England 25-PDVC shutsdown after a few seconds...any help appreciated

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CatDaddy

Member
Nov 27, 2014
8
Kansas
Stove was manu'd in 2008

It's been running fine, until the last few days. This shutdown issue started 4 days ago. At first I could try a couple of times, and it would eventually take off and go. Now, it will not do anything.

I have removed the vacuum line, and re-installed it with clamps. I have cleaned every crack and crevice I can reach. I have dismantled the flu, cleaned it, and re-installed it. I am at my wits end, and would like to figure out what is going on, before the really cold weather sets in.

Upon start up, it seems like everything is fine. Then it shuts of. At first it was flashing an E1 code. Now it flashes an E2 sometimes followed by an E1.

I have searched the forum for this, and tried everything suggested, I believe. I even reset the board last night, and changed it over to mode D while double checking the settings for the bottom three buttons. Everything seems to be fine, from that aspect. There was some blockage in the flu, last night, which was removed and completely cleaned out.

About the only thing I have not tried is removing the blower and taking it apart to clean it. That's not something I am really wanting to do.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I just put the stove into diagnostics mode, and everything tested out fine. At this point, I am thinking it is a vacuum issue. The vacuum line seems to be too short. Is there a way for me to test the vacuum?
 
There are two safety switches in this stove, both have tubes connected to them.

Before you do the following, unplug the power to the stove, you don't want to get 110 volts going thro your body.

Find the one on the left and disconnect the wires from the switch and join both wires together, make sure the wires do not touch the stove bodywork when power is reapplied to the stove.

Start up the stove as normal, if the stove fails to work, reconnect the leads to the switch.

Now find the other switch and do the same thing you did with the first one.

The aim here is to find out if the switches are shot.

If the stove still does not work, take both switches out and just join the wires as it is possible that both switches may have failed but very rare.

Also, do the dollar bill test, place a dollar bill in the door so that half of it is outside the stove, when the door is closed see if you can pull the dollar bill out, if you can, the gasket on the door needs to be replaced.
 
Dollar bill test passed.

Disconnected the first switch, and used a paper clip to connect the two connectors, and stove seems to run that way. I am guessing this means I need to replace the switch, on the side wall of the unit. This was the switch I disconnected and bypassed. At least it ran for longer, with no fire in it, than it usually does with a fire started.

Thanks for the reply.
 
OK, inside the stove to the right of the burn chamber there is a small hole, find a thin toothpick and clean out that hole. Reconnect the wires to the switch and see if the stove fires up.

Let us know how it goes.
 
I cleaned that hole out earlier this morning, to no avail. Does it matter if it is done before or after the switch is disconnected?
 
No, I was just getting you to check this just in case it was blocked.

You can run the stove with the switch bypassed with the paper clip (make sure you tape the wires up) until you get a new switch, it will not harm anything, just don't leave the stove unattended in this state, if you plan to be out for more than 60 mins shut the stove down.
 
Thank you. I am ordering the switch now, along with some new vacuum line. Don't like the line that's on it. Seems like it may be the original line and is rather short. Maybe 1/4 inch connected at each switch.
 
Ok, thank you again. I had read about bypassing the switch. Not sure why I didn't try it out. Maybe the cold will hold out long enough for the switch to get here. God bless and Happy Thanksgiving.
 
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