Echo Chainsaw Help

[Claybuster]

I had a nice 15+ year run with a CS3000. I can't get the saw started now. I was running the saw helping a friend with a downed tree. The tree that fell was standing dead for awhile so it was nice and dry. My saw started fine on the second of third pull and was running and working for about a good 30 minutes when suddenly it started bogging down, smoke coming out of the clutch cover side, then stalled out. I have not been able to start the saw since that day. Being that it was running okay, confident it is not a fuel issue, spark plug issue, or air issue, however I did replace the plug, and checked the air filter, and gave the carb a good cleaning. I did not replace the fuel filter being it was running for about 30 minutes before it died so I doubt that filter was the issue. I am 99.9% confident this is a motor related issue.

My question is this: Where do you think I should be looking for the most likely culprit as to the cause of the engine failure? I have purchased another saw but would like to see if I can repair this and keep as a backup. I doubt that I will have this saw serviced because I don't feel it would be worth the cost of repair for a 15 year old saw, but would like a backup if I could break down the motor and repair myself.

Thanks for any advice and opinion,

Charlie

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I had a nice 15+ year run with a CS3000. I can't get the saw started now. I was running the saw helping a friend with a downed tree. The tree that fell was standing dead for awhile so it was nice and dry. My saw started fine on the second of third pull and was running and working for about a good 30 minutes when suddenly it started bogging down, smoke coming out of the clutch cover side, then stalled out. I have not been able to start the saw since that day. Being that it was running okay, confident it is not a fuel issue, spark plug issue, or air issue, however I did replace the plug, and checked the air filter, and gave the carb a good cleaning. I did not replace the fuel filter being it was running for about 30 minutes before it died so I doubt that filter was the issue. I am 99.9% confident this is a motor related issue.

My question is this: Where do you think I should be looking for the most likely culprit as to the cause of the engine failure? I have purchased another saw but would like to see if I can repair this and keep as a backup. I doubt that I will have this saw serviced because I don't feel it would be worth the cost of repair for a 15 year old saw, but would like a backup if I could break down the motor and repair myself.

Thanks for any advice and opinion,

Charlie

I'd make sure I had good compression, and then replace all of the fuel line, including the filter. Cheap and easy way to continue to work through the possible causes and eliminate any of the simple ones. I've personally found every problem I've encountered on small engines to be fuel system issues and think you shouldn't be so quick to decide that isn't your issue.

When you say you cleaned the carb, do you mean that you sprayed some carb cleaner into the intake, or that you removed it, and took it apart, and gave it a thorough going over and checked the diaphragm?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I assume it's still turning over easy?


I'd check compression too.

 

[Claybuster]

...do you mean that you sprayed some carb cleaner into the intake...

Yes, only a spray down.I figured since it was running fine for about 30 minutes the carb was okay. I will take your advice and replace the fuel lines and filter to rule out fuel. Thanks for the reply!

I assume it's still turning over easy? I'd check compression too.

Yes, turning over easy. Thanks, I will check compression. I don't have a test gauge but my neighbor might. I guess that is step one. I'm new at this but want to learn.

I'm thinking I may need this if the compression is bad? Or maybe just the ring?

(broken link removed to https://www.hlsproparts.com/Echo-CS-3000-piston-assembly-p/h31300.htm)

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Check to see if the auto parts place will let you borrow one.

I was wondering the source of the magic smoke.

 

[Claybuster]

Check to see if the auto parts place will let you borrow one.

I was wondering the source of the magic smoke.

We have a local NAPA, they should let me sign one out...good idea.

I watched a few videos on replacing the piston if needed. Doesn't seem too difficult. If it comes to that I will tinker around with it in hopes to get running again. Fellow in the video said sometimes getting the retaining rings back on the piston pin can be sometimes can be a pain. I do want to get it running again as a backup saw. I'm not serious with the saw, just around the property.

I have soon work to do very soon so I picked up another saw. I had a few Ash trees uproot on me in last weeks nor'easter. The tree in contact with the shed not too much of a problem. The liability tree is the one that got hung up in the crotch of a tree right behind the shed. That is the much bigger problem involving climbing and roping off and can't get any heavy equipment back there. Pictures can be deceiving, these are easy 90 footers.

