Englander 17-VL loose glass/gasket situation?

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saskwoodburner

Feeling the Heat
Nov 18, 2014
479
Saskatchewan, Canada
Hey guys, maybe one of you other Englander 17 owners can help me out here. Does your stove have one gasket or two, around the door glass. Meaning one to the outside, and one to the inside of the glass, or just one gasket stretched over both inside and outside?

I haven't been cleaning my glass lately, as I've been burning some of the rougher stuff and shed floor chunks and bark, so she's a white mess. I cleaned it about the middle of October, when I started burning. ;emAnyways, I touched the top of the glass because I thought it was making a weird sound when I'd close the door.

Sure enough, it's got some slight play in it. Now, I don't know if tightening the top 2 support bracket screws will fix the problem, or if there should be 2 gaskets, and I never realized.

There was a thread about the Englander wrote up by rob48, and his stove door looked like it had 2 gaskets in the door, so I'm very confused....

I could cinch my top bolts, but I fear cracking the glass and putting my fire machine out of order.

Any thoughts or opinions on this? Could a split bonking the window jar something loose? I noticed the last few days it seems to get roaring pretty good for our temperatures. Nothing over 850 on the flue probe and 600 on the stove front, but that was dialed right back. It doesn't usually run that hard in milder weather. I get the air shut down fairly quick as I don't need much of an inferno to keep the shack warm.
 
From the manual:

5. The new glass panel must be wrapped with
a self‐adhesive fiberglass tape gasket (AC‐
GGK). This gasket serves to cushion the
glass from the cast iron door

That tells ME (anyway) that it's a one-piece gasket.
 
I suppose I could e-mail Englander to get their thoughts on the situation. It's not loose enough to pull smoke from a cigarette in, but maybe when drafting hard? Who knows.
 
Thought I'd bump this to see if anyone else has any thoughts? Is it possible for a glass gasket to be working good enough to seal the stove, yet let air through when drafting hard/hot fire situation? Like hard enough to pull air in but sealed good enough to not let it out. CO monitor has never went off.

How hot should flue temps be while running a decent fire and then throttled back? Should it be in the 600-700 range?
 
I never had mine apart, but I always thought it was a one piece gasket. I'd call Englander about the gasket. Mine liked to cruise in the 550 range.
 
It certainly wasn't hard to get it hotter if I wanted to. For the most part I felt like around 550 was the sweet spot. One thing to keep in mind was I consistently ran the blower so my temps might be a bit lower by comparison.
 
I think I found the issue. It's with the air control arm, well, whatever piece or plate slides inside to regulate the air. It seems there may be a bit much play, letting in too much air. If I lift the rod so to lift whatever is moving inside, it settles the fire incredibly quick. I'll still address the window gasket issue, but I'm positive this is the cause.
 
Forgot to come back for the update. I just had to remove 2 screws, move a plate, and pull the gasket slightly to the inside. Now the window glass appears and feels to be sealed as good at the top as it was at the bottom.

My fire is seemingly more responsive to the air lever now, so I can't help but think it was allowing air in on a hard draft.
 
Replaced mine this year. It's one piece w/ adhesive that you wrap around the edge of the glass and then you fold over the outside and inside portion. I messed up my glass gasket by wiping off my glass too often rubbing the gasket too much. I've learned that a good hot fire pretty much cleans the glass off just fine. Basically as long as the fire isn't smoldering you shouldn't have a dirty glass.
 
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