I like my 25pdv mfg date 6/04.It burns a light grey/white ash,never any black soot on the window glass,just the light grey ash.Pellet consumption is about 40 lbs.per 16 hours on higher settings(5-7)and I can get 24 hours on the low settings(1-2)My problem is that after 6-8 hours of burning on the higher setting I have a burn pot full of black/partially burned pellets.The flame height is still normal with good heat output,but I am not getting combustion of the pellets.Is this normal and just the nature of this stove?Or is there something I can do to eliminate this problem?I read on other posts to this forum about the bottom three buttons on the control panel.I checked and mine are 6-9-1 left to right,but if I understand correctly those setting only effect the low (1-2) settings.Any help would be greatly appreciated,Thanks.
ENGLANDER 25PDV QUESTION??
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sounds like an air issue , could you describe to me your pipe hookup for the exhaust and intake air?
I have the same stove with the same problem. I have read on here of others having this problem. Is there a problem with this stove? Mine does make the glass black from time to time. Not real happy with this stove.
steve50 said:
same issue , same questions asked. i can likely help but i need to know what specifically im dealing with
I have the outside air hooked up and I have the stove in the corner with 1 90 and then out thewall and up 3ft
ok, cool, how long has it been in? also is yours losing it predominantly on higher heat ranges and doing ok on lower?
put in about 2 months ago. seems to do it on higher seetings or if it runs for a long time on lower
Mike,my stove is vented with about a for foot rise from the outlet,through a 90, and then about two feet horizontally into a masonry chimney.I know not as directed but as good as I can get right now as we are renters.The air intake is through steel tubing,same size as the outside diameter of the one on the stove,straight back eighteen inches to a 90 and then about another twenty inches straight.Yes it is worse on the higher settings and on long runs at the lower ones. Since new the induction blower has been loud until it warms up,I have removed it each season and cleaned it,the bearings seem smooth and not binding.I want to check the motor rpm but have not gotten around to it.I know that the masonry vent is not recomended,but all that I can do at this time.It is in good condition and clean,as i check and clean it.I disconnect and clean the exhaust pipe about once a month and there is usually not much in it,just some ash at the T fitting hooked to the exhaust outlet. I thought the chimney would be okay as it worked well on a regular wood stove the owners had installed.Does the pellet stove require more draft than a wood stove? Thank You for the help.
ok some things to check:
window/door gaskets , take a lighter or candle around the glass and the door with the stove running but not lit yet watch the flame, if its leaking the flame will pull to the leak.
remove the impingement plate (baffle) check the cleanout port located on the back wall of the unit also check to ensure the burn pot is tight against the rear wall
checking the flue is good , but also as ROD posted above , check the outlet on the combustion blower you can load up there too
in the burn pot , check to ensure that the wear plate (grate) sets flush and doesnt allow air out around it.
window/door gaskets , take a lighter or candle around the glass and the door with the stove running but not lit yet watch the flame, if its leaking the flame will pull to the leak.
remove the impingement plate (baffle) check the cleanout port located on the back wall of the unit also check to ensure the burn pot is tight against the rear wall
checking the flue is good , but also as ROD posted above , check the outlet on the combustion blower you can load up there too
in the burn pot , check to ensure that the wear plate (grate) sets flush and doesnt allow air out around it.
Hi Mike. I have checked all this before and have talked to your service dept several times. I just feel like I should not have purchased this stove. Sorry. But my friend purchased a Harman and has had no problems with it. I know they are more money but. Just feel that when you purchase something new you don't expect to work on it all the time to try and get it to work. It's been one thing after another. The wire running from the exhust blower was too close to the frame and shorted. It took out the main board. It has never burned the correct way, it has always made the door black and has a burn pot full of black pellets. I guess I will deal with it the balance of this winter and then try to sell it this spring. Thanks
sometimes it it ok and other times not. most of the time it does make the glass black. also does not seem to make good heat as others say there unit does.
If mike or someone is around, i purchased my stove back in november, and when my heat settings are kept low, i get a loud screeching noise from the like ametal rubbing from where the pellets come out of the auger i guess u would say, the hotter the setting i make it, the less screeching it makes, dont get me wrong the stove works great, just something i hear now everytime cause i think about, otherwise i wouldnt even notice
I got my my 25-pdvc in October and it was occasionally noisy and increasingly so. I thought I was cleaning and following the manufacturers instructions to the letter. I saw a post about chronic problem carbon buildup auger next to the burn pot so I checked mine out at my daily cleaning. By chance the auger flute stopped in the carboned area and it was bound. I chipped away the carbon accumulated after burning over a ton of pellets. No more noise.
HD41 hit it before i could post it , man , i need to hire you guys! carbon buildup will lift the nose of the auger and cause it to drag across the top of the tube, this is easily remedied as HD explained, it should be checked when you do your "plates off cleaning and removed so that the free floating auger can more smoothly travel in the tube , makes for much less noise and also less stress on the auger motor. most premature auger motor issues i see are generally caused by this not being addressed, folks just ignore the noise and let it build until it works the motor to death. if its addressed regularly , the motors will last for years, heck i have 1990 model units still in the field that still have all the origional motors and blowers in them, why? because they are well cared for. removal of the buildup literally takes a minute or two at most and is not a difficult job, usually it just flakes up when its scraped with a screwdriver. another thougfht , i have a house full of girls, with that i have a neverending supply of emery boards, i make the girls drop them in a cup i keep on the mantle above the stove, when i clean my unit out , i grab one and slide it between the auger and the sleeve and work it back and forth a few times, and bingo , no more carbon.
Didn't mean to steal your thunder, Thanks for the compliment Mike but I am not that good and I had allowed myself to be led astray. I previously made a cursory cleaning of this area with an emery board just as the excellent ESW instructions/video advise and had ruled this out as a problem or source of noise. I'm sure you know clearance varies depending on where the auger stops. I previously noted a post on feeding graphite through the unit and another where a user mixed cooking oil with corn to suppress the dust. I thought I had some success in quieting the noise by putting a shot of cooking oil on the pellets in the center of the hopper but the noise came back with the next bag. Cleaning the carbon properly solved my noise problem!
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