Englander 25 PDVC E1 Code (not a simple fix!)

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Jan 27, 2014
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Hello forum!
I am writing about my pellet stove, Englander 25 PDVC, which I have loved since I bought it in 2006. Sadly, this entire winter I have had it turn off on me randomly at least once a week and display an E 1 code. Infrequently it will also "hiccup" - wish I could upload the video, but basically the fan will stop blowing for a second, and then it will try to rev up the fan and run normally again. Sometimes the hiccups only occur once, other times it will occur so frequently tbe stove will eventually show either E1 or E2 code. I have checked everything related to the E 1 and E2 code, as discussed on the Englander website, so please don't cut and paste it here again as a suggestion :). When I wrote to Englander about this issue a month ago I was told it could be a combustion blower issue...but how could this be a dead blower if I'm still able to operate the stove? Can it slowly die? And if so, does it pull more electricity? I notice that when the stove "hiccups" the lights on my oven in the kitchen (which runs along the same circuit as the pellet stove) flickers. I know this is somewhat complicated but I appreciate your time and assistance! Liz
 
Can it slowly die? And if so, does it pull more electricity? I notice that when the stove "hiccups" the lights on my oven in the kitchen (which runs along the same circuit as the pellet stove) flickers. I know this is somewhat complicated but I appreciate your time and assistance! Liz
A short perhaps? Check all connections make sure they are tight and making good contact. Make sure the wires aren't grounding out somewhere. Yes a blower can slowly die. The flickering lights are an indication of a short, either in the motor or the wiring. How does the combustion motor sound? Is it loud?
 
I would check your wiring or something else. There is no way your stove is causing your lights to dim unless you have a serious short somewhere in the power cord. There is a 5A fuse that would blow long before your lights would start to dim. I think this is more of an issue you have with very poor quality power into your stove. Your stove is reacting to the poor power and that is what you are noticing.

A few years back, we had an issue where a tree limb fell on our power line coming into the house. The limb ended up only breaking the neutral return wire, not either of the two power feeds. We had a very good ground in the house, so everything continued operating normally for about two or three weeks. Then we started noticing a whole bunch of little issues all over and checked our voltage to find it was pretty low (~100V). The power company fixed the neutral and all was good.

I've also seen power flicker rapidly when the circuit breaker starts going bad. I would have an electrician come in and take a good look at your panel and your power quality.

I highly doubt it's the stove causing your problems.

Good luck!
 
I would check your wiring or something else. There is no way your stove is causing your lights to dim unless you have a serious short somewhere in the power cord. There is a 5A fuse that would blow long before your lights would start to dim. I think this is more of an issue you have with very poor quality power into your stove. Your stove is reacting to the poor power and that is what you are noticing.

A few years back, we had an issue where a tree limb fell on our power line coming into the house. The limb ended up only breaking the neutral return wire, not either of the two power feeds. We had a very good ground in the house, so everything continued operating normally for about two or three weeks. Then we started noticing a whole bunch of little issues all over and checked our voltage to find it was pretty low (~100V). The power company fixed the neutral and all was good.

I've also seen power flicker rapidly when the circuit breaker starts going bad. I would have an electrician come in and take a good look at your panel and your power quality.

I highly doubt it's the stove causing your problems.

Good luck!
To that end, is the stove at least on some sort of surge protection? If at all possible, I'd try running the stove through a UPS. If it's a problem with the house wiring, the ups should keep an even power supply to the stove which should eliminate the "hiccups." If they still occur, then I'd say its something internal to the stove.

Has the combustion motor been removed and cleaned? If its dirty (pet hair / dust bunnies) then it could be overheating and tripping the thermal cutout, but from your description, I doubt that's the problem.

Eric
 
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I would check your wiring or something else. There is no way your stove is causing your lights to dim unless you have a serious short somewhere in the power cord. There is a 5A fuse that would blow long before your lights would start to dim. I think this is more of an issue you have with very poor quality power into your stove. Your stove is reacting to the poor power and that is what you are noticing.

A few years back, we had an issue where a tree limb fell on our power line coming into the house. The limb ended up only breaking the neutral return wire, not either of the two power feeds. We had a very good ground in the house, so everything continued operating normally for about two or three weeks. Then we started noticing a whole bunch of little issues all over and checked our voltage to find it was pretty low (~100V). The power company fixed the neutral and all was good.

I've also seen power flicker rapidly when the circuit breaker starts going bad. I would have an electrician come in and take a good look at your panel and your power quality.

I highly doubt it's the stove causing your problems.

Good luck!

