Eko 25 update and ??s

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t4driller

Member
Jul 29, 2013
51
windber pa
I just wanted to give an update on my boiler after running it for the past 5 years.( 5-6 chord a year) And say thank you again to this site for helping me along. [emoji4] [emoji4]

I've been running it wo storage since day 1 without any problems really. First year was a learning curve but after thst it's been great. I've made a couple changes in piping and added a cast iron register in the boiler loop to help from standby time for prolonged periods. It's piped inline with my oil boiler with a primary secondary loop.

Every year I clean and inspect the boilers. I've been using a nozzle protector made out of stainless steel since day 1. There's sone wear on the nozzle itself, but will be able to get a couple more years out of it. The U shaped refractory pieces in the bottom both cracked at the end of last year, but still are useable. The heat exchanger tubes only get sone fine ash in them that are easy to sweep out. No creosote buildup at all. Same with chimney, I only get maybe a half gallon of dust out of the entire chimney. So it's been running about as efficiently as possible for my setup I believe.

At the end of last year my controller (rk2001ua) started throwing a fit. The temp setting would flicker around when starting or stopping the fan motor. Also seems to be about 15 to 20 degrees off of actually boiler temp. Is there a fix for this? Or just get a new controller? I've read about other controllers that are available for this unit but they are kinda expensive.

Also what are the 2 3/4" pipes sticking out of either side of boiler? They said to just cap them so thst they can vent and not build pressure. I wanted to add a way to heat up my domestic hot water with the boiler and didn't know if that is what those pipes are for.

That about sums it up for now. Heres some pics of pipes I'm referring to and a couple others. Thsnks again mike [emoji4] 789c2ecf024579947013cb1176295b10.jpg842f124f2f08a7512a8f7e1421d3e451.jpg48b7b699c3d9677078ce455b3ad46988.jpg0302a0d6f412db8aa6290fb857d1d8b9.jpg53e8b3dc38974bdf48a4c8c516cc0405.jpg

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Those 3/4 inch pipes are a cooling coil that would be used for a overheat situation. They offer a thermostatically controlled solenoid which opens and allows domestic cold water to flow through and cool the boiler assuming it is plumbed in of course.
 
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Those 3/4 inch pipes are a cooling coil that would be used for a overheat situation. They offer a thermostatically controlled solenoid which opens and allows domestic cold water to flow through and cool the boiler assuming it is plumbed in of course.
Thank you for the info.. I guess I will proceed with what i originally had planned. Was going to add a tank with coil in my loop.

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My controller started shutting off on me, and it was the plastic blocks on the back of the controller that clamp the external wires to the controller. I swapped the blocks from pins I was not using, and the problem stopped.

Are the holes on your plate larger than the nozzle opening?
 
My controller started shutting off on me, and it was the plastic blocks on the back of the controller that clamp the external wires to the controller. I swapped the blocks from pins I was not using, and the problem stopped.

Are the holes on your plate larger than the nozzle opening?
Thanks, I'll check those pins out.

I drill 1 inch holes in the center of that plate. They are a little smaller then the nozzle slot. The plate in the picture is just wore out and it warped and moved around on me. I should of just made another plate last year.

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