Empire RH eco switch problem

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meaty

New Member
Nov 3, 2013
4
MA
I have an Empire rh. It's rear vented. Runs on natural gas. Was installed in 09 and ran great until last year when eco started cutting out. So I jumped the switch and ordered a new switch. When I installed same problem so I jumped it for all last year. This year I replaced again and it cut out again so right now it's jumped.

What's the issue? The switch is good but for some reason it's getting activated. The room where the space heater is in has 2 CO detectors that have never bleeped so there is no CO.

It's Installed in the 2 nd floor of a 100 year old building. The flue is shared with a Nat gas furnace that's in the basement.

New tenants keep the house real warm could that do it?

Also I noticed that when the "repair man" switched out the first ECO switch, he went down to the basement and cleaned out the bottom of the flue. There was some dirt and debris in there. But he left the plate off the bottom. I remember he said that leaving the plate off would give a batter draft. Now that I think about it I'm not sure if that's true. I'm thinking of a flue like a big vacuum pipe, and If you leave one big opening at the bottom I think there would be less suction at the places where you need it most, like the exhaust to the heater. What do you think?

Also, Can I keep the ECO jumped?
 
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I'm not too familiar w/that model, do you mean the vent spill switch?

they should never be bypassed except for testing, and any plate the guy removed should be re-installed.
 
thanks for the reply. yes its the spill switch. what does the switch do? why is it getting too hot? is the updraft reduced because the plate was removed in the basement?
 
The spill switch opens on temperature rise if the flue comes apart or is restricted. It will kill the pilot and gas going to heater. So its not venting into the room carbon monoxide DEADLY GAS., Put cover back on flue pipe. Check flu pipe for restrictions or separations and cap bees nest etc. Make sure all intake and area around heater are clean burner inlet air etc. Can be pluged with lint dirt etc. Should be able to do a smoke or match test for a plugged flue on B Vents. The Draft diverter on the back of stove where it conects to the flu on stove should be a opening on the bottom to let room air. Turn on stove high. Let it run for 5 minutes or longer. Light a match and run along the bottom of diverter. Should pull flame in, If it pushes out a way from diverter flue is restricted or came apart. If nat. gas match goes out flue is restricted letting burnt gas by products back in to room Turn on exhaust fans in house doors open to rooms redo smoke match test. Fans could be pulling neg. pressure pulling exhaust back into room. Finial check the inlet gas pressure and the outlet to manifold presure, If the out let to manifold pressure is to high it will over heat the stove and trip the roll out spill switch.. My carbon monoxide detectors did not go off last year had ice built up around cap. I had stove off for 2 days doing room painting. lit stove after 10 min it kicked off.. I run my stove at max in the winter 300 deg f off the top of stove room 80 deg f . never kick off when pilot stay lit all winter to keep flue warm. Also make sure you are replacing spill roll out switch is the right temperature for that stove. I can give you link if you do not have service manual.
 
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See if this is the one you need.
LINK 12821-8-0907 RH-(25,35)-6.indd

Read vent pipe section carefully. Let us know if it help you.
 
Hi Meaty
No the vent safety can not stay jumped it needs to be hooked up. From your description it sounds more like a venting issue. Also it calls for this unit to be vented by itself not in a common vent with another furnace. Call Empire Tech support ask for extention 3346
 
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