My first year with the NC-30.. tonight is the first lower 30's degree night and the draft is way better. The air control is almost closed and the stove isnt even up to temperature the wood is a blaze.
Englander 30....Having Trouble Burning...How Does it Work?!?!? Is it Getting Enough Air? (Noob)
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fossil said:
Agreed. But if the reading is accurate (and with a new thermometer that may be debatable) it can be a sign that secondary combustion is poor and that the stove is not burning in a balanced fashion. I would be looking for the flue temps to be in the 500-600F range.
Dix
Minister of Fire
Dix
Minister of Fire
Erins had a hard time with draft in the 13, until tonight.
We're going down to 35F at least.
She's cruising at 550F. Draft could be a big player.
We're going down to 35F at least.
She's cruising at 550F. Draft could be a big player.
Maple man
Burning Hunk
you have to start a small hot fire to warm the flue then put wood n/s or e/w what ever you prefer maks shore there in nothing blocking the chimny
Since we mostly agree on the surface temp to be half of the internal temp (as tested and confirmed by Hearth members) 500-600 is a tad low dont you think?BeGreen said:
leeave96
Minister of Fire
I struggled with my 30-NCH, but things are going very well now. My major probem was a leak in my flue pipe connection to the chimney. Fixed that, set the damper to whatever it takes to maintain a 550ish fire min and life is very good with the Englander.
When I start my fires, I set two splits N/S on either side of the doghouse, fill the gap with some bunched-up newspaper and put some kinding over top of them E/W and let it rip. Once things get rolling, I rake the kindling N/S and load the stove from there. If you read some of my posts, I tried all sorts of ways to burn this stove, but in the end, it's as simple as setting the damper to maintain 550ish min temps and I got a nice no smoke out the chimney burn. As the temperatures have dropped, my draft improves and with that, I can damper down a bit further - but not all the way closed.
Good luck,
Bill
When I start my fires, I set two splits N/S on either side of the doghouse, fill the gap with some bunched-up newspaper and put some kinding over top of them E/W and let it rip. Once things get rolling, I rake the kindling N/S and load the stove from there. If you read some of my posts, I tried all sorts of ways to burn this stove, but in the end, it's as simple as setting the damper to maintain 550ish min temps and I got a nice no smoke out the chimney burn. As the temperatures have dropped, my draft improves and with that, I can damper down a bit further - but not all the way closed.
Good luck,
Bill
leeave96 said:
Bill,
I am just getting to know my 30. When you say you try to maintain "550ish min temps", where are you taking that temperature? On the stovetop?
Thanks
Another Bill
leeave96
Minister of Fire
wmarazita said:
I am taking the temperature on the top lower surface, centered at the edge of the step with a surface thermometer.
Good luck,
Bill
****UPDATE
Since this thread has come back to life I figured I would provide an update over the past month. The things I've learned.....and what was basically said by other members.
1. The stove does not perform idealy above 40 degrees. Above 40 it works well enough but you're going to need smaller splits and very dry wood for a real hot fire.
2. This stove likes dry wood. My wood was not ideal at 22-25%. I put about a half of a cord in the basement and pointed 4 fans at it with the dehumidifier blastiing. Over the past month the moisture content has gone down in the middle a few percent and the ends of the splits have small cracks typical to seasoned wood. Its burning better now than it was a month ago even at equal temps.
3. My outside air kit was not a problem. Hooked up or left disconnected the stove works the same.
My only complaint now is burn times. After a full reload I probably have about 6 hours before the coals diminish to the point where starting a new fire with kindling is too difficult. This is probably because my larger pieces of wood are too wet and I haven't been using them. The smaller to medium sized splits just don't last long enough. I'm sure with very dry wood this would only improve.
If money were not an object and I could do things over I would probably go with a catylitic stove or a more "user-friendly" stove but the $600 price tag for the NC-30 was just too good to pass up. The NC-30 is a "better-than-average" stove but isn't very forgiving when it comes to less than ideal conditions. It takes more user intervention also to maintain a good fire than many other high end stoves, but it is definetely a good value for the price.
Since this thread has come back to life I figured I would provide an update over the past month. The things I've learned.....and what was basically said by other members.
1. The stove does not perform idealy above 40 degrees. Above 40 it works well enough but you're going to need smaller splits and very dry wood for a real hot fire.
2. This stove likes dry wood. My wood was not ideal at 22-25%. I put about a half of a cord in the basement and pointed 4 fans at it with the dehumidifier blastiing. Over the past month the moisture content has gone down in the middle a few percent and the ends of the splits have small cracks typical to seasoned wood. Its burning better now than it was a month ago even at equal temps.
