Englander 25pdvc baffle plate

[orangecrushcj7]

This is a tough one to describe. I was just reading thru the error codes section on the ESW website, and it stated:

an improperly positioned baffle plate which would allow exhaust to bypass the top of the heat exchanger, i.e.. If the baffle plate is not positioned flat against the back wall of the firebox at the bottom allowing the fire to get behind it, (this would cause higher exhaust temperatures that could damage the vacuum hose or cause vacuum loss due to lack of air density (the hotter air gets the less dense it becomes, this makes it much harder to sustain vacuum pressure)).

I have noticed when cleaning my stove that the baffle plate has some "play" in it. It slips into the two tabs on the bottom, and then the hook peice (approx 2" long, welded on 1/4"x1/4" steel angle) on the back of the plate engages with the lip of the heat exchanger opening. It then hangs forward on the hook about 1/4" away from the back wall. I can push the plate back, but then it falls forward the 1/4" or so. I thought this was normal, until reading the error code page. (I don't have any error codes, I was just reading for the sake of it) Do I need to correct this, by maybe shimming under the front of the stove so that the baffle plate leans back and rests on the rear wall of the firebox, or is it supposed to lean forward and be retained by the hook?

 

[skeetska]

I have the same thing with my stove, i ask englander and they said it's normal. when i start the stove i can hear the plate pull back.

 

[Forcelee]

I was getting an E-1 code and thought it might be the baffle plate. My plate is snug against the heat exchanger. There is a little play but I would not say it's 1/4 inch.

 

[piscassic]

is the baffle plate installed backward? i've got mine so that the "tab" or "hook" faces out, toward the front of the stove, and the angled top of the plate faces the same way. sits in there pretty tight as such.

 

[orangecrushcj7]

piscassic,
i think you are refering to the handle used for removing the baffle. the hook i am referring to is on the back.

 

[piscassic]

oops...didn't realize there was anything on the back (haven't yet taken it out since i've only burned a few days thus far).

 

[Panhandler]

oops...didn't realize there was anything on the back (haven't yet taken it out since i've only burned a few days thus far).

When the time comes, make sure you give the area behind the baffle plate a good vacuuming. I use a piece of garden hose in the end of shop vac to get all the ash down inside this area.

 

[piscassic]

now i know what the tube that came with my ash vac is for...thanks, will do.

 

[scruffy]

I have a 55SHP-22 Englander and my first one wouldn't put out any heat. Returned it and still can't figure out why it didn't work.

Talked to tech support several time and the baffle plate is supposed to fit in the tabs at the back of the burn pot and lean forward and touch the heat exchanger, which gives you an angled gap behind the plate. the earlier Englanders had a hook on the back of the baffle plate which hung them againist the back wall. The new ones lean forward.

The new stove works fine and I'm learning the air / feed setting to tweek in the best burn. I'm using Pennington pellets and find that they produce more ash then I extpected, but that may be my settings.

I also don't filter the finds, the stove seems to handle them without any problems. I've burned about 6 bags this season so far and liking the warm temps. Not freezing like last year, with the thermo turned down.

 

[sydney1963]

My baffle plate has, I would say, a quarter inch of play in it also. I'm guessing it's normal. I've had it out and vacuumed in behind just where I can see, never gone deeper than that but have only burned 5 bags of pellets too.

 

[pelletizer]

I tweaked the tabs on mine to get tighter fit but it still has some play no big deal I guess.

Last night I was watching the fire and thought how plain looking the baffle plate was.

It would not be to hard to make a new one with some fancy design on it maybe pine trees or pellet pigs! you know like some of the more expensive stoves have. I am surprised Englander stove works does not sell one.

 

[orangecrushcj7]

So it looks like my baffle plate is ok the way it is. I thought that my floor being unlevel had a bad effect on it.

 

[sydney1963]

Actually before the first fire every time someone walked across the floor it rattled back and forth but since first fire doesn't do that anymore.

 

[pelletizer]

Before my first fire I found my self at lowes or home depot checking out floor models to compare to my stove just to be sure all was ok with mine.
Have any of you ever adjusted the plate at the bottom of the hopper?

 

[sydney1963]

No, I haven't and didn't even know it adjusted.

 

[pelletizer]

I think it does I think there are two bolts holding it and it can be slid open and closed, I am going to let my stove run out of pellets tonight in order to fill up with a new bag of penningtons so I will check it out.

 

[piscassic]

i found that some long pellets (pennington) were getting hung up on the way to the top auger, so i just took the hopper plate right out and lowered the LFF by 1. seems to be working well now.

 

[orangecrushcj7]

Hey Mike Holton... I see you just posted a few replies on some other posts, and was hoping you could weigh in on this.... hopefully you'll see it

Thanks!

 

[stoveguy2esw]

im coming... patience...lol

baffle plates, the pdvc baffle hangs on the back wall, a lot of them have a bit of play where they hang , thats not going to cause an issue. as for the "E-1" statement, there is a possibility if the baffle is off center exposing a large enough gap to the side of the plate into the cleanout behind it, you will have higher temps in your exhaust (due to bypassing the heat exchange pathway giving a straight shot to the exhaust chamber) this can "cook" the vacuum hose for the flue blockage switch. this can cause the hose to develop a crack and lose vacuum pressure. if the crack becomes large enough it can cause the vacuum switch to open hence causing the stove to read a blocked flue (or vacuum loss) which will cause a shutdown with an E-1.

the pdv plate , sits on the back of the burn pot and inclines forward and rests against the front of the stove above the door. this model would be less succeptable to the "cooked hose" scenario i explained above as the cleanout is close to the top of the heat exchanger so you wouldnt lose as much heat through the exhaust.

 

[orangecrushcj7]

Thank you Mike!

 

[sydney1963]

Thanks! Love the stove.

 

[pelletizer]

Would a off center plate possibly be the cause of some people claiming not to get any heat out of these models?


Sydney why have you turned into a popcorn eating cat no more pooh?

 

[sydney1963]

I have posted so many times I feel like I'm at the movies. Might as well have some corn. LOL

 

[pelletizer]

Ahh I guess you are no an official "Pellet Pig"

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Would a off center plate possibly be the cause of some people claiming not to get any heat out of these models?


Sydney why have you turned into a popcorn eating cat no more pooh?

an off centered baffle could result in loss of heat. especially in the pdvc