Eko 40 controller logic

[powerspec]

Does anyone out there have a clear explanation of the operating logic for the RK-2001 controller service parameters? I am having a dickens of the time trying to maintain strong gasification on a new boiler install with bone dry wood. The user setting parameter descriptions in the manual leave me guessing what they might mean. What for example is meant by 'fan power or max fan power when Nr1' vs 'automatic fan speed control'? What is 'fan work time'? What is 'fan pause time'? These parameters are begging to be explained. There are 19 of them. I can't be the first user to ask this. Can anyone help?

 

[Gooserider]

Have you checked the search? I think I've seen an explanation, but forget just where - maybe the "fine tuning the EKO" sticky....

Gooserider

 

[powerspec]

Yup looked everywhere and still need help. I have built 4 fires in this boiler and every one is different. Number two was the best when the storage temp went up steady and the boiler actually idled. The wood is the same. One secondary air screw could not be closed off because the factory installed the metal fan cover plate too far to the left side of the boiler and the plate baffle touched the side of the boiler 30 mm before closing off the secondary air tube. So much for factory settings, that's what I say. Fixed that and started up with secondaries at 3.5 turns open.
The wood burns but weakly. When I leave the bottom door and the bypass damper both open the stove heats up just as fast (often faster) than when I close it in after 20 minutes and start the fan controller. Tonight I had a burn going for three hours before I saw steady boiler temps above 170F. Even then the gasification was quiet, real quiet with a small blue flame through the nozzle. I tried opening and closing the secondaries 2 turns open to seven turns open with no benefit. Same story with the fan rotary valve, started at 25%, then to 50% then to 10% no big difference in the gasification. Trying to get it right I start the fire going without the fan, leave the bottom door open until the fire is red all kindling and small splits coaling up nicely then add a few small logs and hope for gasification.
This boiler will work if I can get my head around how to run it right. I have the following parameters set:fan power 100, automatic fan speed control at 40, fan work time at 5, fan pause time (whatever that is) at 6, pump launch at 165, pump hysteresis at 4, L150, H195, h4, A210, Fd--, Fb20, hey does this look right to you?
The loading valve is Danfoss 140F on the return side with a throttle closed off enough so the return water is always up to temp. When the pump starts (165F) the boiler temp does NOT drop fast. I've even tried opening the outside door in the boiler room thinking maybe the building is too negative.
Comments are welcome it's a great web site. Thanks,

 

[Gooserider]

I did a search on RK-2001 and found a lot of links including http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/PDF/RK-2001UA-ENG1.pdf which is supposed to be the manual for the controller... Do you have this document? I think I understand the parameters, though I'll admit it's rather confusing... If this doesn't help, tell me which ones are bothering you, and I'll try to explain them as best I understand it (remember I don't own one, so all I know is what it says in the docs...)

Gooserider

 

[Fred61]

Have you checked for bridging? Many times, quick burning (softwood or fine splits) kindling will quickly burn away leaving a big gap between the logs and the nozzle, especially at high fan speed settings.

 

[powerspec]

Thank you for the link to that manual that's what I need. I notice the manual says the 115VAC/60 units are supposed to be fused two amps but mine is fused 4 amps. So much again for factory settings, I'm guessing 4 amps is correct and 2 amps goes with the 220VAC/50 hz European units. I have had bridging where the fire need to be 'knocked down' and to avoid it I like to stack the wood nice and tight and parallel like sardines in a can once everything is burning nicely. But every fire is different and I'm going to stick with it until this thing really hums. Is there a fool proof way to reload when the fire is low without risk of a big backfire? I have had some big blow outs when trying to inspect the fire with gasification problems. I'm used to handling high pressure gas and whitewater kayaking so my nerves are pretty good but they need to be when opening the boiler just after shutdown with a good fire. Gloves and safety glasses seem to be in order. Does every user have this problem?

