EKO 40 installation questions

[Damammel]

Hi All,

I am in need of some advice on how you have installed you stove pipe to you 40. Mine does not seem to be the right size. I did notice that this was brought up before with no comments. I am hoping that someone will be able to give em an idea. This site has be great for other info. I am installing an EKO 40 with 500 gallons storage in an out building. The storage tank will be insulated to avoid the heat loss.

My 2nd question is when connecting to my current oil boiler, that will only be needed if the temps go low on the wood boiler, where should the connections be made. I am thinking on the input side of the boiler after the pumps but I am not sure if both connections would be there. I currently have an oil boiler with two zones. I am thinking of pulling water for the house directly out of the storage tank and having the returning water go to the boiler. This way in the summer I will be pulling directly out of the tank

My last question for now is what size expansion tank is being used for this type of system and where are they being installed? (near the tank or in the house)

I will post pics as I get them. Below is a rough sketch of my idea for the plumbing

Thanks,
Derek

 

[Gary S]

I have not fired my 40 up yet so I'm new at this but I will when I can. On your stove pipe question, Dave from Cozy Heat told me to use 6" pipe and just put the tee over the flue outlet. The outside fit nice and tight over the collar.

I don't know the answers to your other questions.

 

[Medman]

I installed my EKO 25 in my garage, which just happened to have a 7" chimney already installed. I used all double wall black stove pipe from the EKO to the ceiling thimble. I started with an 8" to 7" reducer on the back of the EKO into a 7" Tee, then up with 7" pieces to the ceiling. I used the Tee to facilitate cleaning. From the ceiling up the chimney is 7" stainless Supervent.
The only trouble I had was finding the 8" to 7" reducer in double wall pipe.

Dave at Cozy Heat showed me the stainless Tee over the flue collar as well, and I like the simplicity of running straight stainless Selkirk vent pipe for the whole chimney run. This solution works well in the US, but Canadian code requires 2" wall thickness stainless vent pipe, not 1" like Dave is using, so this was not an option for me. The kicker is that the double wall black pipe pieces are more expensive than the stainless in most cases.

 

[Damammel]

Thanks guys for the quick replies. I had one 8" stove pipe adapter that would not fit over the flue from super vent. If the tee fits, the a straight piece should also fit? I want to leave some room in the back for cleaning.

 

[Medman]

I can't remember who asked for pics of my chimney setup on the EKO, but here they are.

 

[Nofossil]

I can't quite read your plumbing schematic. Do you need to keep your oil boiler hot for DHW or any other reason? If not, the 'simplest pressurized storage' sticky might help.

There are a few threads about expansion tanks and calculations for them. If I remember right, you'll need something like 40 or 50 gallons in your situation.

 

[Dave T]

As I have learned here it is ok to oversize your expansion tank (besides cost)..There are a few threads on using a propane tank for expansion with some extra work, I would like to hear if that is working out for people..Dave

 

[sdrobertson]

As I have learned here it is ok to oversize your expansion tank (besides cost)..There are a few threads on using a propane tank for expansion with some extra work, I would like to hear if that is working out for people..Dave

I'm using a steel tank that came off a field sprayer - 335 gallons if I remember correctly. Look for smaller propane tanks like the 125 gallon or 250 gallon size as they would make excellent expansion tanks.

 

[Dave T]

S ROB. do you have to maintain the tanks pressure by using compressed air (due to no bladder in the tank )from time to time because the boiler water fills up the tank slowly? I see numbers on the side of your tank is this the reason for the numbers can you give some specifics Thanks..Dave

 

[sdrobertson]

I was able to use the gauge that was installed on the tank as it showed the water level even when the tank was stood on end. When filled with cold water I followed the condensation level and wrote the numbers to show water level at each number showing on the gauge. I did this so that I didn't have to install a sight glass to see where water level is. I will have to add more air over time as the tank doesn't have a bladder in it and the water will absorb some over time, but I'm planning on using nitrogen to fill the tank as needed.

 

[Damammel]

Medman,

Thanks for the pics. Is that a standard 8"stove pipe fitting coming off the boiler? Hope the piping is going well.

Nofossil,

Yes I need to keep the oil boiler hot for DHW. I figure if the price of oil goes back up I can burn wood and pull the heat from the tank for a few days at a time. I have just finished insulating the tank which should allow it to hold temp for a while. I am going to place an aquastat at the bottom of the tank to allow it to be heated after the boiler is up to temp. A check valve installed from the tank to the wood boiler and from the oil boiler to the wood boiler will ensure the water is not pumped in the wrond direction. All I need to do is find the right controller and an expansion tank or two. One decent sized one should cover it. I will also have the pressure release valves installed in the boiler and the tank. I don't know that I should be worried about the tank freezing since it should have some bit of heat all the time and I will insulate it also.

Thanks,
Derek

 

[Medman]

Yes, standard 8" to 7" doublewall reducer. Inside crimped flange of reducer fits inside EKO 25 flue collar, outside flange of reducer has about a 1/8" gap between flue collar and outer flange. I drilled through outer flange of reducer and through steel flue collar and fastened with sheet metal screws. All of the black stove pipe I used is Selkirk Doublewall stainless, 7". See (broken link removed) for info. Its pricey - that reducer alone was $85, Tee was $90, etc - but it has a 6" clearance to combustables and I will only use double wall for the safety factor.

Piping is going well, but I am having a hard time finding the fittings, etc. that I need. Our local pipe supply is out of 1 1/4' Tees (because I bought them all) and won't get any more for at least a week. So I'm at a standstill there. I still have all the in-house piping to do, but I can't get to that until I install the water-to air HX and move my DHW tank so I can mount the sidearm HX. Hopefully by the weekend.

As a side note, in my pictures above you can see the flange for my main circulator just below and right of the expansion tank. Do you think this is OK or should I have put it lower, near the back of the boiler. I'm wondering now about the possibility that the pump coul run dry if there is a leak. Opinions?

 

[sdrobertson]

As a side note, in my pictures above you can see the flange for my main circulator just below and right of the expansion tank. Do you think this is OK or should I have put it lower, near the back of the boiler. I'm wondering now about the possibility that the pump coul run dry if there is a leak. Opinions?

I would move it. The lower the circulator is-the less chance to run dry and the less chance for air bubbles to want to stay in the pump itself.

 

[Medman]

I moved the circulator last night. I located it at the bottom of the boiler, on the return, right at the tee into the boiler. Since it is now low and mounted vertically, there should be no worries about air. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Dave T]

I used an internal 90* pipe, really I wanted to bring this thread back up because I see some people asking about this..Dave