3. My outside air kit was not a problem. Hooked up or left disconnected the stove works the same.
My only complaint now is burn times. After a full reload I probably have about 6 hours before the coals diminish to the point where starting a new fire with kindling is too difficult. This is probably because my larger pieces of wood are too wet and I haven't been using them. The smaller to medium sized splits just don't last long enough. I'm sure with very dry wood this would only improve.
If money were not an object and I could do things over I would probably go with a catylitic stove or a more "user-friendly" stove but the $600 price tag for the NC-30 was just too good to pass up. The NC-30 is a "better-than-average" stove but isn't very forgiving when it comes to less than ideal conditions. It takes more user intervention also to maintain a good fire than many other high end stoves, but it is definetely a good value for the price.
Burnit13, I dont agree with you on the user friendly comment, all these new stoves like dry wood,(your 22 to25% wood was not that bad at all), you have a good stove and over time I think you come to that conclusion also.
I agree on the moisture percentage. 22-25% is the borderline for this stove. Any more moisture is just not going to work well at all, under 20% will work very well, and under 15% will work great.
If you are dealing with 25% moisture wood and 50 degree outside temps you're in for a tough go. You'd need to pour gas on it to get it burning.
If you are dealing with 25% moisture wood and 50 degree outside temps you're in for a tough go. You'd need to pour gas on it to get it burning.
Small correction the word "above" for "below" 40.
You will find an extreme difference in operation once you get your larger splits under 20% in the middle.
I use 2x2 or so splits for the middle temps we have now about 1/2 doz. cross stacked. This gets the stove up to cruising temp quickly ( 500-600 middle of step in top, magnetic rutland gauge) and gives me a bed of coals to put 3 apx 4x4 splits on for overnight. Currently only using Silver Maple. I leave about 5-6am and get home about 12 hours later. Before I leave I put 6 of the apx 4x4 splits in, get her cruising, damp her down and take off. There are enough coals in the back ( I rake forward to restart on my return) Outside temps have been all over the map the past month.
You will find an extreme difference in operation once you get your larger splits under 20% in the middle.
I use 2x2 or so splits for the middle temps we have now about 1/2 doz. cross stacked. This gets the stove up to cruising temp quickly ( 500-600 middle of step in top, magnetic rutland gauge) and gives me a bed of coals to put 3 apx 4x4 splits on for overnight. Currently only using Silver Maple. I leave about 5-6am and get home about 12 hours later. Before I leave I put 6 of the apx 4x4 splits in, get her cruising, damp her down and take off. There are enough coals in the back ( I rake forward to restart on my return) Outside temps have been all over the map the past month.
leeave96
Minister of Fire
BurnIt13 said:****UPDATE
Since this thread has come back to life I figured I would provide an update over the past month. The things I've learned.....and what was basically said by other members.
1. The stove does not perform ideal below 40 degrees. Obove 40 it works well enough but you're going to need smaller splits and very dry wood for a real hot fire.
2. This stove likes dry wood. My wood was not ideal at 22-25%. I put about a half of a cord in the basement and pointed 4 fans at it with the dehumidifier blastiing. Over the past month the moisture content has gone down in the middle a few percent and the ends of the splits have small cracks typical to seasoned wood. Its burning better now than it was a month ago even at equal temps.
3. My outside air kit was not a problem. Hooked up or left disconnected the stove works the same.
My only complaint now is burn times. After a full reload I probably have about 6 hours before the coals diminish to the point where starting a new fire with kindling is too difficult. This is probably because my larger pieces of wood are too wet and I haven't been using them. The smaller to medium sized splits just don't last long enough. I'm sure with very dry wood this would only improve.
If money were not an object and I could do things over I would probably go with a catylitic stove or a more "user-friendly" stove but the $600 price tag for the NC-30 was just too good to pass up. The NC-30 is a "better-than-average" stove but isn't very forgiving when it comes to less than ideal conditions. It takes more user intervention also to maintain a good fire than many other high end stoves, but it is definetely a good value for the price.
Give it some time - it will settle out for you. I am 2 for 2 on these EPA stoves in terms of installing the things and chewing nails at their performance or other aspects of them during the first few months of use. My 30-NCH is doing a beautiful job now and am very happy with it. If you have moist wood, it doesn't really matter what stove your are burning (I'm burning a cat and a non-cat stove at the same time as the temps plunge). As far as simplicity, I really see no difference between the two. One thing I really like about the Englander, is it is a very tough stove. I'm not so worried about banging the side or bottom if I drop a piece of wood, but what I especially like is how quickly I can get a fire going with intense heat in sort order.
You got a great stove, so like I did, start looking at other factors that could be making the difference in your burn. You'll find it.
BTW, my 30 burns better as the temps fall - stronger draft.
Good luck,
Bill
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