Unless there are a ton of lights on that "oven light" circuit I'm guessing this is not the case. an electrician would load the circuit up with more than a few lights and some outlets in an adjacent room.

For now try this:
Plug an extension cord into an outlet you know is not on the same breaker and run the stove off of it for a bit, see if the problem persists, then get back to us..

My educated guess is a bad board/relay on the stove, or a failing motor. How old is the stove??

Also, I think I've heard of vacuum switches going bad and shutting the motor down (I think)...
 
Plug an extension cord into an outlet you know is not on the same breaker and run the stove off of it for a bit, see if the problem persists, then get back to us..

Excellent suggestion. This isolates any issues with a bad breaker. We had a bad breaker caused by in improper seal at the inlet to the power meter. The water would wick down the main wires and then drip into the panel. We had corrosion on a number of the breaker contacts. The corrosion caused arcing, which heated the contacts severely. The heat caused the contacts to lose their spring force and reduced the connection even further. By the time we figured out the issue, you could hear the arc buzzing inside the panel and the lights would flicker for periods of about 1 or 2 minutes at a time.

With an electrician friend, we ended up killing the power at the meter, removing all of the breakers, cleaning all of the corrosion off, replacing ALL breakers and used conductive grease at the contacts and re-sealed the inlet to the meter. There were several breakers that had burn marks near the contacts due to arcing.

The flickering lights reminds me exactly of the situation that we had. But I'm all for the least expensive solutions first!
 
The flickering lights are the telltale.
If the lights are on a dimmer, changes in load could cause them to flicker, but if they aren't on a dimmer it is most probably a loose connection in the house wiring.
It is unlikely that the stove is causing the problem.. I think that your stove is momentarily losing power.
Electricians don't always get things torqued down properly Even if they do, copper wires will squeeze down over time and connections become loose all by themselves.
Running to stove temporarily on another circuit is a good idea. It will confirm that the stove is or is not at fault. If it confirms that the stove is okay, you have to start going through all of the connections in that circuit looking for a loose one.
If the stove still mis-operates on another circuit, check the power cord and primary connections to the control board.
 
What steps have you taken to rule out vacuum switch and low limit disc?
What is the quality of your flame? When you get the "hiccup" , do you hear a variation in the combustion fan or does the flame quality change? Does the auger stop?
Is the hiccup occurring during start-up or after continuous run? I think I would go with Englander's advice and buy a replacement combustion fan... equipment can fluctuate when failing.

The only other thing I can think of is variation in the actual incoming electric power. We have had variations with ours that have produced a noticeable variation in stove fans. However, when this has occurred, it effects all electrical appliances with noticeable difference in all the lights not just a specific circuit. The only way I found this out is that the neighbor has meters on his power outlets so he can protect his computer equipment.

I'm thinking the oven in the kitchen is supposed to be on a circuit of its own so should not be associated with variation in pellet stove function. You might want to verify that it is on a separate breaker to avoid an electrical fire in the future.
Good luck.
 
Another thing to do is find the associated breaker and touch the face of it, jus beside the handle and see if it is any warmer than the breakers around it.
 
Wow...I didn't expect so many thorough replies! I'm really appreciative, as the support team from Englander couldn't offer me any suggestions. I will try a few of these thoughts on Thursday (my day off and it should warm up to 32 so pipes won't freeze while stove is off) and write then.
Thanks!
 
Wow...I didn't expect so many thorough replies! I'm really appreciative, as the support team from Englander couldn't offer me any suggestions. I will try a few of these thoughts on Thursday (my day off and it should warm up to 32 so pipes won't freeze while stove is off) and write then.
Thanks!

I would try calling Englander, too much lost in translation via email...
 
Hi All,
Thanks again for all of your suggestions. As I was reviewing everything I noticed a very tiny crack in my vacuum hose, so I replaced that and restarted the pellet stove. For the last 30 minutes it's been running well, but I'll be sure to update should it start "hiccuping". I wonder if my stove is getting a little more sensitive as it gets older?
A short perhaps? Check all connections make sure they are tight and making good contact. Make sure the wires aren't grounding out somewhere. Yes a blower can slowly die. The flickering lights are an indication of a short, either in the motor or the wiring. How does the combustion motor sound? Is it loud?
- Thanks mralis. I checked all the connections and they don't appear to be grounding. The combustion motor is very very loud...I think you and others are right, that it's slowly dying. I just called Englander for a replacement.

