E/W stoves

[Stir224]

So I’ve been burning east west fires lately mostly because that’s the size wood I have right now and also to practice different styles.

I’ve got it down pretty well in that IF I use sleepers underneath the logs I can achieve pretty hot and complete burns but if I don’t it gets very challenging and I’m guessing this all has to do with airflow which seems pretty obvious.

My question is some stoves exist that only load e/w, do they have to use sleepers for every fire? I see people mostly burn n/s in other stoves so is there something these stoves do or in the design of them that can overcome the airflow issue?

 

[Nealm66]

I’ve only had my blaze king princess for a little over a month and burned e/w once because of too long. Wood wasn’t perfectly dry and loaded on top of good bed of coals. Didn’t notice any difference. I end up with an outside chunk on one side or other on low burns, n/s loaded. The outside chunk will eventually burn if I let it. The e/w was basically same story. Heat output remains pretty constant even with the straggler chunks. Seems like I get more wood in loading n/s

 

[nortcan]

So I’ve been burning east west fires lately mostly because that’s the size wood I have right now and also to practice different styles.

I’ve got it down pretty well in that IF I use sleepers underneath the logs I can achieve pretty hot and complete burns but if I don’t it gets very challenging and I’m guessing this all has to do with airflow which seems pretty obvious.

My question is some stoves exist that only load e/w, do they have to use sleepers for every fire? I see people mostly burn n/s in other stoves so is there something these stoves do or in the design of them that can overcome the airflow issue?

Hi Stir224, with my Hearthstone stoves I load only e/w cause the stoves are made for it, but there is a hole in the lower front inside of the stove to feed air under the load, it helps to make a channel in the ash n/s to help the air flow under the wood load. What is the model of your stove? Hope you understand my poor Canadian/Québec English !

 

[jatoxico]

I have a pretty dedicated E/W burner. It does create a challenge especially at startup, less so once everything is hot. I loosely criss cross splits as needed. If reloading I dig a channel in the ash before laying in the new splits so air gets to the back of the box.

E/W box does tend to limit how full you can pack the stove since as the load shifts or breaks down the pile tends to fall forward on to the glass (and the back) instead of side to side.

 

[nortcan]

I have a pretty dedicated E/W burner. It does create a challenge especially at startup, less so once everything is hot. I loosely criss cross splits as needed. If reloading I dig a channel in the ash before laying in the new splits so air gets to the back of the box.

E/W box does tend to limit how full you can pack the stove since as the load shifts or breaks down the pile tends to fall forward on to the glass (and the back) instead of side to side.

You're right for the falling logs on the glass using E/W method. And that is exactly why I made removable andirons for my Heritage stove. Super efficient and they help to get a full to the top load if wanted without the falling issue. The andirons don't change the original structure of the stove and cannot bend to the glass...if wanted for some reason, I can remove one or both andiron or the entire *kit*.

 

[Stir224]

Hi Stir224, with my Hearthstone stoves I load only e/w cause the stoves are made for it, but there is a hole in the lower front inside of the stove to feed air under the load, it helps to make a channel in the ash n/s to help the air flow under the wood load. What is the model of your stove? Hope you understand my poor Canadian/Québec English !

I currently have a Century CW2900 insert but am likely going to be picking up a Progress hybrid for next year. Just wanted to see if people with e/w stoves struggle with reloads like I do sometimes. I think my current stove (cw2900) only had fresh air from the top so it’s a bit trickier

 

[JimBear]

I currently have a Century CW2900 insert but am likely going to be picking up a Progress hybrid for next year. Just wanted to see if people with e/w stoves struggle with reloads like I do sometimes. I think my current stove (cw2900) only had fresh air from the top so it’s a bit trickier

I have a Century 3000 stove & don’t seem to have a problem with it. I burn both N/S & E/W depending on the split length & outdoor temps.

Yes the back will burn slower than the front but the only time I have had a problem with incomplete burns was if I turned the air down too early or the wood wasn’t dry.

