Encore 2040c Getting Too Hot Despite Gasket Replacement

[BTSS]

This year I moved into a new house that came with an Encore 2040c stove installed. It was manufactured in 2019, but it looks like the previous owners were rough with it.

I've redone all the gaskets, including the ash pan, doors, griddle, and flue collar.

The issue I’m having is that the stove gets too hot. When I compare its performance to the manufacturer’s information and to YouTube videos, there's a noticeable difference.

Three splits in the stove with the cat engaged and the air at 0%, and I can easily see griddle temps of 600 to 650+.
So seeing the data on here with overnight burns where the griddle temp barely scrapes 450 or 500 and cruses at 300 is amazing to me.

With the bypass closed and the air control at 0%, I still see fast moving yellow flames in the firebox.

I've checked for leaks using the dollar bill test and a stick incense, no leaks that I could find.

I also tested the primary air control flap at the back. It closes fully, and when closed, incense smoke gets pulled into the intake where a blower would be installed, not into the air intake.

At this point, I'm out of ideas about what could be causing this.

Thanks for any advice, this forum has been a great source of information.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

So your description is pretty good. The damper is closed and you cut the air all the way and you still see active flame. You should be able to cut the air all the way back and not see any flames at all.

How tall is your setup and can you describe your stovepipe setup. Are you using 6 or 8 inch.

I have the 2040, great heater

You could be leaking air from the secondary air intake, air is coming in between the refractory. you could try tightening up the damper housing. If the gasket there is bad and the housing is loose then it's not really holding the refractory tight anymore and you can get to much air being drawn in.

 

[BTSS]

I attached a short video of the stove, again this is 0% air, the griddle temp is hitting 700, way hotter than I would like.

 

[BTSS]

So your description is pretty good. The damper is closed and you cut the air all the way and you still see active flame. You should be able to cut the air all the way back and not see any flames at all.

How tall is your setup and can you describe your stovepipe setup. Are you using 6 or 8 inch.

I have the 2040, great heater

You could be leaking air from the secondary air intake, air is coming in between the refractory. you could try tightening up the damper housing. If the gasket there is bad and the housing is loose then it's not really holding the refractory tight anymore and you can get to much air being drawn in.

Stove pipe is the ICC Ultrablack, so it’s double walled, probably 8 in diameter outside and 6in diameter for the inner pipe.

Probably 25 feet almost entirely vertical, I’ve never had issues with draft.

I’ll look into tightening the damper and redoing the gasket there, thanks for the heads up.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I attached a short video of the stove, again this is 0% air, the griddle temp is hitting 700, way hotter than I would like.

Thanks for posting the video. So it looks like you have some control over the stove. The flame is active but not running wild. The flame looks to be retarded to some degree.

Looking at the video I noticed that the door latch is not closed all of the way. The handle should be turned or pointing straight down while yours is cocked in the open position some. Id double check your door, this my be your issue

Let the stove cool and take some pictures of how you did your door gaskets. You may have 2 gaskets overlapping

 

[BTSS]

I think you're right, some gasket is overlapping at the doors near the latch.

 

[bholler]

I think you're right, some gasket is overlapping at the doors near the latch.

View attachment 344818View attachment 344819View attachment 344820View attachment 344821View attachment 344822View attachment 344823

That is not the right griddle gasket. Did you buy oem gaskets?

 

[Woodsplitter67]

The door gasket looks to be the correct size. The issue being on the left door. The gasket stops where the channel stops twords the top where the latch goes

Here's a picture of mine but it's not that good

Take out the gasket and see her w the door closes

 

[BTSS]

That is not the right griddle gasket. Did you buy oem gaskets?

My local hardware store has spools of gasket, I probably grabbed one size too large for the griddle.

 

[Eman85]

Griddle gasket on mine is wrapped in wire mesh and it still takes a beating. Doors I believe are 5/16".

 

[BTSS]

When the damper is closed, there is still a half inch gap in the center.

Something tells me it isn't supposed to be like that.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

When the damper is closed, there is still a half inch gap in the center.

Something tells me it isn't supposed to be like that.

View attachment 344846

So either the damper housing is warped or your missing the damper for gasket. With it being the full length I'd say your missing the entire gasket

 

[bholler]

My local hardware store has spools of gasket, I probably grabbed one size too large for the griddle.

Buy a kit of oem gasket

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Buy a kit of oem gasket

Midwest hearth has a good kit

 

[Eman85]

In the video it looks like the housing is warped. While you have the pipe adapter check the sides of the refractor for ash and creosote from cleanings. I use a vacum down the sides if I have the adapter off. When cleaning the chimney you have to block off that area or it will fill it up.