"I've also seen power flicker rapidly when the circuit breaker starts going bad. I would have an electrician come in and take a good look at your panel and your power quality."
-kofkorn: This could definitely be causing the flickering lights on my stove. I know the circuits in my house are very old...I'm not too happy about the the thought of having an electrician come in to evaluate! I know what they will say!

"To that end, is the stove at least on some sort of surge protection? If at all possible, I'd try running the stove through a UPS. If it's a problem with the house wiring, the ups should keep an even power supply to the stove which should eliminate the "hiccups." If they still occur, then I'd say its something internal to the stove."
-Ericofmaine: The stove is on a surge protector.

"Unless there are a ton of lights on that "oven light" circuit I'm guessing this is not the case. an electrician would load the circuit up with more than a few lights and some outlets in an adjacent room. For now try this:
Plug an extension cord into an outlet you know is not on the same breaker and run the stove off of it for a bit, see if the problem persists, then get back to us... My educated guess is a bad board/relay on the stove, or a failing motor. How old is the stove??Also, I think I've heard of vacuum switches going bad and shutting the motor down (I think)..." "Elimination of a bad breaker" per kofkorn
-Woodporn & Kofkorn: That was actually one of the first things I thought about when I started having issues but when I took it off the circuit it still had issues. The stove has seen me through 6 seasons and to be honest I have been a bad girl...I know you are supposed to remove the exhaust system and clean it out yearly but because it involves removing it from the flue system I haven't done that. All I have done is replaced the gaskets and removed built up ash...perhaps this has led to the combustion motor's slow death?

"If the lights are on a dimmer, changes in load could cause them to flicker, but if they aren't on a dimmer it is most probably a loose connection in the house wiring.
It is unlikely that the stove is causing the problem.. I think that your stove is momentarily losing power.
Electricians don't always get things torqued down properly Even if they do, copper wires will squeeze down over time and connections become loose all by themselves.
Running to stove temporarily on another circuit is a good idea. It will confirm that the stove is or is not at fault. If it confirms that the stove is okay, you have to start going through all of the connections in that circuit looking for a loose one.
If the stove still mis-operates on another circuit, check the power cord and primary connections to the control board."
-Harvey Schneider: The lights on my kitchen stove aren't on a dimmer, but I think you and others are showing me I may have some troubling electrical issues in my house!

"What steps have you taken to rule out vacuum switch and low limit disc? What is the quality of your flame? When you get the "hiccup" , do you hear a variation in the combustion fan or does the flame quality change? Does the auger stop?
Is the hiccup occurring during start-up or after continuous run? I think I would go with Englander's advice and buy a replacement combustion fan... equipment can fluctuate when failing. The only other thing I can think of is variation in the actual incoming electric power. We have had variations with ours that have produced a noticeable variation in stove fans. However, when this has occurred, it effects all electrical appliances with noticeable difference in all the lights not just a specific circuit. The only way I found this out is that the neighbor has meters on his power outlets so he can protect his computer equipment. I'm thinking the oven in the kitchen is supposed to be on a circuit of its own so should not be associated with variation in pellet stove function. You might want to verify that it is on a separate breaker to avoid an electrical fire in the future. "
-Lake Girl: I'm not sure how to rule out a vacuum switch or low limit disc issue. I'm assuming they would both give the same E1 code - do you have suggestions as to how to isolate them? The flame is normal. With the "hiccups" the augers continue but the combustion fan stops. The hiccups can occur with either start-up or with continuous run. You're probably right, in that the kitchen is supposed to be on a circuit of its own...

"Another thing to do is find the associated breaker and touch the face of it, jus beside the handle and see if it is any warmer than the breakers around it."
-WoodPorn: Not warm fortunately!!

Thanks again for all of your help. I'm hunkered down in my 55 degree home until the part can come in :)

Liz
 
Liz, where are you located?
If anywhere near S.MA I'd be happy to look @ the wiring. (I'm licensed in MA)
 
Glad to hear you're heating again! It may have just been the vacuum tube with the crack (and not the combustion blower). Always unplug the stove when working on it. Normal way to trouble shoot the vacuum switch is to remove tube from switch and clean out any ash (just vacuum). Reattach to vacuum switch, disconnect end near combustion fan and suck on tube - should hear a click. Switch is OK.

To trouble shoot the low limit switch (proof of fire) search low limit switch and hair dryer and you'll find the thread;lol Hair dryer is used to heat switch so it will open. You need an ohm meter too. Often when the low limit switch fails, you get a pile of unburned pellets in the burn pot...

Guess we should have had you trouble shoot the combustion blower. When was the last time the combustion blower was pulled and cleaned (make sure you have a spare gasket on hand)?
 
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