that you are planning this out and asking questions in advance.

 

[Squiner]

I see what you guys are saying and this will probably not work in this location. The stove manufacturer provides options for reducing the distances but requires heat shields. Probably don’t want to get into this option as it may be challenging to prove this to the County inspector.

I researched I this but thought I would ask. Is there any way to get around a gutter that sticks out 4” from a 12” eave? That’s 16”+2” correct?

 

[Squiner]

PS: It's great that you are planning this out and asking questions in advance.

Thank you. Wish I would have planned it out during the barns design but I had so much other stuff on my plate at the time.

 

[begreen]

I see what you guys are saying and this will probably not work in this location. The stove manufacturer provides options for reducing the distances but requires heat shields. Probably don’t want to get into this option as it may be challenging to prove this to the County inspector.

I researched I this but thought I would ask. Is there any way to get around a gutter that sticks out 4” from a 12” eave? That’s 16”+2” correct?

Yes, if the gutter is plastic. If the gutter is metal, a clearance of 1/2" will work. 16.5" can be made to work, but not ideal. Straight-up is much better.

 

[Squiner]

Yes, if the gutter is plastic. If the gutter is metal, a clearance of 1/2" will work. 16.5" can be made to work, but not ideal. Straight-up is much better.

Really, if that’s the case then this might be a next best option, what support tee can I buy to get that far away

 

[begreen]

The support tees are all the same size. The snout that goes through the wall is a standard piece of chimney pipe attached to the tee. It sounds like a 24" length would be needed along with special support brackets and blocking. That horizontal run will definitely slow down the draft a lot, especially when the system is cold. An option is to notch the eave to clear the pipe. This would halve the horizontal run and be able to use conventional pipe supports. Or better yet, relocate the stove and go straight up.
PS: Use DuraTech chimney instead of the larger diameter DuraPlus. The cheaper pipe has a larger diameter which just complicates matters.

 

[ShaneMac]

How big is barn, is there an option to have the chimney go straight up inside and only go outside at the ceiling?

 

[Squiner]

So here’s what I’m considering now. See the yellow next the cupola? That’s a straight 22’ run in open space. Exiting the roof on the far side near the ridge beam. Only issue is the cupola, do I need to adhere to the 2-10 rule? The pipe would be about 5’ away from the cupola. If so that’s going to have to be a no go. I don’t want 8’ of pipe up there.

An option would be to move the chimney over 10’ from the cupola but I don’t want the stove directly below. The pipe would need to move about 3-5’ to the side of the stove in free space. Is that possible with single wall pipe? I would be using an adjustable roof support which can hang 20’ of pipe from the roof.

 

[Squiner]

The support tees are all the same size. The snout that goes through the wall is a standard piece of chimney pipe attached to the tee. It sounds like a 24" length would be needed along with special support brackets and blocking. That horizontal run will definitely slow down the draft a lot, especially when the system is cold. An option is to notch the eave to clear the pipe. This would halve the horizontal run and be able to use conventional pipe supports. Or better yet, relocate the stove and go straight up.
PS: Use DuraTech chimney instead of the larger diameter DuraPlus. The cheaper pipe has a larger diameter which just complicates matters.

View attachment 317854

At my eaves I have gutters so don’t think that would work. I believe I’m actually closer to 18” with the gutters…see new option I’m considering below. Thanks for the help.

 

[Squiner]

How big is barn, is there an option to have the chimney go straight up inside and only go outside at the ceiling?

Think that could work. Called the roofer and they can cut into and flash the roof for me relatively cheap.

 

[begreen]

Think that could work. Called the roofer and they can cut into and flash the roof for me relatively cheap.

Just make sure the proper flashing is used and that they install it properly. These are Excel flashing installs.

 

[Squiner]

So here’s what I’m considering now. See the yellow next the cupola? That’s a straight 22’ run in open space. Exiting the roof on the far side near the ridge beam. Only issue is the cupola, do I need to adhere to the 2-10 rule? The pipe would be about 5’ away from the cupola. If so that’s going to have to be a no go. I don’t want 8’ of pipe up there.

An option would be to move the chimney over 10’ from the cupola but I don’t want the stove directly below. The pipe would need to move about 3-5’ to the side of the stove in free space. Is that possible with single wall pipe? I would be using an adjustable roof support which can hang 20’ of pipe from the roof.
View attachment 317871

Can I run 20’ of single wall with an offset to the roof? I need it to offset about 5’ to avoid being so close to the cupola. Is there a wall bracket to support the pipe that maintains stand-off to combustibles?

 

[Squiner]

Just make sure the proper flashing is used and that they install it properly. These are Excel flashing installs.

View attachment 317875 View attachment 317876

Thanks, not sure if you saw post #11 but does the 10-2 rule apply to the cupola? Thank you!

 

[begreen]

Yes, I think so. My understanding is that the top of the chimney must be 2 feet higher than any portion of the building structure within 10 feet.

Also note that double-wall stove pipe is strongly recommended for runs over 8 ft. A 20 ft run is going to lose a lot of heat bringing a risk of creosote accumulation from the flue gases cooling down to the point of condensation inside the chimney.

 

[Squiner]

Yes, I think so. My understanding is that the top of the chimney must be 2 feet higher than any portion of the building structure within 10 feet.

Also note that double-wall stove pipe is strongly recommended for runs over 8 ft. A 20 ft run is going to lose a lot of heat bringing a risk of creosote accumulation from the flue gases cooling down to the point of condensation inside the chimney.