 

[Gooserider]

Thank you for the link to that manual that's what I need. I notice the manual says the 115VAC/60 units are supposed to be fused two amps but mine is fused 4 amps. So much again for factory settings, I'm guessing 4 amps is correct and 2 amps goes with the 220VAC/50 hz European units. I have had bridging where the fire need to be 'knocked down' and to avoid it I like to stack the wood nice and tight and parallel like sardines in a can once everything is burning nicely. But every fire is different and I'm going to stick with it until this thing really hums. Is there a fool proof way to reload when the fire is low without risk of a big backfire? I have had some big blow outs when trying to inspect the fire with gasification problems. I'm used to handling high pressure gas and whitewater kayaking so my nerves are pretty good but they need to be when opening the boiler just after shutdown with a good fire. Gloves and safety glasses seem to be in order. Does every user have this problem?

The big secret to safely opening the top door is to open the bypass damper FIRST, and then wait a couple minutes, with the blowers going... The Woodgun boilers even have a little light where you are supposed to start a timer and wait until the light goes on before opening the door... Remember, the idea of a gasifier is to to fill that upper chamber with noxious, flammable gases, with little or no oxygen, until it is added on the way to the lower chamber... When you open the door on that box of fumes, you mix in a bunch of fresh air, and make a very explosive mix, coupled with the fire in the box to spark it off... (Not to mention that a good bunch of that gas is Carbon Monoxide, which you don't want to be breathing even if it doesn't ignite...)

You need to open the bypass damper FIRST with the blower going so that the gases get blown up the chimney and the upper chamber is filled with fresh air, then open the door SLOWLY...

The other thing is you really shouldn't be opening that door on a full load to begin with, at least not if you can avoid it...

Don't "over pack" the firebox either... It is good to put the wood in so that it's parallel, but you don't want it so tight that it locks itself into place... Leave some slack so that the wood can settle easily as it burns...

Gooserider

 

[trehugr]

They (Orlan) changed the fuse from 2 amp to 4 amp so your ok there. I have the best results with the factory settings for the controller. There is an option there to revert back to the factory settings. I think people make it harder on themselves than is really necessary. Remember the basics of gasification. You need dry wood with the proper moisture content. You need a good bed of coals, he proper draft for the chimney. Cold boilers do not gas well. Once you start warming up the boiler things should really start to hum. By the way, I have never touched the primary and secondary air settings on my EKO... never had to... my best advice, good luck

 

[deerefanatic]

The first couple fires aren't ever real good anyway..... It has something to do with the boiler being new.......

 

[Medman]

on my EKO 25 I never had good luck with the 100% fan power setting. I now run with 60% and have good strong gasification with a lot less bridging. I think the fan on too strong actually burns the wood too quickly in the upper chamber, leading to bridging and less unburnt gas to combust in the nozzle/lower chamber.

 

[powerspec]

Medman what kind of wood are you burning? I'm running on white birch and black ash since 20 years but hope to operate this new Eko 40 on popar and conifer if it proves to be half as efficient as hoped for. Does anyone out there have different air settings for softwood vs hardwood? Deerfanatic I notice that the first three fires rained out creosote like Niagara but fire #4 was bone dry in the chimney. My chimnet was new this summer with a stainless steel liner inside a brick structure. between the liner and the brick is a wet cement/vermiculite mixuer that I guess needed to dry out more when I built the first three fires. I never saw creosote here in the old chimney but the new one seemed to make lots at first.

 

[twofer]

I wouldn't try to dial your boiler in just yet since it is new. My first half dozen fires in my new EKO last year were all highly variable.

 

[stee6043]

I wouldn't try to dial your boiler in just yet since it is new. My first half dozen fires in my new EKO last year were all highly variable.

+1. I'd suggest to anyone that they burn for two or three weeks before starting to tune up the EKO...

 

[Medman]

I am burning white birch and some softer maple (not sure on species) for this shoulder season. There aren't many btus in the birch but I have a lot of it and it is dry - takes about two years of covered storage to get the birch to 20% moisture content. Once the cold weather really sets in I will switch to sugar maple and red oak - I like to keep the oak for the coldest days, since it gives the most btus of any wood I can access. The longer burn times of the hardwoods are necessary now with no storage. Once I get my 500 gal. tank hooked up (soon!) things may be different.
I would burn poplar, hemlock, pine etc. if available for free or if necessary. Any wood will work, as long as it is seasoned. The difference is the amount of heat in a load of hardwood vs. a load of softwood. Burning softwoods just means loading more often. Other than that, no problems.