How deep do you let your ash get before cleaning?
What type of wood are you burning & what is the moisture content ?

 

[Stir224]

I have a Century 3000 stove & don’t seem to have a problem with it. I burn both N/S & E/W depending on the split length & outdoor temps.

Yes the back will burn slower than the front but the only time I have had a problem with incomplete burns was if I turned the air down too early or the wood wasn’t dry.

How deep do you let your ash get before cleaning?
What type of wood are you burning & what is the moisture content ?

I try to stay on top of the ash as best I can. Emptying it once every few days. Wood is hard and soft maple 18-21%. With the sleepers under the load it burns like a dream. Lights up fast with strong secondaries and gets hot. Haven’t figured out how to get it to burn like that without them yet though

 

[nortcan]

You will be happy with the PH cause you load the stove from the side door and the stove has andirons in front of the glass to protect it from falling logs, so you can load the PH to the top and all is set for a long burn.... The PH has the bottom hole feeding primary air under the load like the Hearthstone stoves have. I think that the PH is one of the best wood stove on the market today. For the price difference with a Heritage, it' just like when one want a Ford King Ranch he or her will accept to pay a few $ more than buyinf a Ranger.

 

[begreen]

So I’ve been burning east west fires lately mostly because that’s the size wood I have right now and also to practice different styles.

I’ve got it down pretty well in that IF I use sleepers underneath the logs I can achieve pretty hot and complete burns but if I don’t it gets very challenging and I’m guessing this all has to do with airflow which seems pretty obvious.

My question is some stoves exist that only load e/w, do they have to use sleepers for every fire? I see people mostly burn n/s in other stoves so is there something these stoves do or in the design of them that can overcome the airflow issue?

I always used sleepers in the Castine for cold starts. Hot restarts usually didn't need them unless the coals had burned down pretty far.

 

[kborndale]

Have not heard that term before, what exactly is a sleeper?

 

[begreen]

Short 1" splits or rounds that sit under the E/W load to allow air to get under the wood.

 

[xman23]

My Jotul Oslo is a east / west stove. I always side load. The air is from 3 holes center and at floor level. Yes cold starts with a clean stove are difficult. I use 2 X wood sleepers. I been thinking using of 1 inch diameter tree branches for this. Maybe just some square steel stock.

 

[TradEddie]

I usually burn E/W because that's the size logs I've got. With properly seasoned wood, I don't have any problems, but even just a hair above 20% mc and I begin to have difficulty with those cooler ember restarts . In those situations, I will use sleepers.
TE

 

[WoodBurnerInWI]

I burn both ways in my stove based on log size. I prefer to load N/S when I can because I can get more wood in the firebox. Anything over 18" has to go E/W to fit. Anything over 24" goes in diagonally to make it fit!

 

[Caw]

I run an Osburn 1600 and load exclusively E/W. Airwash air from right above the glass then a port in the bottom about 3-4 inches in from the glass...I think I've seen people refer to it as a dog house? I have a very strong 24' chimney.

For cold starts I use sleepers. Nothing big, either 2 pieces of fatwood or finger thickness kindling. Just enough to get some air under there. I find as long as I don't block the air with a log I'm golden. Top down and I just use my blowtorch instead of super cedars now. Faster and more fun!

On restarts I never have issues if my timing is good. Rake forward and I put a couple smaller splits on the bottom/back them my big boy splits and I tetris in what I can on top. Takes right off if the wood is quality. I find having a smaller split or two in the back/bottom promotes more complete combustion, especially overnight. When the fire is cooling down it's not trying to burn a giant split.

If its gotten too cold I'll often chuck some kindling and a small split on to try and bring it back to life instead of trying sleepers. If I'm using less than ideal wood I make sure to mix it. I'll put a couple splits of the good stuff near the coals then fill the box with the mediocre wood. Air open a little longer than usual and it goes. I almost never reload with all mediocre wood....Ive done it a few times accidentally and it's always a smokey disaster. If you have no choice and only have mediocre wood then make sure to split smaller and reload earlier to avoid issues.

