I just installed this stove last week after Christmas. I did the break in fires up to 450 degrees. now I cannot seem to get the stove above 350 or 400 degrees. Today I bought a bundle of gren heat blocks and a moisture meter. I checked my wood some is 20% and some is higher. I lit a fire with the bricks and still no temps above 350 or 375. Our house had a stove previously that I removed. I cleaned the chimney and ordered the Englander. The house is around 1,200 sqft.
Englander 13-nch not heating
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Welcome. This stove will need proper draft and dry wood. The existing chimney may be the issue. Can you describe the flue system in detail from stove top to the chimney cap? Include piping size, elbows, liner size, etc.
The chimney is about 15 ft. straight up. 6 inch single wall pipe to a Selkirk class a double wall pipe, through the attic and roof. About 8' 1/2" to the ceiling, 4' or 5' through the attic and about 3' above the roof. I do believe it is an air issue. I have noticed if I crack the door, like on start up, the fire will flame up and raise in temperature. Our house was built in the 60's, it does have new windows and decent insulation, but I don't believe it is overly tight, I can see a few cracks around doors. Thank you for the quick response.
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The house tightness doesn't sound like it's the issue but you can check by opening a nearby window a crack to see if that improves the fire. If the fire needs the door ajar there's a good chance it's the wood. As a test I would get a couple bundles of store bought firewood to compare. These stoves really want well seasoned wood.
15 ft straight up should work. If the chimney is easy to access and the previous two suggestions show no improvement, I would get a 3 ft piece of cheap duct work pipe, remove the chimney cap, and cram it in the stove pipe crimp end first. The do another test fire and see if there is a dramatic improvement. If so, remove the temp pipe and add more class A chimney and a roof brace.
PS: Was the chimney cleaned? Check the chimney cap screen for clogging while up there.
15 ft straight up should work. If the chimney is easy to access and the previous two suggestions show no improvement, I would get a 3 ft piece of cheap duct work pipe, remove the chimney cap, and cram it in the stove pipe crimp end first. The do another test fire and see if there is a dramatic improvement. If so, remove the temp pipe and add more class A chimney and a roof brace.
PS: Was the chimney cleaned? Check the chimney cap screen for clogging while up there.
I will try both tests. Are the wood fuel blocks comparable to the bundled wood? I did buy those today to try and compare to the wood I have. I cleaned the chimney myself, I did not see a screen on the cap. Will check again. Thanks again and Happy New Year.
The air control on this stove is persnickety, to say the least,
How are you running it?
Welcome to the forums !
How are you running it?
Welcome to the forums !
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