 

[Claybuster]

I was wondering the source of the magic smoke.

???

 

[EatenByLimestone]

You said smoke came out of the side of your saw. What caused it? Did it push out under pressure, or did it whisp out?

 

[Claybuster]

It was working at the time so I'm going to say pressure. From the time it started smoking to no longer being able to run was about 5-10 seconds.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I'd look for the spot where the magic smoke escaped.

 

[blades]

maybe gasket at base of cylinder/crankcase junction if it has one. just a thought.

 

[greg13]

Start by pulling the muffler and get a look at the inside of the cylinder, that will give you a better idea of what is going on.

 

[rox3406]

Crank seal behind clutch. Check it

 

[Claybuster]

Thanks for the replies. I'm not getting a spark. I think the ignition coil is toast, so that will be my first part to replace. They are pricey. Best price I've seen is about $50. Once I get the electrical sparking, if that doesn't work I will move on to fuel and air. Hopefully I will get the ignition coil ordered within a few weeks. Took both side covers off today and blew it clean with my air compressor. I'm in no hurry so this is a work in progress. I'll update when I get a spark. I'm learning. I'm the last of the mechanics.

Charlie

 

[salecker]

I would look at the piston through the exahust port before buying any parts.
You need a special compression tester for 2 cycle,takes a different valve in the end then a regular 4 cycle tester.
If you find that the piston is scored when you look through the exhaust port,then you will have to determine the cause of the scoring.The only way to test weather the saw is ok before you install a new piston is to pressure and vacuum test the saw before you remove the bad piston.
If you don't do the pressure/vac test you chance destroying the new piston.
And if the piston is scored you will have to clean the aluminum transfer off the cylinder before you can reuse it.
The first thing i do when i get a saw that i have no history on is pull the muffler to see the health of the engine.

 

[Giles]

I would look at the piston through the exahust port before buying any parts.
You need a special compression tester for 2 cycle,takes a different valve in the end then a regular 4 cycle tester.
If you find that the piston is scored when you look through the exhaust port,then you will have to determine the cause of the scoring.The only way to test weather the saw is ok before you install a new piston is to pressure and vacuum test the saw before you remove the bad piston.
If you don't do the pressure/vac test you chance destroying the new piston.
And if the piston is scored you will have to clean the aluminum transfer off the cylinder before you can reuse it.
The first thing i do when i get a saw that i have no history on is pull the muffler to see the health of the engine.

"You need a special compression tester for 2 cycle,takes a different valve in the end then a regular 4 cycle tester."
I dind't know that--been using mine for over thirty years.

 

[Claybuster]

You need a special compression tester for 2 cycle,takes a different valve in the end then a regular 4 cycle tester.

The first thing i do when i get a saw that i have no history on is pull the muffler to see the health of the engine.

Pulled the muffler yesterday. A lot of carbon buildup. When I pulled the started rope the side of the piston looks okay and did not see any scoring.

When I push the primer bulb and am filling the bulb with fuel. I think my lines are okay but I think for starters I will replace the filter and fuel line going to the carb. Almost got an attempt to start from the engine yesterday but it was a no go. I tried with both the air filter and muffler off...nothing.

 

[salecker]

"You need a special compression tester for 2 cycle,takes a different valve in the end then a regular 4 cycle tester."
I dind't know that--been using mine for over thirty years.

If you look at the schrader valve in the end of the hose it will have a certain colored plastic ring.I don't know what color is for the 2 cycles but it takes a certain one to get accurate reading for 2 cycle.The small combustion chamber is the issue.Even a long weak hose will give bad readings.

 

[Claybuster]

I'm going to make a little investment. Looks like a lot for 14.99. I've thrown Chinese carbs in other machines and they worked fine. If the old carb looks okay I will clean it up and keep as a backup. Hopefully this will get 'er running again.

(broken link removed to https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Carb-For-Echo-CS-303T-CS-341-CS-345-CS-346-CS-3000-CS-3400-CS-3450/282809985228?hash=item41d8c9e8cc:g:Rr0AAOSw37BaXGKL)