 

[Stir224]

I run an Osburn 1600 and load exclusively E/W. Airwash air from right above the glass then a port in the bottom about 3-4 inches in from the glass...I think I've seen people refer to it as a dog house? I have a very strong 24' chimney.

For cold starts I use sleepers. Nothing big, either 2 pieces of fatwood or finger thickness kindling. Just enough to get some air under there. I find as long as I don't block the air with a log I'm golden. Top down and I just use my blowtorch instead of super cedars now. Faster and more fun!

On restarts I never have issues if my timing is good. Rake forward and I put a couple smaller splits on the bottom/back them my big boy splits and I tetris in what I can on top. Takes right off if the wood is quality. I find having a smaller split or two in the back/bottom promotes more complete combustion, especially overnight. When the fire is cooling down it's not trying to burn a giant split.

If its gotten too cold I'll often chuck some kindling and a small split on to try and bring it back to life instead of trying sleepers. If I'm using less than ideal wood I make sure to mix it. I'll put a couple splits of the good stuff near the coals then fill the box with the mediocre wood. Air open a little longer than usual and it goes. I almost never reload with all mediocre wood....Ive done it a few times accidentally and it's always a smokey disaster. If you have no choice and only have mediocre wood then make sure to split smaller and reload earlier to avoid issues.

What does a dog house look like?

 

[Caw]

Im not sure the terminology is correct but im describing my primary air inlet. You can see it in the center of the stove extending a few inches from the door opening:

Also for the memes:

 

[Stir224]

Hm my stove has the same thing about half as long but no holes on it that I can locate.

 

[nortcan]

Im not sure the terminology is correct but im describing my primary air inlet. You can see it in the center of the stove extending a few inches from the door opening:

View attachment 272225

Also for the memes:

View attachment 272226

Very nice dog and condo.

 

[logfarmer]

Trying opening up the air a little more to achieve the same “type” of burn like when you use the sleepers.

 

[Gearhead660]

Hm my stove has the same thing about half as long but no holes on it that I can locate.

I have the same insert as you Stir224. I dont use sleepers when loading E/W. No issues getting a complete burn. Have a 25' exterior brick chimney with liner, very good draft. What is your chimney setup?
Dont believe our inserts have a doghouse. Believe that bump out is the primary air supply going up to the top of the door. No holes.

 

[Caw]

Good chimneys make all the difference. I only use sleepers on cold starts to expedite the process. They arent necessary but I'm a dad with little kids and a dog so anything that saves time is welcome.

 

[Stir224]

I have the same insert as you Stir224. I dont use sleepers when loading E/W. No issues getting a complete burn. Have a 25' exterior brick chimney with liner, very good draft. What is your chimney setup?
Dont believe our inserts have a doghouse. Believe that bump out is the primary air supply going up to the top of the door. No holes.

20' exterior chimney. Some days draft is like a hurricane others its very meh. I think some of my wood could be more dry as well.

I've been raking the coals forward loading a few pieces into the back of the stove behind the coals, letting them char for a minute with the door cracked then loading wood in the front. Seems to be working pretty well. Do you just throw all your wood in at once and let it rip?

Also unrelated question, does your top heat shield sag in the middle when the stove gets hot? Seems pretty flimsy to me

 

[Gearhead660]

20' exterior chimney. Some days draft is like a hurricane others its very meh. I think some of my wood could be more dry as well.

I've been raking the coals forward loading a few pieces into the back of the stove behind the coals, letting them char for a minute with the door cracked then loading wood in the front. Seems to be working pretty well. Do you just throw all your wood in at once and let it rip?

Also unrelated question, does your top heat shield sag in the middle when the stove gets hot? Seems pretty flimsy to me

Mine has a slight sag, not very noticeable.
I rake the coals to the front, and then load it up. Leave door open a crack until I have flames then close. Damper full open for 10 minutes or so, then close to half for a couple minutes before closing almost fully closed.