Englander 13-NCH

[Rollieman]

Hi gents, new to the forum and need you help !

Decided on purchasing the Englander 13-NCH wood stove in which I do NOT intend to use for heating the entire house or need to burn through the night.

At 71 It's just too much work for me to use real wood logs so considering either Bio Bricks or getting one of those pellet baskets and burn pellets.

My questions are these:

1. Based on your experience which one of the two options do you think will be the easiest ?

2. Do you know where I can get the brass trim package that goes around the door and the top lip and would you know what that part number is?

3. Do I need to incorporate a damper in the flue pipe, or, does the stove have this?

Thank you, I value your opinion.

Rollieman

 

[begreen]

Welcome. The Englander 13-NC is also sold under the TimberRidge and Summer's Heat brands. The Timber Ridge models often have the brass trim option. The trim package will vary with the store. You can also buy the trim directly from Englander - (broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/timberridge/stove/timber-ridge-1200-1800-sq.-ft.-wood-stove)
I think bio-brick brand bricks will provide the most consistent heat when burned as instructed. Unless the flue system is extra tall there should be no need for a damper in the stove pipe.

 

[Rollieman]

Welcome. The Englander 13-NC is also sold under the TimberRidge and Summer's Heat brands. The Timber Ridge models often have the brass trim option. The trim package will vary with the store. You can also buy the trim directly from Englander - (broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/timberridge/stove/timber-ridge-1200-1800-sq.-ft.-wood-stove)
I think bio-brick brand bricks will provide the most consistent heat when burned as instructed. Unless the flue system is extra tall there should be no need for a damper in the stove pipe.

Thank you very much begreen ----------- that's the exact kind of help I was hoping for, and yes the flue system is quite tall @ an approximate total of 18 feet straight up (4 feet of 6" single wall and then about 12 feet of 10" OD X 6" ID stainless insulated flue pipe. Rollieman

 

[begreen]

18 ft straight up is great. It should draft well.

 

[Dix]

Gents, that's funny !

*She's Back, and raring to go *

The 13 is an awesome heater, watch the bio bricks, they can take off like a rocket in that stove, especially with that draft / flue height. Been there, done that. It wasn't pretty.

My suggestion, slowly collect some firewood, and stock up.

Welcome to the forums

 

[begreen]

Biobricks are ok if burned as directed. Follow the instructions and they slow burn nicely for many hours.
http://originalbiobricks.com/howtoburn

 

[Rollieman]

Gents, that's funny !

*She's Back, and raring to go *

The 13 is an awesome heater, watch the bio bricks, they can take off like a rocket in that stove, especially with that draft / flue height. Been there, done that. It wasn't pretty.

My suggestion, slowly collect some firewood, and stock up.

Welcome to the forums

Thank you Dix ---------- You're not the first person to point that out, and yes this was one of my concerns as I'm getting into this. I agree the firewood is most likely the best route; but, unfortunately that's not a good option for me. Is it safe to say as long as I keep an eye on the flute temperature by controlling the stoves air adjustment and not overloading with too many bricks that I'll be OK with using the bio bricks?

Burning pellets in one of those special baskets seemed interesting, but apparently you have to occasionally move them around to keep them going which I would assume could let some smoke in the room while your doing that ??? and also they have to be 100% hardwood pellets.

Also since you have experience with a Englander 13 --------- one guy reported that the ash collector tray was "useless" is this true?

Thank you again !

 

[begreen]

Biobricks burn best when used as directed. This means creating layers of brick that slow down the burn instead of burning them loose, with lots of air circulation. Pellet baskets work after a fashion but they take up more room for less heat. Not sure why anyone would require hardwood pellets for this use. I prefer softwood pellets and in the west that is all that is usually available.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/biobricks/

 

[Dix]

Thank you Dix ---------- You're not the first person to point that out, and yes this was one of my concerns as I'm getting into this. I agree the firewood is most likely the best route; but, unfortunately that's not a good option for me. Is it safe to say as long as I keep an eye on the flute temperature by controlling the stoves air adjustment and not overloading with too many bricks that I'll be OK with using the bio bricks?

Burning pellets in one of those special baskets seemed interesting, but apparently you have to occasionally move them around to keep them going which I would assume could let some smoke in the room while your doing that ??? and also they have to be 100% hardwood pellets.

Also since you have experience with a Englander 13 --------- one guy reported that the ash collector tray was "useless" is this true?

Thank you again !

My biobrick experience was very short lived, so my experience was very limited. I'd use them in a pinch, but have managed to get myself ahead on firewood for both stoves.

As for the 13, I have never, ever, ever taken that ash pan out. I just shovel the ash into the ash can (you can push 1/2 of your fire base to one side, and scoop ash, respread coals, and relight ), and dump as needed.Usually in the flower beds, on ice in winter, etc. Poor woman's lime