Agree, so to avoid that really tall pipe above the roof, I need to get the chimney 10’ away. I would prefer the yellow option followed by the red option. Would yellow option also require an adjustable roof support where the red would be completely supported by the Tee support? Any issue with using the Tee support attached to that indoor beam? The beam is 12” tall. Need to see if that’s tall enough to mount it.

The yellow would use two 30 degrees offsets if that’s compliant.

 

[begreen]

There is no tee support needed (or made?) in either case. This is all stovepipe in the interior, not chimney pipe. The stove pipe is attached with 3 screws at each joint to effectively make it a single unit. The bottom section may be telescoping depending on how the stove is easiest to clean.

That said, some sort of support could be fabricated if this is just for peace of mind. It would need to keep the double-wall stovepipe at least 6" from the beam or 18" if single-wall is used.

 

[Squiner]

There is no tee support needed (or made?) in either case. This is all stovepipe in the interior, not chimney pipe. The stove pipe is attached with 3 screws at each joint to effectively make it a single unit. The bottom section may be telescoping depending on how the stove is easiest to clean.

That said, some sort of support could be fabricated if this is just for peace of mind. It would need to keep the double-wall stovepipe at least 6" from the beam or 18" if single-wall is

There is no tee support needed (or made?) in either case. This is all stovepipe in the interior, not chimney pipe. The stove pipe is attached with 3 screws at each joint to effectively make it a single unit. The bottom section may be telescoping depending on how the stove is easiest to clean.

That said, some sort of support could be fabricated if this is just for peace of mind. It would need to keep the double-wall stovepipe at least 6" from the beam or 18" if single-wall is used.

Was thinking since single wall is not appropriate inside at 20’ I would just go with triple wall. Maybe I’ll look into double wall.

Though the triple wall could be used like in the attached image from the Duratech install manual.

The Tee support would support the pipe to allow the 30 degree offset. Just would use straight pipe and no Tee.

 

[begreen]

No. You are confusing chimney pipe with stove pipe. This is common because they use the same terminology. Double-wall chimney pipe is not the same as double-wall stove pipe. They are entirely different products. The chimney pipe is much more expensive than stove pipe, fatter, and heavier. Stove pipe also has different fittings. Elbows can be 45º in stovepipe unlike chimney pipe.

 

[begreen]

This is DuraTech 6" chimney pipe

Home :: Chimney Pipe / Venting Pipe :: Wood/All-Fuel Piping :: 6 inch :: DuraVent DuraTech 6 :: DuraVent 6'' x 48'' DuraTech Chimney Pipe - Stainless Steel - 9407 // 6DT-48SS

M&G DuraVent 6" x 48" DuraTech Chimney Pipe - Stainless Steel - 9407* Non CF (Carton Filler) pipe of this length needs to be purchased with at least two other pieces of similar brand pipe. Please call or e-mail us if you have any questions.Designed for ap

woodstovepro.com

This is DuraTech DVL double-wall stove pipe

Home :: Chimney Pipe / Venting Pipe :: Wood/All-Fuel Piping :: 6 inch :: DuraVent DVL 6 :: DuraVent 6'' x 48'' DVL Double-Wall Black Pipe - 8648 // 6DVL-48

M&G DuraVent 6" x 48" DVL Double-Wall Black Pipe - 8648Available in 6" and 8" diameters for installation with minimum clearance to combustibles (6" to walls, 8" from top of horizontal run to ceiling). Constructed with a stainless steel inner wall for long

woodstovepro.com

 

[Squiner]

This is DuraTech 6" chimney pipe

Home :: Chimney Pipe / Venting Pipe :: Wood/All-Fuel Piping :: 6 inch :: DuraVent DuraTech 6 :: DuraVent 6'' x 48'' DuraTech Chimney Pipe - Stainless Steel - 9407 // 6DT-48SS

M&G DuraVent 6" x 48" DuraTech Chimney Pipe - Stainless Steel - 9407* Non CF (Carton Filler) pipe of this length needs to be purchased with at least two other pieces of similar brand pipe. Please call or e-mail us if you have any questions.Designed for ap

woodstovepro.com

This is DuraTech DVL double-wall stove pipe

Home :: Chimney Pipe / Venting Pipe :: Wood/All-Fuel Piping :: 6 inch :: DuraVent DVL 6 :: DuraVent 6'' x 48'' DVL Double-Wall Black Pipe - 8648 // 6DVL-48

M&G DuraVent 6" x 48" DVL Double-Wall Black Pipe - 8648Available in 6" and 8" diameters for installation with minimum clearance to combustibles (6" to walls, 8" from top of horizontal run to ceiling). Constructed with a stainless steel inner wall for long

woodstovepro.com

Thanks for the info, looking at the DVL stove pipe now. I need to traverse about 60” horizontal distance with two 48” DVL sections at a 45 degree angle. I kind of doubt that’s allowed.

 

[begreen]

It doesn't sound as extreme as this setup.

 

[Squiner]

My stove has a minimum clearance above it to the ceiling. Might not work under the stairs.

Don't think you can get 45 degree bends in class A. 30 degree? I would go straight up.

Ended up using the 30 degree elbow and going through the wall. Stove is working very well, draft is great so far.

Thanks for the help running through the options!

Fun getting the last four 3’ sections above the eave…